Put On a Happy Face: Makeup

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

IN THIS CHAPTER

Facial Shapes

Makeup and Tools

Makeup Application

Study Words

In our eternal search for the next logical step, we’ve made it to makeup! Makeup, and the concept behind it, has changed greatly over the years. It all started in the 1920s and 1930s when a man by name of Max Factor became intimately associated with the world of Hollywood makeup. Yes, that is right, Max Factor was a real person. And his son, Max Factor, Jr. continued in his father’s tradition. Max Factor created the first makeup for the movies in 1914, and coined the term makeup, based on the verb “to make up” one’s face. He and his company are credited with many cosmetic innovations such as the first motion picture makeup in 1914, lip gloss in 1930, pancake makeup (the forerunner of all modern cake makeups) in 1937, pan-stik makeup in 1948, Erace (the original cover-up cosmetic) in 1954, and the first “waterproof” makeup in 1971. How is that for some history!

Ben Nye is another makeup pioneer, and his company has been very helpful in providing information both on tools and techniques. Ben Nye began his career as a Hollywood makeup artist beginning in the 1930s. By the time he retired his ethnic foundations and unique colors had become standards in the makeup department. He began formulating his own makeup brand ten years after his retirement. Today, his daughter Dana runs the company he started in 1967.

FACIAL SHAPES

The first thing to talk about when makeup is the subject are the different face shapes. The face is always balanced. We might not like the balance, but it’s always balanced. Analyze the face; take it apart. We always want to be able to see the eyes! They are the window to the soul after all. Double check the wardrobe, check character research, and talk to costume and lighting designers and hairstylists. It’s an ensemble that all has to work together and all the individual pieces have to add up.

There are six different facial shapes—oval, heart, pear, square, round, and long—and each has its own specific needs when applying makeup. An oval face is usually considered “perfect” because it is symmetrical. It has wider cheekbones and is narrow down toward the jaw line and chin and also narrow up toward the forehead. A heart face, which can also be called a triangle, is very unique. It is broader at the forehead and then tapers into a small, narrow chin. A pear face is wider at the cheeks and jaw but has a narrow forehead. A square shape is actually the most common facial shape. It is equally wide at the forehead, cheeks, and jaw line. A round shape is fuller and usually makes a person look younger than they are. It has a round forehead and a round chin, with wide, full cheeks. The long shape is similar to an oval face shape but has higher cheekbones and a high forehead.

MAKE UP TOOLS

Let’s start talking about the tools and makeup of today. There are several manufacturers of stage makeup. Similar to paint from Chapter 9, there are differences between the makeup you buy at the local pharmacy or department store and stage makeup. One of the main differences is that stage makeup is intended to be applied and removed frequently. Stage makeup also lacks perfumes. It is, therefore, easier on your skin and any allergies you may have.

Makeup tools are fairly easy to take about. Makeup brushes, like paintbrushes, come in a number of shapes and sizes. There are flat brushes, angle brushes, dome brushes, round brushes, detail brushes, foundation brushes, contour brushes, and rouge brushes. Brushes can be used in whatever way achieves your goal. Here are a few examples, but know that you can use them any way that works for you.

FIG. 13.1
Various facial shapes.

Flat brushes are great for blending. The shape gives you great control when moving the makeup around. You can really control how much makeup you remove versus how much you add. Angle brushes are for very precise work. Applying eye shadow, eyeliner, brow coloring, and lipstick are all good options for the angled brush. Dome brushes, with rounded corners for soft edges, are ideal for under-eye concealer as well as eye shadow. Round brushes are good for lining eyes, etching brows, and applying fine details to effect makeup.

Now wait a minute. Didn’t you say the same for dome brushes? Well, yes. But think about it for a second. Everybody uses brushes in different ways. And the eyebrow, for example, has places where you will need a wider brush and places where you will want a smaller brush. Whoever said you could only use one brush for each purpose? Not me!

Detail brushes come in a variety of shapes. Small powder brushes are soft and rounded, which gives you great control when adding pressed-powder colors to cheeks and eyes. The tapered-point brush is good for contouring eye shadows or applying powders that sparkle or have glitter. The petite shader is a small rounded brush for use when delicate powder detailing is important. The medium blender is a soft, but firm, chiseled-end brush for the precise finishing of powders. Lastly, the lip brush is a finely tapered brush with a petite shape for applying lip colors and glosses.

FIG. 13.2
Ben Nye flat brushes.

FIG. 13.3
Ben Nye dome brushes.

