Appendix A
PROFESSIONAL MAKE-UP PRODUCTS
EQUIVALENCY CHARTS
The one basic factor that separates professional make-up foundations, shadings, countershadings, cheekcolors, and lipcolors from their commercial, or even theatrical, counterparts is accurate consistency of shades and colors. With commercial and theatrical make-ups, exact day-to-day color matching does not have the importance that mediums of the screen demand, as the former are only seen in person for that day, while the latter require day-to- day constants in tonality. Skin testing is a necessity to maintain exact color matches for all professional make-up materials. However, shades of make-up with either the exact names or for similar uses do vary somewhat from manufacturer to manufacturer, depending upon their assessment of values for specific purposes. Actual screen tests are the final method of determination, so that equivalency charts are approximations of the color or shade value as they are expected to appear on screen under normal lighting conditions rather than the same number or name of the shade.
It is not practical to simplify the multitude of foundations made by various manufacturers of professional products in a basic comparison chart so we shall only show some former Max Factor numbers that were quite familiar in the field to the current approximate RCMA equivalents. We shall then list the recommendations of the other two leading professional cosmetics for screen/theater use, and a listing of a theatrical make-up firm as well. The futility of matching printing inks with how foundations appear either in the container or how differently on the skin precludes professional manufacturers from attempting to make commercial color charts as exact comparatives but only for advertising purposes in brochures and such.
| RCMA | MAX FACTOR |
| KW-1 | CTV-2W |
| KW-2 | CTV-3W |
| KW-3 | Olive or CTV-4W |
| KW-4 | Deep Olive or CTV-5W |
| KW-5 | 725 A |
| KW-6 | 725 B |
| KW-7 | 725 BC |
| KW-8 | 725 CN |
| KM-1 | CTV-6W |
| KM-2 | CTV-7W |
| KM-3 | CTV-8W |
| KM-5 | 725 EN |
| KM-36 | 665-G |
| KM-37 | 665-1 |
| KN-3 | 665-0 |
| KN-4 | 665-P |
| KM-8 | 665-L |
| F-2 | Fair |
| K-l | K-l |
| K-2 | K-2 or 665-J |
| K-3 | 665-K |
| KN-5 | Eddie Leonard (Pancake shade) |
| KN-6 | Negro 1 |
| KN-7 | Negro 2 or 665-R |
| KT-3 | Light Egyptian |
| KT-34 | Dark Egyptian |
| KT-4 | Tahitian |
| RJ-2 | KF-7 (Pancake shade) |
| KW4M3 | Golden Tan |
| KW-38 | Natural Tan |
The futility of marching printing inks with how foundations appear either in the container or how differently on the skin precludes professional manufacturers from attempting to make commercial color charts as exact com- paratives but only for advertising purposes in brochures and such.
CUSTOM COLOR COSMETICS BY WILLIAM TUTTLE
An Academy Award, 20 years as head of the make-up department at MGM, and over 400 feature film credits have distinguished William Tuttle in the field of make-up artistry. His line of cosmetics, albeit limited to basic straight make-up materials, has been designed for professional use. His personal preferences in average situations are as follows (Light to Dark):
WOMEN
| NORMAL | TAN EFFECT |
| Medium Beige | Suntone |
| Deep Olive | Natural Tan |
| Medium-Dark | Tawny Tan |
| Beige | Tan-del-Ann |
MEN
| NORMAL | TAN EFFECT |
| Dark Beige | Desert Tan |
| Natural Tan | Xtra Dark Tan |
| Tan | K-l |
| Jan Tan | |
NEGROES
(MEN AND WOMEN)
All colors from Toasted Honey through Ebony
These recommendations are interchangeable for film or tape, although for live television or talk shows one shade deeper than the norm is employed due to the overall set lighting that is flatter than for normal production lighting.
