APPENDIX A  
Makeup Materials

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The following pages contain an alphabetical listing of materials from various makeup companies. The materials can be obtained directly from the companies, from makeup supply houses, from websites on the Internet, or occasionally from your local drugstore. Additional vendors, addresses of the makeup companies, websites, and various distributors of their makeup are listed in Appendix B.

ABSORBENT COTTON Used for stuffing in the cheeks to enlarge them and for building up the face, neck, or hands in combination with spirit gum or latex.

ACCENT COLORS Colors used to “accent” the face, such as rouge, lipstick, and eye makeup, or to decorate it—as in clown, Kabuki, or other stylized makeups. Bright reds, oranges, yellows, blues, greens, purples, and all metallic colors are in this category. These are available from the various makeup companies in creme makeup, cake makeup, and greasepaint and are listed, in their brochures, under various headings—Lining Color, Cheek Color, Rouge, Lipstick, Eyeshadow, Pressed Shadow, and so forth.

ADHESIVES

Adhesive Tape Occasionally used to draw the skin in order to change the shape of the eyes or the mouth or to construct false Asian or sagging eyelids. A clear plastic tape called Dermacil is available in drugstores in ½-inch and 1-inch widths.

Kryolan has a clear plastic tape in ½-inch and 2-inch widths as well as an unusually effective double-faced adhesive tape, which comes in large and small rolls and is made with a very thin layer of strong adhesive on a brown paper tape. When the tape has been pressed into place, the brown paper is peeled off, leaving the adhesive. In using the tape, tear off the length you want—don’t cut it. Tearing the tape makes it much easier to separate the tape from the brown paper. The same type of tape is also available from wigmakers in precut, short strips, packaged in small plastic boxes for the convenience of toupee wearers who want to carry a small supply of tape with them.

All Kryolan tapes are available from Alcone and from the various Kryolan distributors. Both cloth and plastic toupee tape can be obtained from wigmakers, and both can be used to attach mustaches and beards for quick changes, as well as to secure toupees. (See Toupee Tape.)

Beta Bond A strong adhesive used to attach gelatin and foam latex appliances. Available from Premiere Products.

Duo (Eyelash or surgical adhesive) Is a cream latex-based adhesive used for attaching false eyelashes and for stippling to help conceal edges of prosthetic pieces. Works well for “stretch and stipple” aging jobs as well. Available at local drugstores.

Pros-Aide I and II (Prosthetic “B,” acrylic adhesive) From ADM-Tronics is a milky colored acrylic water-based emulsion adhesive that dries clear and becomes a flexible acrylic non-water-based material when dry. It is generally used for applying prosthetics and plastic bald caps. It is used to make PAX paint and Bondo. Can be diluted by as much as 24 parts water to 1 part Pros-Aide. Pros-Aide II is not quite as strong or as difficult to remove as Pros-Aide I. Prosthetic adhesive “B” called Special Adhesive II is available from Kryolan.

Spirit gum The adhesive most frequently used for attaching wigs, beards, and mustaches. Made from tree sap or synthetic resin, it can be thinned with acetone. It can also be made to dry extremely quickly when thinned with a small amount of Hexane. “Matte” sprit gum can be made by adding TS-100. The water soluble variety is practical for practice work and “speed” lay-on jobs (laying or building a beard directly onto the face with crepe or natural hair).

Telesis IV and V Replacement adhesives for Dow 355. “V” is less expensive and behaves most like 355, except for a slightly slower drying time. Available from Premiere Products.

(Tips for using adhesives: spirit gum on lace goods; eyelash adhesive and latex around the eyes; spirit gum for quick changes of rubber noses and prosthetic adhesives for extended wear; Pros-Aide for plastic bald caps; and medical adhesive for rubber bald caps). See FIGURE A-1.

ADHESIVE REMOVERS These solvents are used to remove a variety of adhesives from skin, wig lace, and prosthetic appliances. Adhesive removers are generally available from the companies providing the adhesives and should be ordered at the same time.

244 Remover A Dow Corning class of cyclic silicones designed to dissolve oils and greases. Removes makeup without leaving the skin greasy. Also removes medical adhesives. Available from Alcone and Namies.

Bond Off A mild solvent used to quickly remove either medical adhesives or spirit-gum residue from the skin or prosthetic. Available from Ben Nye.

Detachol Strong but gentle remover for adhesives, prosthetics, and heavy makeup applications. Available from Alcone, Namies, Factor II.

Hexane An extremely strong solvent used to “melt” edges of rubber bald caps. It can be used to dilute some adhesives to help them dry faster. Use sparingly and with proper ventilation. This product is a known carcinogen.