Foundation brushes and contour brushes come in a variety of sizes, all with the same shape. They are rounded, with tapered edges that make them perfect for applying crème-style foundations and pressed-powder colors. Rouge brushes come in several different options. The professional rouge brush has a full shape for the quick application of powders to the face and body. The touch-up brush is beveled for precise application of powder especially around the eyes. The angle contour is great for touch-ups. The contour shader is great for contour powder and shimmer powders where you will want a little extra control. The powder brush is full and luxurious for adding powder or removing excess powder without disturbing makeup.

Brushes are not the only way to apply makeup. There are a few other tools we should discuss. Sponge applicators, for single use, can be very helpful, as they give you a huge amount of control. Spatulas are used for mixing makeup and applying thicker products like nose or scar wax and gel effects. Spatulas are used in conjunction with plastic palettes. Palettes are great for mixing colors to get the perfect color, and they are easy to clean. Powder puffs are usually round. They are always soft and some are washable. They are great for applying powder very specifically and for blotting. Foam sponges come in different shapes and sizes. They are ideal for applying crème makeup. To use, dampen them first. They are gentle on the skin and you will end up using less makeup in the long run. The makeup will blend easier and wear better. Stipple sponges are made of nylon and come in square shapes. These sponges are great for adding texture such as beards, bruising, and road rash to name a few.

FIG. 13.4
Ben Nye round brushes.

That should give you a basic idea for the tools. Let’s move on to makeup. There are many variations within each category. We will discuss foundation, concealers, cheek colors, face powders, eye shadows, eyeliners, eye pencils, mascara, lipsticks, lip pencils, and lip glosses. We will also look at hair and character effects, bloods, latex, modeling wax, adhesives, removers, sealers, and cleansers. Wow, that is a lot of stuff. Let’s get going!

FIG. 13.5
Ben Nye foundation brushes.

FIG. 13.6
Ben Nye sponge applicators.

FIG. 13.7
Ben Nye sponges.

FIG. 13.8
Ben Nye other brushes, combs, and tools.

Creamy matte and color-cake foundations glide on easily when using a foam sponge. They are long lasting and provide a flawless finish. Foundations come in a wide range of colors to match any skin tone. If, by chance, you can’t find the exact color, you can mix them to create a new hue. Crème foundations do need to be set with powder, but more on that in a minute. Concealers blend away temporary and permanent imperfections. These can include birthmarks, blemishes, and tattoos. Concealers are highly pigmented, which is what helps them to cover up. This is the inherent difference between a foundation and a concealer. Concealers are the perfect way to cover up tattoos. Since tattoos have become much more popular, there will be many needs to cover them up for specific characters. Neutralizers correct specific issues within the skin tone, as opposed to just covering them up.

Cheek colors come in a variety of hues from the most pale to the truly strong. Keep in mind that the character may need just a gentle enhancement of their normal look, or you may be creating a fantasy character. Cheek colors can help with all of this including contouring with darker shades for special effect. Powder cheek color is most often applied by gently dusting the color over the cheeks with a rouge brush.

FIG. 13.9
Ben Nye crème foundations.

FIG. 13.10
Ben Nye neutralizers.

Face powders come in variations from completely translucent to heavily pigmented. Powder will set crème foundations for a durable, soft, and matte finish. A range of colors is available to match any skin tone. In addition, there is white powder for use when you are using a white foundation for effect.

Eye shadows, similar to cheek colors, are pressed powders with pigment. The colors for eye shadow are almost endless: beiges, pinks, browns, purples, blues, greens, grays, and blacks. These colors are overall more intense than the cheek colors. Here is the cool thing. Cheek colors and eye shadows can be used interchangeably. That is right—if you want to use blue as cheek color and you happen to have that color as an eye shadow, go ahead and use it.

Eyeliner has three options. Liquid eyeliner packaging looks a lot like mascara. Inside the container is a small fine brush that reloads every time the brush is put in. Liquid eyeliner gives a very precise line. It is smudge resistant, and also comes as water resistant and waterproof. Eyeliner pencils are moist and creamy. They are easy to smudge with a brush or applicator for easy blending. Cake eyeliner is applied with a small round brush and a little water. You basically take powdered pigment, adding water, and making liquid eyeliner that is applied with a separate brush.

FIG. 13.11
Ben Nye powder cheek colors.

Eyebrow pencils are great for enhancing brow contours and shapes. They are also great for filling in any minor thin spots in eyebrows. Pencils come in colors from white to black, with a range of browns in between. Mascara is used to coat eyelashes to make them appear thicker, longer, and curlier. There are many different formulas that all enhance your eyelashes in different ways and to different degrees. Mascara comes in various colors of brown, as well as black. It also comes in white, for aging, and clear. Mascara can be used on all facial hair to enhance and help style it.