COLOR FOUNDATIONS
| Ivory | Warm Tan |
| Truly Beige | Tan-del-Ann |
| Fair & Warmer | Tawny Tan |
| Light Peach | Fern Tan |
| Pink ’n’ Pretty | Bronze Tone |
| Peach | Jan Tan |
| Rose Medium | TNT |
| Light Beige | Light-Medium |
| Light-Medium Beige | Peach |
| Medium Beige | Deb-Tan |
| Medium Dark Beige | Suntone |
| Bronze | Medium |
| Tan | Beige Tan II |
| Xtra Dark Tan | Shibui |
| Hot Chocolate | Deep Olive |
| Sumatra | Chinese I |
| N-1 | Chinese II |
| Natural Tan | Western Indian |
| Dark Beige | Tawn-Shee |
| Toasted Honey | BT6 |
| Cafe Ole | BT7 |
| Rahma | 11019 (Dark Tawny |
| Bronze | Tan) |
| Natural Tan | K-1 |
| Chocolate Cream | Hi-Yeller |
| Tan Tone | Tan |
| CTV-8W | Ebony |
| BT5 | Desert Tan |
CORRECTIVE CONTOURING
Special Hi-Lite (For erasing circles under eyes)
Hi-Lite (For contouring)
Shadow I (For contouring)
Shadow II (Darker than Shadow I)
Blusher
Tan Rouge (Used with dark foundations)
Sunburn Stipple (For an outdoor look)
Red-out (For erasing darkened areas)
CTV Rouge
Mauve Blusher
Persimmon Piquant
007
20-30-40 Eye Shadow
CoCo Bare
O-Dee
Frosted Eye Shadow Duos
Chamois/Burnt Spice
Pearl Blue/Caribbean Blue
PROFESSIONAL PENCILS
| Black | Light Brown |
| Charcoal Grey | Auburn |
| Midnight Brown | Taupe |
| Dark Brown | Beige |
| Medium Brown |
LIP ESSENTIALS
Mango Mist
Lip Glosses
Ming Coral
Bacchante Brown
Castiliana Red
SKIN CARE ESSENTIALS
Cleansing Lotion (Dry and Normal Skin)
Freshener (Dry Skin)
Freshener (Normal Skin)
Oily Skin Cleanser
Oily Skin Astringent
Moisturizer (Dry and Normal Skin)
Skin Conditioner (Very Dry Skin)
Facial Scrub (All Skin Types)
Sun Screen Moisturizing Lotion
Also, Extra Fine Translucent Powder and Prosthetic Make-up can be had on special order to match any listed color.
CREME CHEEK ROUGE
DRY CHEEK ROUGE
| Red | Red | |
| Dusty Rose | Raspberry | |
| Raspberry | Coral | |
| Dark Tech | Dark Tech | |
| Coral | ||
| Blush Coral | ||
| CHEEK BLUSHERS | CREME HIGHLIGHT | |
| Dusty Pink | Extra Lite | |
| Nectar Peach | Medium | |
| Golden Amber | Deep | |
| CREME BROWN | FACE POWDER | |
| SHADOW | ||
| #40 Character | Translucent | |
| (Purple-Brown) | Coco Tan (For dark | |
| 42 Medium | skins) | |
| (Brown) | Special White | |
| 43 Dark (Warm | (Clowns) | |
| Dark Brown) | ||
| 44 Extra Dark | ||
| (Rich Dark Brown) |
LIPSTICK
| #1 Lip Gloss | 9 Plum |
| 3 Coral | 10 Bordeaux |
| 5 Garnet | 12 Natural Brown |
| 6 Plum Pink | 14 True Red |
| 7 Natural | 15 Siren Red |
| 8 Cranberry |
PRESSED EYESHADOW
| Toast | Navy Blue |
| Silver | Rust |
| Lavender-Mist | Gold Leaf |
| Plum | Iridescent Taupe |
| Burgundy | Dark Brown |
CAKE EYELINER
| Black | Blue |
| Brown-Black | Iridescent Turquoise |
| Brown | Green |
| Plum | Iridescent Green |
| Silver | Iridescent White |
PEARL SHEEN LINERS
| White | Bronze |
| Green | Copper |
| Turquoise | Mango |
| Royal Blue | Dusty Rose |
| Sapphire | Cabernet |
| Shimmering Lilac | Rose |
| Ultra Violet | Brown |
| Amethyst | Walnut |
| Gold | Charcoal |
BEN NYE MAKE-UP
Ben Nye was the director of make-up for 20th Century Fox for many years, and his makeup line is a reflection of his high standards of artistic quality. Now operated in Los Angeles by his son, Dana, this firm has an extensive list of products for use in screen makeup as well as being the leading supplier to college drama and visual arts departments around the country.
For the screen, Dana Nye recommends N-3, Deep Olive, N-6, and T-1 for Caucasoid women and M-1, M-2, M-3, Y-3, and M-5 for men. The most popular Negroid shades are 27, 28, and Dark Coco. In the N series, N-1 is the fairest for light complexions.