Isopropyl Myristate This is the gentlest adhesive remover and must be used with patience.

M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) A strong, flammable solvent used in bald cap plastic and other effects plastic. Requires good ventilation. This product is a known carcinogen.

Orange Solvent An excellent remover for oily residues on just about anything.

Prosthetic “A” Thinner Used as a thinner and solvent for medical adhesives. It also thins Telesis and other silicone materials such as Flesh Putty.

RCMA Adhesive Remover A highly efficient cleanser for removing all types of RCMA adhesives and sealers from the skin. Not designed for cleaning lace hair pieces.

RCMA Adklen A professional adhesive remover in a semi-solid formulation that does not run.

RJS Adhesive Remover This is a very gentle, thick cream-type remover for adhesives and adhesive residue. The thinner green-colored type is used for general cleanup.

Super Solv Nonoily, hydrocarbon-based, pleasant scented, extra-strength adhesive and prosthetic remover. Allows rapid removal of adhesives and prosthetics without damage to appliances and latex pieces. Available from Premiere Products, Inc.

AF (Appliance Foundation) Thinner A thinner and extender formulated for use with prosthetic makeup and rubber-mask greasepaint. Available from RCMA.

Airbrush and airbrush cosmetics (See FIGURE A-1) A pen-like apparatus, attached to an air compressor, that is used to distribute a fine mist of liquid cosmetic onto the skin. Can be used for television and film work, especially useful for high-definition technology, temporary tattoos, whole body coloring, and body art. Companies carry special cosmetics for airbrush use, Kryolan, Temptu and Kett to name a few. Check listings in Appendix B for more information.

Alcohol 99% isopropyl is the usual type for makeup purposes. 70% is also effective but leaves a slight residue. They can be used to thin temporary tattoo inks, to revive dried inks, and to thin prosthetic colors (although RMGP may lose some of its workability). The high percentage alcohols can also be used as a solvent to remove prosthetics in a manner that will allow them to be saved for additional use. Alcohol can cause dryness and skin irritation but is handy in a pinch. Obtainable at local drugstores.

Alginate A non-reusable impression powder for taking face casts and duplicating molds. It comes in regular and prosthetic grade and in a variety of formulas based on working time (3 min., 6 min., 8 min.) Available from dental supply stores, Burman Industries, Cinemafx, Namies, Frends, Complexions, and Alcone. (See Chapter 13.)

Alja-Safe Alginate™ Is produced by Smooth-On and contains no free crystalline silica, which is a carcinogen. Used to mold and cast. Cures quickly, makes accurate reproductions of the face, arms, and hands.

Antishine Products designed to control shiny skin and maintain a matte finish under hot studio conditions. They are completely transparent allowing the natural skin tone to appear through. Can be applied under and over foundations. Available in light, medium and dark from Make-up International Ltd. as Supermatte Antishine and from Mehron as Touch Up.

Aquacolor Wet Makeup A Kryolan moist cake makeup. Available in three sizes and many shades. There is also a water-soluble, nonmetallic makeup in gold, silver, copper, and bronze called Aquacolor-Interferenz. Both have excellent coverage. (See also Cake Makeup.)

Atomizers Useful for spraying diluted spirit gum on crepe hair to help it hold its shape, and for spraying alcohol on the face and on rubber pieces to remove spirit gum.

Bald Caps See Plastic and Rubber Caps.

Barrier Products In cream, spray, and paint on types, barrier products are water and perspiration resistant formulas applied to the skin to reduce irritation from cosmetics and adhesives and to increase the adhesion of prosthetic devices. Available as Kryolan’s Fixer Spray, Mehron’s Barrier Spray, Blasco’s Sta-Spray, Factor II’s Skin Prep, ADM Tronic’s Aquacream, and Premiere Products’ Top Guard.

Beard Block (See FIGURE 14-14.) A shaped wooden block used in ventilating beards. Available from wig-makers’ supply houses. Urethane beard and face blocks with plastic pipes in the back and at the neck are available from Makeup Designory. A plaster cast of the actor’s head can be substituted if no beard block is available or if a more nearly perfect fit is required. The hairlace can be taped to the plaster with masking tape. If you want to attach the plaster head to a wig-block holder, embed a 1-inch pipe into the plaster while it is still wet—the pipe will fit over a standard holder.

Beard Stubble Adhesive An adhesive wax in stick form used to attach beard stubble for an unshaven effect. It is made by Kryolan and is available from their distributors.