FIG. 13.12
Ben Nye face powder.

Lipsticks are perhaps the most used cosmetic. Everyone knows what lipstick is, right? Moist, creamy color for your lips. Every color from a perfect match to the wildest you can think of. They come in a standard lipstick package, or you can get them in a palette. Either way, applying lipstick with a brush is more precise and will last longer. Lipsticks come in matte, gloss, and iridescent. The combinations are endless.

FIG. 13.13
Ben Nye eye shadows.

FIG. 13.14
Ben Nye eyeliners.

FIG. 13.15
Ben Nye eyebrow pencils and mascara.

FIG. 13.16
Ben Nye lipsticks and lip pencils.

Lip pencils help to contour lips. You can also alter the shape of lips with a pencil. Pencils are coordinated with the colors of lipsticks. You have the choice of a natural look by matching the pencil and lipstick colors, or going for something more dramatic by using a pencil that is lighter or darker than the lipstick color. Lip glosses come in clear, tinted, and shimmering. They are not meant to be as colorful as lipstick. Glosses are more delicate looking when used alone. When combined with lipstick they create a layered effect that is stunning.

Crème colors began life as crème rouge. They have exploded off the chart in terms of color and are now used for rouge and so much more, such as highlights and shadows for creating contouring and aging details, and rich colors for the more whimsical, dramatic, and magical. This is truly an area where your imagination is the only limit.

Liquid face paints are highly pigmented paints used for face painting and more. They come in a wide variety of colors. Aqua paints are similar to liquid paints in their uses. They come in cakes and need to be used with a brush and water. Both of these are created for not only faces but also bodies. Sparkles and glitter come in various colors. These are loose, small pieces of sparkle and glitter that are applied over wet liquid makeup or with a special glue.

FIG. 13.17
Ben Nye crème colors.

Clown white is a foundation that covers your entire skin tone with opaque white. It can be used by, well, clowns. But also if you are creating a geisha look or for certain aging looks. Crème shades in bright colors are packaged together and often called a “clown series.” Keep in mind that the most important thing is the product. These are crème shades in bright colors. Use them anyway you can, for whatever purpose. And maybe even to make a clown face!

Crème shades, as we’ve discussed already, come in a wide variety of colors. Now let’s take a look at how we can combine them in different configurations for a wide range of effects. Effects wheels are four shades of crème color that work together to create specific effects such as bruises, cuts, abrasions, burns, blisters, age, severe exposure, monsters, camouflage, and even death. They are totally cool!

FIG. 13.18
Ben Nye clown colors.

FIG. 13.18
Ben Nye liquid face paints, aqua paints, and sparkles and glitter.

FIG. 13.20
Ben Nye effects wheels.

Hair color is easy to get at the corner drugstore, right? Well, yes, but it doesn’t just wash out. Liquid hair colors can be brushed in for fabulous effects, and they wash right back out when you are done. There is no damage to your hair either. There are a number of colors and you can combine them for variations. Character powders are pigmented for very specific reasons. Plains dust looks like real dirt. Stipple this powder on to create “dirty” characters. Plains dust is a pale powder that can be used for aging. Charcoal powder can be use to simulate grease stains, powder burns from a gun, and much, much more.

Let’s move on to blood and gore. Gee, that is a sentence you don’t hear too often! Stage blood has come a long way. Commercial stage blood has many realistic qualities to include color and viscosity. It can also come in a peppermint flavor so that if the blood must be put in the mouth it is at least palatable. Staining can occur on skin and fabrics, so be careful of this.

FIG. 13.21
Ben Nye liquid hair color and tooth colors.

Graftobian Makeup Company makes a powdered blood that is activated by water. It is pretty cool! Here is how it works. Let’s say you put some of the blood powder on your arm. Then someone “attacks” you with a fake knife and the blade is wet. As the knife is dragged across your arm, the blood powder mixes with the water and turns into realistic-looking blood. It looks like you are being cut and the blood is coming out of an unseen wound!

Nose and scar wax is a very cool thing. It is pliable yet firm and can create a number of injuries. It is easy to shape into exactly what you need. It will stick to the skin on its own, but applying it with spirit gum will allow for a longer wear. Wax is always covered with makeup after it is applied. For more advanced effects, liquid latex is a great product. First off, always check to see if an actor has a known allergy to latex. Even if he or she has never had a reaction, try a small amount of latex on the skin and monitor it carefully for any signs of a reaction. For certain types of aging or injuries, you can apply the latex with a brush while holding the skin taut. When the skin relaxes, the latex will cause wrinkles and puckers. It can be that easy.