CREME-CAKE FOUNDATIONS
White
Black
Ultra Fair
Old Age
Bronzetone
Dark Coco
Tan Series: Natural Tan colors
| T-1 Golden Tan | T-2 Bronze Tan |
Twenty Series for Asians, Latins, and Negroids
| 22 Golden Beige | White |
| 23 Fawn | Forest Green |
| 24 Honey | Green |
| 25 Amber Lite | Yellow |
| 26 Amber | Orange |
| 27 Coco Tan | Sunburn Stipple |
| 28 Cinnamon | |
| 29 Blush Sable | |
| 30 Ebony |
L Series: Lighter value shades
L-1 Juvenile Female
L-2 Light Beige
L-3 Rose Beige
L-4 Medium Beige
L-5 Tan-Rose
Y Series: Olive skin tones
Y-3 Medium Olive
Y-5 Deep Olive Tan
American Indian Series
I-1 Golden Copper
I-3 Bronze
I-5 Dark Bronze
Mexican Series: Olive brown tones
MX-1 Olive Brown
MX-3 Ruddy Brown
Natural Series
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
Deep Olive
M Series: Medium warm brown tones
M-1 Juvenile Male
M-2 Light Suntone
M-3 Medium Tan
M-4 Deep Suntone
M-5 Desert Tan
CREME LINING COLORS
| Dark Sunburn | Gray |
| Fire Red | Beard Stipple |
| Blood Red | Black |
| Maroon | White |
| Misty Violet | Forest Green |
| Purple | Green |
| Blue | Yellow |
| Sky Blue | Orange |
| Blue-Gray | Sunburn Stipple |
COLOR LINING PENCILS
| Red | Iridescent Violet |
| Maroon | Iridescent Blue |
| Rust | Iridescent Green |
| Violet | Gold |
| Blue | Silver |
| Green | White |
EYEBROW PENCILS
| Light Brown | Dark Brown |
| Auburn | Charcoal Gray |
| Medium Brown | Midnite Brown |
| Black |
Mellow Yellow (To mute redness)
Five O’Sharp (Beard cover in Olive and Ruddy)
Clown White
Nose and Scar Wax
Mascara (creme) (In Black and Brown)
Silver Hair Gray
Custom Flat Brushes (Synthetic Bristle) #2, 3, 5, 7, 10, and 12
Sable Brushes (Round) #1 and 2
Dry Rouge, Lipstick (Retractable), and Powder Brushes
Latex Foam Sponges, Nylon Stipple Sponges, and Velour Powder Puffs
Crepe Hair in White, Blond, Light Brown, Auburn, Medium Brown, Dark Brown, Light Gray, Medium Gray, Dark Gray, and Black
Liquid Latex (Casting)
Spirit Gum
Stage Blood
Make-up Remover
Brush Cleaner
Ben Nye also furnishes student make-up kits for individuals in the following:
| White Female | Olive Male |
| White Male | Black Medium |
| Olive Female | Brown |
| Black Dark Brown |
Each kit contains three foundations plus an assortment of cream rouges, highlights, shadows and lining colors, silver hair gray, natural lipcolor, nose and scar wax, make-up remover, translucent face powder, two custom flat brushes, two pencils, dry rouge and brush, stipple sponge, powder puff, latex sponge, and spirit gum. This is the best-buy kit for student make-up in its field and far better than others offered by some competing theatrical manufacturers.
STEIN’S MAKE UP
Since 1883, the M. Stein Cosmetic Company has been making theatrical make-up for both amateurs and professionals. Many items have been on their lists for years, and they still will supply both the old stick greasepaint, soft tube greasepaint, colored face powders, liquid make-up, stick liners, and other classic items.