Beards Instructions for making beards can be found in Chapter 14. Excellent ready-made ventilated beards and mustaches are available from Kryolan. (See FIGURES A-2-A-3.) Ready-made beards can also be purchased from Alcone, some wigmakers, and retail costume companies.

Black Wax Used for blocking out teeth. It is softened in the hand, then applied to the teeth to be blocked out after they have been dried with a tissue. It can also be used to block out parts of teeth to make them appear broken or uneven. It can be removed with a dry tissue. Black tooth enamel (see Tooth Enamel) serves the same purpose. Using black eyebrow pencil as a substitute for black wax is discussed in Chapter 11. Black wax is available from Stein; black and brown from Graftobian. (See Tooth Enamel.)

Blemish-Cover Sticks These are small makeup sticks in lipstick cases used to cover skin blemishes or minimize wrinkles. They usually come in a limited number of shades, ranging from light to medium flesh tones. The lighter shades can also be used for highlighting. They are particularly useful for quick changes (see Chapter 18). Available as Kryolan’s Erase, Ben Nye’s Creme Neutralizing Crayons, William Tuttle’s Concealor Pencils.

Blood, Artificial Stage blood can be classified into two categories, according to the use to which it is to be put—external (used outside the body) or internal (flowing from the mouth). External blood should never be used internally. For internal blood, gelatin capsules, obtainable from your local pharmacist and makeup effects store in various sizes, can be filled with blood formulated specifically for internal use, held in the mouth, then crushed at the appropriate time to release the blood. (For certain external uses, capsules of blood can be held in the hand and crushed.) In deciding which brand of blood to use, you should consider the ease with which the blood can be removed from costumes and from the skin. Some brands of blood can be wiped off the skin easily without leaving a stain, whereas others leave a temporary stain, which can be removed with soap and water. Consider also the thickness of the blood and how believable it looks as it runs on the skin. The color, of course, should also be believable.

Artificial blood is obtainable from makeup companies and their distributors. It often comes in fresh, old, dried, arterial, and veinal colors; and in regular, thick, squirting, and coagulated formulas. The following list includes the companies and the type of blood product they carry: Ben Nye, stage blood, thick blood (arterial gel), and fresh scab; Mehron, stage blood, dark blood, squirt blood, and coagulated blood gel; Joe Blasco, artificial blood, artificial blood (dark), old dried blood; Kryolan, transparent blood (non-staining, non-drying), special film blood (washable), fixblood (waterproof, quick-drying, peelable), magic blood powder (appears in contact with component B), fresh scab, and eye blood; Graftobian, stage blood, blood gel, and blood paste; Cinema Secrets, FX blood, blood gel, and mouth blood; Paramount, stage blood, bags and capsules; Reel Creations, Inc.—Reel Blood Original Formula, lung blood (for dark skin, dark clothes, dark surfaces), aged blood, and thick blood (fresh, aged, and dried) (see FIGURE A-4); K.D. 151 Blood, blood jam and jelly, mouth blood, flowing blood syrup, pumping blood, drying blood jelly, and RCMA Blood Type A, B, C, and D.

The above list includes blood for external use, blood for internal use, blood for bloodshot eyes, washable blood, thick blood, packets of blood (external and internal), capsules of powdered blood (internal), and plastic blood in tubes (called fixblood) for a dried blood effect. The fixblood dries quickly, does not rub off, and is removed with acetone. Kryolan also has what they call magic blood, consisting of two reacting chemicals, both liquid, one of which is applied to the skin and allowed to dry. Then, at whatever point the other liquid touches it, the two chemicals combine and turn dark red. This might be used, for example, by applying one liquid to the skin and the other to a dull knife blade, then drawing the blade lightly across the skin to create the effect of a cut. Magic Blood should, however, be used cautiously. It is not a toy, it should not be played with, and it should not be used by children. It should never be used near the eyes or any mucous membranes. It should be applied only on normal, healthy skin, and it should be removed thoroughly after use.

Fabulous, a product parenthetically known as sunburn gel stain, can also simulate coagulated blood from cuts and gashes. Available from Cinema Secrets.

For blood coming from the mouth, Cinema Secrets’ mouth blood (mint flavored and formulated specifically for use in the mouth) is excellent in both color and consistency. Red toothpaste can also be used. Mixing it with adhesive powder for false teeth will produce an effect of dried blood.

Body Double™ Is produced by Smooth-On and is used for the molding and casting of the torso and head. It copies the form in perfect detail and the mold will last through many castings.