Let’s talk next about adhesives. We’ve talked about glitters needing adhesives and wax needing adhesives. Glitter glue is specifically designed for glitter and sparkles. Spirit gum is sticky when wet, but dries to a flat finish. It is used to attach various hairpieces like beards and mustaches, as well as prosthetic pieces. The gum is applied, then allowed to partially dry. When still slightly tacky, place the material on it that you are trying to adhere.

Removers come in a number of types, depending on what you are trying to remove. Spirit gum remover is specifically made to, well, remove spirit gum, and only spirit gum. Other removers are meant to remove a variety of products. Follow up the use of any remover with a cleanser that is delicate on the skin. Massage a cleanser into your skin and then gently wipe away. The other cleanser type is for brushes. All of your tools should be cleaned after every use. This is really important to not only the longevity of the brushes, but more important, to the health of the actors you are using the brushes on.

FIG. 13.22
Ben Nye stage blood.

FIG. 13.23
Ben Nye nose and scar wax.

FIG. 13.24
Ben Nye removers and cleansers.

MAKEUP APPLICATION

OK, relax for a minute. We’ve gotten through all the tools and typed of makeup. Exhausted? Excited? Well, next we need to figure out what to do with all that stuff you just read about. We’ve learned about the face shapes. The next thing to do is figure out what the makeup will look like. Makeup designers will often do sketches of the finished makeup. When applying makeup, it is important to chart what you create, mostly so you can recreate it for the next performance. The following chart is used to document the makeup you apply when you will need to do the same makeup again. Notice the grid, which makes it easier for others to pick up your notes and create the same design.

The application of makeup happens in a very specific order. But, here is the thing. The order does depend on what type of makeup you are applying. For basic street makeup, whether or not it is “enhanced” for the stage, the steps are as follows.

1. Foundation: Blend on a palette if needed. Gently pat the sponge on forehead, nose, and cheeks. Patting doesn’t pull skin the way rubbing does! Always work in an upward motion to help fight gravity. You are going for an even look, but be careful not to blend it all away.

2. Concealer: If trying to conceal dark circles or marks, the color should be slightly lighter than regular foundation because it has to counterbalance the darkness. Don’t change the hue for the rest of the skin, just use a slightly darker version.

FIG. 13.25
Linda Mensching’s makeup chart.

3. Powder: This will set the makeup. That means the makeup below the powder will stop moving around or blending with the makeup above the powder. Make sure you are happy with the makeup before you powder! You will use powder after the foundation and concealer, then again after the cheeks and eyes. And of course at any other point where you need to “lock in” the makeup.

FIG. 13.26
Palettes of combined colors can come in handy for applications as well as touch-ups.

4. Cheeks: Highlights and shadows can both be done at the same time. Use two different cheek powders for shadowing if the actor’s facial structure might have a tendency to get washed out by lighting.

5. Eyes: There are so many variations in shadow, highlight, liner, lashes, and brow techniques that it is impossible even to summarize. Look at makeup that you love. Study it and break it down. Figure out how it was done and then you will know how to apply it for yourself. Don’t underestimate the power of a well-shaped eyebrow. It frames the eye.

6. Lips: Lip liner and lipstick not only color the lips, but also help define and shape them. Even if color is not desired, a clear gloss or balm will make an actor more comfortable onstage where the air is sometimes drier.

Ben Nye, has been wonderful in sharing information with me, as you can probably tell from most of the images in this Chapter! The next series of photos are courtesy of Ben Nye. They are step-by-step process photos of makeup applications. This is a great opportunity to see the difference makeup can actually make, as well as to study the individual steps. Check it out!

Sometimes makeup is part of what helps an actor get into character. The days are over of makeup being hugely different between street and stage. Heavy shadowing is gone, unless it is for a special effect. Lighting has changed, and makeup has to change with it. Lighting can make or break the makeup design. Everybody has to work together. Linda Mensching did the makeup for a wedding where the bride said, “We all look beautiful, but we still look like ourselves!” Linda then said, “Who do you want to look like?” She also said if she makes up an actor and everyone says, wow that actor is beautiful, then she has succeeded. If they say what great makeup, then she has failed. Lastly, remember makeup is to enhance, it’s not instead of.…

FIG. 13.27
Kits are also available for a variety of specific needs and effects.

FIG. 13.28
Step-by-step makeup techinques shown over the next several pages. All have different outcomes and different effects.