GREASEPAINT
(Cardboard Tube)
| 1 Pink | 14 Gypsy |
| 2 Pale Juvenile | 15 Othello-Moor |
| 3 Juvenile | 16 Chinese |
| 4 Juv. Flesh | 14 Amer. Indian |
| Auguste | 18 Carmine (red) |
| 5 Dpr. Flesh Clown | 19 Negro |
| 5L. Ivory Yellow | 20 East Indian |
| 6 Robust-Juvenile | 21 Vermilion |
| 7 Light Sunburn | 22 White |
| 8 Dark Sunburn | 23 Yellow |
| 9 Cream Sallow | 24 Brown |
| 10 Middle Age | 25 Black |
| 11 Sallow Old Man | 26 Japanese |
| 12 Robust Old Man | 27 Cinema Yellow |
| 13 Olive | 28 Cinema Orange |
| 13L. Red Brown |
LIQUID MAKE-UP
(Plastic Bottles, Water Soluble)
| 2 Pink Natural | 15 White |
| 3 Flesh | 16 Negro Brown |
| 5½ Orange | 17 Black |
| 6 Tan | 17½ Green |
| 6½ Blue | 18 Carmine (Red) |
| 7 Olive | 18½ Vermilion |
| 7F Dark Sunburn | 19 Light Negro |
| 8 Light Sunburn | 20 Dark Negro |
| 8½ American | 21 Peach Bloom |
| Indian | 22 Rachel |
| 9 Indian Brown | 23 Brunette |
| 9½ East Indian | 24 Sun Tan |
| 41A Special Indian | 27 Lt. Egyptian |
| 10 Hindu Brown | 28 Dk. Egyptian |
| 11 Mulatto Brown | 29 Light Creole |
| 12 Mikado Yellow | 30 Dark Creole |
| 12½ Bright Yellow | 31 Hawaiian |
| 13 Purple Sallow | 32 Frankenstein Gray |
| 14 Gypsy Olive |
Bright Colors
| 6½ Bright Blue | 17½ Green |
| 17 Black | 15 White |
| 12½ Bright Yellow | 18 Red |
LIQUID MAKE-UP METALLIC
| 25 Gold | 26 Silver |
CAKE MAKE-UP PAINTING PALETTE
Five colors; in water soluble White, Black, Blue, Yellow, and Red
CAKE MAKE-UP
| Natural Blush | 44 Middle Age |
| Natural A | 45 Robust Juvenile |
| Natural B | 46 Green |
| Cream Blush | 47 Blue |
| Cream A | 48 Red |
| Cream B | 49 Lavender |
| Tan Blush | 50 Sallow Old Age |
| Tan Blush No. 2 | 51 Negro Brown |
| Tan Blush No. 3 | 52 Dk. Negro |
| Tan A | 53 Sunburn |
| Tan B | 54 Pink |
| 2 Russet | 55 Olive |
| 7 Sun Tan | 56 Spanish Mulatto (New) |
| 9 Red Brown | |
| 21 Peach Bloom | 7N |
| 22 Rachel | 725 A |
| 23 Lady Fair | 725 B |
| 24 Brunette | T.V. 1 |
| 25 Rose Brick | T.V. 2 |
| 26 Toffee | T.V. 3 |
| 27 Burnt Toffee | T.V. 4 |
| 28 Clove | T.V. 5 |
| 29 Mesa Brown | T.V. 6 |
| 30 Toast | T.V. 7 |
| 31 Cinnamon | T.V. 8 |
| 32 Othello | T.V. 9 |
| 33 Black Minstrel | T.V. 10 |
| 34 Gray Frankenstein | T.V. 11 |
| T.V. 12 (TV Black) | |
| 35 Light Creole | C-1 Light |
| 36 Dark Creole | C-2 Very Fair |
| 37 Hawaiian | C-3 Fair |
| 38 Light Egyptian | C-4 Medium Fair |
| 39 Dark Egyptian | C-5 Lt. Brunette |
| 39½ Japanese | C-6 Brunette |
| 40 Chinese | C-7 Dk. Brunette |
| 40½ Mikado | C-8 Golden Tan |
| Yellow | C-9 Copper |
| 41 Indian | C-10 Bronze Tone |
| 41A Special Indian | C-11 Walnut |
| 42 East Indian | C-12 Ebony |
| 43 White Clown |
SOFT GREASEPAINT
(Collapsible Tube)
| 1 Yellowish Pink | 11 Mulatto Brown |
| 1½ Light Pink | 12 Mikado Yellow |
| 2 Pink-Natural | 13 Purple Sallow |
| 3 Flesh | 14 Gypsy Olive |
| 3½ Deeper | 15 White |
| 4 Cream | 16 Negro Brown |
| 5 Ivory Yellow | 17 Black |
| 5½ Orange | 18 Carmine (Red) |
| 6 Tan | 19 Light Negro |
| 7 Olive | 20 Dark Negro |
| 7F Dark Sunburn | 21 Peach Bloom |
| 8 Light Sunburn | 22 Rachel |
| 9 Indian Brown | 23 Brunette |
| 10 Hindu Brown | 24 Sun Tan |
SOFT SHADOW LINERS
| 1 Lt. Flesh | 17 Black |
| 2 Medium Flesh | 19 Bright Green |
| 3 Lt. Gray | 19¼ Lt. Green |
| 4 Medium Gray | 19½ Dk. Green |
| 5 Dark Gray | 20 Blue-Green |
| 6 Lt. Brown | 21 Purple |
| 7 Dark Brown | 23 Lavender |
| 8 Lt. Blue | 24 Pearl White |
| 9 Med. Bright Blue | 25 Gold |
| 10 Dark Blue | 26 Silver |
| 11 Special Blue | 27 Silver Blue |
| 15 White | 28 Rose Sallow |
VELVET STICK
Matching
Cake Make-up in Colors
SPECIAL SOFT LINERS
(Do not use in eye area)
| 12 Crimson | 16 Bright Yellow |
| 13 Dk. Crimson | 18 Carmine Red |
| 14 Vermilion | 22 Red Brown |
LINING COLORS STICK
| 1 Golden Yellow | 15 White |
| 2 Flesh* | 16 Yellow* |
| 3 Light Gray | 17 Black |
| 4 Medium Gray | 18 Carmine* (Red) |
| 5 Dark Gray | 19 Green* |
| 6 Light Brown | 20 Blue-Green |
| 7 Dark Brown | 21 Purple* |
| 8 Light Blue | 22 Light Green (New) |
| 9 Medium Brown | |
| 10 Dark Blue* | 23 Brunette |
| 11 Sky Blue | 24 Tan |
| 12 Crimson* | 25 Red Brown* |
| 13 Dark Crimson* | 26 Lavender* |
| 14 Vermilion* |
*Do not use in area of eyes.
METALLIC LINING STICK
| Gold | Silver |
CREAM (MOIST) ROUGE
| 1 Twilight | 10 Youth Flame |
| 2 Light Red | 11 T1 Dk. Pink |
| 3 Medium Red | 12 T2 Rusty |
| 4 Dark Red | 13 Orchid |
| 5 Youth Blush | 14 Light Rose |
| 6 Real Red | 15 Rose |
| 7 Royal Red | 16 Brunette |
| 8 Pink Tone | 17 Carmine |
| 9 Brown (Male) |
DRY ROUGE
| 5 Youth Blush (T1) | 18 Evening Glow |
| 12 Dawn (T2) | 20 Tropical |
| 14 Twilight | 22 Youth Flame |
| 16 Raspberry |
BLUSH-ON STICK
| 1 Pink Pearl | 4 Bronze |
| 2 Summer Gold | 5 Peach Pearl |
| 3 Dawn |
| 1 Twilight | 13 Green (New) |
| 2 Evening Glow | 14 Blue (New) |
| 3 Raspberry | 15 Purple (New) |
| 4 Dark Red | Video Pink 1 Lt. |
| 5 Youth Blush | Video Pink 2 Med. |
| 6 Real Red | Video Pink 3 Dark |
| 7 Royal Red | Video Blush 1 |
| 8 Pink Tone | Video Blush 2 |
| 9 Brown (Male) | Video Light Red |
| 10 Lip Gloss | Video Medium Red |
| 11 Youth Flame | Video Dark Red |
| 12 Witches Black |
LIPGLOSS
| 1 Cherry Red (Regular) | 3 No Color |
| 2 Frosted |
EYESHADOW STICK
(Swivel Case)
| 1 Natural | 7 Taupe |
| 2 Tan (Video) | 8 Lilac |
| 3 Blue (Video) | 9 Silver |
| 4 Pale Blue | 10 Gold |
| 5 Irr. Blue | 11 Green |
| 6 Turquoise (Video) | 12 Pearl |
CAKE EYESHADOW
(With Applicator, Wet or Dry)
| 1 Aqua | 5 Blue |
| 2 Turquoise | 6 Jade |
| 3 Lavender | 7 Brown |
| 4 Green | 8 White |
CAKE EYELINER
(With Brush)
| 1 Black | 6 Lt. Blue |
| 2 Brown-Black | 7 White |
| 3 Brown | 8 Hi-Lite |
| 4 Smoke | 9 Green |
| 5 Med. Blue |
FLUID EYELINER
| 1 Black | 6 Green |
| 2 Brown-Black | 7 White |
| 3 Brown | 8 Hi-Lite |
| 4 Smokey Gray | 9 Navy |
| 5 Ultra-Blue | 10 Plum |
PRESSED PEARLITES
(Pressed Shadows in High Shimmering Colors for Lids, Face, and Body)
| 1 Copper | 6 Temptation (Blue-White) |
| 2 Silver | |
| 3 Grape | 7 Blue |
| 4 Raspberry (Red- Blue) | 8 Dark Gold |
| 9 Pale Gold | |
| 5 Champagne | 10 Bronze |
PEARLITES POWDER
(Loose Powder Shadows in High Shimmering Colors for Lids, Face, and Body)
| 1 Plum | 6 Temptation (Blue-White) |
| 2 Silver | |
| 3 Amethyst (Purple) | 7 Sapphire (Blue) |
| 8 Autumn Leaves (Gold) | |
| 4 Raspberry | |
| 5 Turquoise | 9 Sea Green |
| 10 Bronze | |
| 11 Pale Gold |
NAIL ENAMEL
| Black | Green |
| Purple | Yellow |
| Blue |
NAIL ENAMEL GLITTER
| Red | Silver |
| Blue | Purple |
| Gold | Multicolor |
BODY GLITTER (CREAM)
(Only the Glitter Shows)
(Do Not Use in Eye Area)
| 1 Gold | 4 Green |
| 2 Silver | 5 Blue |
| 3 Multicolor | 6 Red |
LUMINOUS MAKE-UP
| Phosphorescent | Fluorescent |
| Glows in The | Glows in U.V. |
| Dark | Light |
MAKE-UP CREAM
(Collapsible tube, water soluble, 1.25 0z.)
| Minstral Black | Green |
| Light Creole | White Clown |
| Glow Face | Blue |
| Dark Creole |
LIP LINING PENCIL
(7 inch)
| Tawny (Maroon) | Red |
EYEBROW PENCIL
(7 inch)
| Black | Auburn |
| Blue | Silver Gray |
| Brown |
MASCARA (CAKE)
| Black | Brown |
| Blue-Green | White |
FACE POWDERS
(Plastic Jar)
| 1A Neutral (Colorless) | 13 Othello Dk. Brown |
| 1 White Clown | 14 Chinese |
| 2 Light Pink | 14¼ Japanese |
| 4 Flesh | 15¼ East Indian |
| 5 Brunette | 24 Light Brown |
| 5¼ Dark Brunette | 24¼ Red Brown |
| 7¼ Suntan | 25 Black |
| 8 Tan | 26 Gray |
Frankenstein
| 9 Sallow Old Age | |
| 11 Healthy Old Age | 27 Blue |
| 28 Green | |
| 12 Olive |
RUBBER MASK GREASEPAINT
| C-1 Light Skin | C-7 Medium Skin |
| C-4 Fair Skin | C-11 Dark Skin |
COLOR CROWN TEMPORARY HAIR SPRAY
Fluorescent Colors
| Ripe Red | Ripe Red |
| Yummy Yellow | Yummy Yellow |
| Blazing Blue | Blazing Blue |
| Jet Black | Jet Black |
| Passion Pink | Passion Pink |
| Outrageous Orange | Outrageous Orange |
Glitter Colors
| Blue | Blue |
| Green | Green |
| Silver | Silver |
CREPE HAIR WOOL
| 1 White | 1 White |
| 2 Light Brown | 2 Light Brown |
| 3 Medium Brown | 3 Medium Brown |
| 4 Dark Brown | 4 Dark Brown |
| 5 Auburn | 5 Auburn |
| 6 Black | 6 Black |
In addition, Stein’s also furnishes toupee tape, collodion (flexible and nonflexible), nose putty, black tooth wax, Derma (mortician’s) wax (three shades), latex, spirit gum, clown white (regular and water soluble), blemi-sticks (three shades), stage blood, hair wax sticks (three shades), temporary liquid hair color touch-up, eyebrow and lipliner pencils (several shades), sponges, puffs, paper stomps, brushes, cold cream, liquid make-up remover, spirit gum remover, and a variety of student kits and masquerade, clown, and face- painting kits.
RCMA COLOR PROCESS MAKE-UP The Research Council of Make-up Artists (RCMA) was formed as a membership organization in autumn 1955 by Vincent J-R Kehoe with a group of leading New York make-up artists. In 1962, it was incorporated as a membership corporation, and in 1965 it changed to a sales corporation under the laws of the State of New York. Since its inception in the sales field, it has serviced only the professional industry with products designed especially for their use. Research and Supply offices were set up in Lowell, Massachusetts, in 1966, and the company was moved in 1985 to Somis, California, to better serve the industry while new laboratories were built for advanced research in plastic and latex appliances, modern adhesives, and special products for make-up artists. Although RCMA Professional Make-up cannot be purchased in any drug or department stores, it is available through authorized distributors in major production areas as well as sales outlets in many parts of the United States.
Color Process Foundations
These are some shades matched to some other manufacturer’s discontinued numbers that are still being requested by certain make-up personnel:
| Ivory | K-1 | K-3 (665-K) | Tantone | K-2 | RJ-2 (KF-7, PanCake match) |
There are also some four-part containers with special colors:
Bruise Kit Violet, Black, Raspberry, Bruise Yellow
Burn Kit Red, Raspberry, Black
Clown Kit Red, Yellow, Blue, Black
Old Age Spots Kit Four shades to simulate old age discolorations and spots.
These lipcolors contain no staining dyes and no perfumes.
| NUMBER | APPROXIMATE COLOR |
| CP-1 | Coral Pink |
| CP-3 | Browned Pink |
| CP-4 | Bright Pink |
| CP-5 | Orange Red |
| CP-6 | Blue Red |
| CP-7 | Blue Pink |
| CP-8 | Light Pink |
| CP-9 | Orange |
| CP-10 | Grape |
| CP-11 | Brown Red |
| CP-12 | Special Red |
| CP-13 | Mix CP-1 and 3 |
| CP-14 | Rose |
| CP-15 | Dark Red-Brown |
| CP-1 | Pearl |
| CP-3 | Pearl |
| CP-4 | Pearl |
| CP-5 | Pearl |
| CP-6 | Pearl |
| CP-7 | Pearl |
| CP-8 | Pearl |
| CP-9 | Pearl |
| CP-10 | Pearl |
| CP-11 | Pearl |
| CP-12 | Pearl |
| CP-13 | Pearl |
| CP-15 | Pearl |
| CP-6 | Copper |
| CP-12 | Silver |
| CP-1 | Gold |
| CP-4 | Gold |
| CP-6 | Gold |
| CP-7 | Gold |
| CP-11 | Gold |
| CP-12 | Gold |
| CP-14 | Gold |
| Gena Special Red | |
| Gena Special Red-Gold | |
| Gena Special Red-Silver | |
| Gena Special Red-Copper | |
| DP Special | |
| Pink Frosting | |
| Special Pink #1 | |
| Special Pink #2 | |
| Special Pink #3 | |
| Pink Cocoa | |
| Pink Gloss | |
| Gena Pink | |
| Gena Coral | |
| Gena Pearl | |
| Tomato Soup | |
| Fantasy Red | |
| Candy Apple | |
| Pure Pearl | |
| Bronze | |
| Copper | |
| Silver | |
| Gold Sparkle | |
| LS-1 | Fuchsia |
| LS-2 | Garnet |
| LS-3 | Cranberry |
| LS-4 | Orange Brown |
| LS-5 | Peach Pearl |
| LS-6 | Rotten Apple |
| LS-7 | Natural Rose |
| LS-8 | Light Pink Pearl |
| LS-9 | Orange Pearl |
| LS-10 | Salmon Pearl |
| LS-11 | Dusty Rose |
| LS-12 | Dusty Coral |
| LS-13 | Peached Brown |
| LS-14 | Browned Peach |
| LS-15 | Rust |
| LS-16 | Plum |
| LS-17 | Purple Brown |
| LS-18 | Bright Red |
| LS-19 | Dark Blue-Pink |
| LS-20 | Special Rust |
| LS-4 | Pearl |
| LS-7 | Pearl |
| LS-13 | Gold |
| LS-16 | Gold |
| LS-2 | Silver |
| LS-3 | Silver |
| LS-6 | Silver |
| LS-18 | Silver |
| LS-639 | Special Coral |
| LS-739 | Light Special Coral |
Lipgloss
| CP-1 | CP-10 | CP-12 |
| CP-4 | CP-11 | LS-12 |
Gena Special Red
No-Color
Clear
RCMA Lip Balm (Semigloss)
Within these shades and colors, one can find lip make-up for every period and fashion time. New shades are added from time to time according to fashion trends.
Eyecolors
# 1 WATER APPLIED
| Black | Silver Green |
| Midnite Brown | Olive |
| Gray Brown (Dark) | Aqua |
| Royal Brown | Turquoise |
| Light Brown | Silver Turquoise |
| Charcoal | Silver Lilac |
| Light Gray | Silver |
| Midnite Blue | Gold |
| Light Blue | Cream |
| Silver Blue | White |
| Green | Yellow |
| Light Green | Plum |
| #2 DRY APPLIED | |
| Royal Brown | Turquoise |
| Light Brown | Silver Turquoise |
| Royal Blue | Silver Lilac |
| Silver Blue | Silver |
| Wedgewood | Cream |
| Silver Green | White |
| Gold Green | Yellow |
| DRY BLUSHES | |
| Plum | Brown Pearl |
| Red | Gold Brandy |
| Mocha | Blush Pink |
| Pink Pearl | Flame |
| Peach Pearl | Candy Pink |
| Bronze Pearl | Garnet |
| Rust Pearl | Claret |
| Raspberry Pearl | Lilac |
#3 PEARLIZED AND GOLD SHADES
| Pearl Black | Gold Huckleberry |
| Pearl Charcoal | Gold Brown |
| Pearl Smoke | Gold Burgundy |
| Pearl Brown | Gold Emerald |
| Pearl Royal Brown | Pearl Wine |
| Pearl Light Brown | Pearl Mocha |
| Pearl Cinnamon | Pearl Plum |
| Pearl Rust | Pearl Pink |
| Pearl Cafe | Pearl Rose |
| Pearl Yellow | Pearl Apricot |
| Pearl Cream | Pearl Salmon |
| Pearl Olive | Pearl Violet |
| Pearl Green | Pearl Lilac |
| Pearl Turquoise | Pearl Blue |
| Pearl Teal | Pearl Light Blue |
| Pearl Pure White | Pearl Slate Blue |
These also come in kits of 12 colors of EC # 1 or EC #3 and kits of 6 in EC #2 or Dry Blush, made to order for make-up artists in their choice of colors in a flat plastic box.
Special Materials
RCMA has the most extensive and varied selection of special materials, and although mentioned throughout the text, this is a complete list of the items that are available in a number of sizes. Where designated, PMA is the abbreviation for a special line of Professional Make-up Artist materials.
PMA Plastic Wax Material
Light
Women (KW-3 shade)
Men (KT-3 shade)
Negro (KN-5 shade)
Violet No-Color
Also, there is Dental Wax in Red Gum shade and Black.
Latex
Pure Gum
Casting Latex
Casting Filler
Foamed Latex (four-part formula)
Foamed Latex (three-part formula)
Mold Release
PMA Silicon Mold Release
MR-8 Urethane Mold Release
PJ-1 Mold Release
FL-1 Mold Release (four-part foamed latex)
Old Age Stipple
| KW-2 (Light) | KM-2 (Deep) |
| KW-4 (Medium) | KN-5 (Dark Brown) |
Adhesives
Prosthetic Adhesive A (Solvent based)
Prosthetic Adhesive B (Water based)
Special Adhesive #1
Special Adhesive #2
Eyelash Adhesive
PMA Matte Lace Adhesive
Matte Adhesive
Matte Adhesive #16
Matte Plasticized Adhesive
Matte Plastic Sealer
PMA Matte Molding Sealer
Molding Materials
PMA Press Molding Material
PMA Molding Material (Light, Deep, and Dark shades)
Thinners
Prosthetic Adhesive A Thinner
Foundation Thinner
AF Foundation Thinner
Scar Materials
Scar Material
Scar or Blister Making Material
Plastic Cap Material
This comes in clear and pale tinted shades.
PMA Blood Series
Type A (Water soluble)
Type B (Plastic base)
Type C (Cream variety in tube)
Type D (Dried blood effect)
RCMA also makes Beard Setting Spray, Artificial Tears and Perspiration, AF Klenzer, Alginate Separator, and two-part Flexible Urethane Foam and Solid Urethane materials.
Appliance Foundation Series
RCMA originally made a PB (Prosthetic Base) series which was similar to the old Rubber Mask Greasepaint of Max Factor and others. However, this has been replaced with an advanced type of material which has higher coverage, no oil separation, and is extremely opaque while spreading very easily with a brush or sponge. (See page 94 for full discussion of this series.)
The Appliance Paint (AP) series includes paint-on shades matched to the RCMA Color Process series for latices or urethanes in certified colors. There is also a clear Aerylid for coating latices or urethanes. RCMA also furnishes Universal Colors in 1-ounce squeeze bottles that dispense just one drop at a time to tint any type of casting or slush latex or latices and urethanes during foaming operations.
Make-Up Cases
RCMA furnishes three styles of make-up cases (also see Appendix B). The accordion style is lightweight, compact, and easy to transport but holds a considerable amount of make-up materials. Also there are two solid walnut drawer styles that can carry more make-up than the accordion style.
RCMA also sells a variety of raw materials for molding and casting, dental acrylics, chemicals, and so forth under Make-up Lab Specialties Company. They also will furnish empties of all their containers for make-up artists who wish to mix special colors or add to their kits.
There are a number of other firms that supply theatrical make-up with similar products to some of those mentioned herein. However, those included are generally representative of the major items employed by professional make-up artists or the procedures and make-ups employed in this book.