Body Makeup (See FIGURE A-5.) Available as an opaque liquid, a transparent liquid, or a powder. Opaque liquid body makeup is a greaseless foundation comparable to cake makeup except that it is in liquid form. It can be obtained from Mehron (111 Liquid Makeup), Visiora (CN-Liquid Body Makeup), Kryolan (Aquacolor Liquid and Liquid Body Makeup), William Tuttle, Joe Blasco, Ben Nye (MagiColor), Temptu, in a variety of shades. It is applied with a sponge, brush, or airbrush and is removable with soap and water or makeup remover. REEL Creations, Inc. manufactures a waterproof body makeup that is easily sprayed on with an airbrush or pump-type sprayer. Another body makeup called Dansproof is specifically formulated for professional dancers. Dansproof is a water resistant, self-setting creme foundation that does not require powder. Available from Kryolan. (See also Texas Dirt, Character Powders and Metallic Makeup.)

Bondo (PAX putty, PAX butter) Thickened Pros-Aide that can be used to fill in holes, build up shapes, or to smooth out and blend edges of prosthetic appliances and bald caps. It is made by mixing just enough Cab-O-Sil with Pros-Aide to prevent the mixture from running. Apply the mixture with a flat dental spatula or a small wedge of red-stipple sponge. The name “PAX butter” refers to the same material when made with PAX paint (colored). Can be removed with PAX ATTAX by Art Anthony and PAX On-PAX Off by Foam Paint Products or other Pros-Aide removers.

Brush Cleaner A liquid for cleaning and disinfecting brushes. It comes in bottles, canisters, and spray bottles. Available from Ben Nye, Mehron, Kryolan, Parian Spirit, Cinema Secrets, and Brush Off by Crosby & Co. Makeup removers and shampoo are also effective.

Brushes, Chinese or Japanese (See FIGURE A-7F.) Watercolor brushes with a fine, sharp point, useful in accenting wrinkles. Obtainable at art supply stores and in some Asian import shops.

Brushes, Dye (See FIGURE A-7H.) Also called hair coloring brushes are available in various forms. Some are shaped like toothbrushes and can be used for applying spirit-gum remover to hairlace in removing wigs, toupees, beards, and mustaches. Available from Alcone, Namies, and Frends.

Brushes, Eyebrow (See FIGURE A-7I.) Used for brushing the eyebrows. Available from Joe Blasco, Mehron, and Kryolan. Eyebrow brushes combined with tiny eyebrow combs (FIGURE A-7J) are also available.

Brushes, Eye-Liner High-quality, sable eye-liner brushes are available from Joe Blasco and from Kryolan. The handle of the Blasco brush is shorter and rounded at the end—a worthwhile safety factor when working around the eyes.

Brushes, Eyeshadow (See FIGURE A-7K.) Small, soft brushes used to apply pressed eyeshadow. They are also useful for applying dry rouge in small areas, such as wrinkles.

Brushes, Lip (See FIGURE A-7E.) Narrow, flat brushes used for applying lip rouge. Mehron and Kryolan have excellent short-handled sable ones. Joe Blasco has a retractable lip brush in a metal case.

Brushes, Mascara Small, stiff-bristled brushes for applying mascara.

Brushes, Powder and Rouge (See FIGURE A-7M and L.) The quality of powder and rouge brushes can be judged to a very large extent by the softness of the bristles.

Brushes, Shading (See FIGURE A-7A, B, N, and O.) Several flat—preferably sable—brushes of various widths and in long and short handle lengths are practically indispensable in doing character makeups. The bristles should be fine, tapered, and very springy. Wedge-cut bristles are especially useful for modeling nasolabial folds, for highlighting and shadowing around the eyes, and for modeling forehead wrinkles. Sable and synthetic brushes can also be obtained from art supply stores and from all major cosmetic distributors. The often in-conveniently long handles can be cut down if you wish.

Brushes, Utility (See FIGURE A-7G.) Can be used to apply sealer, spirit gum, or collodion. They are available from most cosmetic manufacturers and their distributors or at artists’ supply stores.

Burlap An open weave material dipped into plaster and used to reinforce molds.

Cab-O-Sil A fumed silica powder used as a thixotropic agent or thickener. Add to Pros-Aide to make “bondo” or to PAX to make “PAX butter.” It will thicken just about any liquid. It can also be used as a matting agent for most adhesives and as a “dulling powder” over various makeup applications. Avoid inhaling this product (use a dust or particle mask). Available from Alcone, Burman Industries.

Cake Makeup A greaseless, water-soluble foundation that is applied dry or with a dampened sponge. There are two types—dry and moist. Kryolan makes a moist type called Aquacolor. (See Aquacolor Wet Makeup.) Blending highlights and shadows is somewhat easier with moist cake makeup than with dry. The moist type is also better for stippling. Dry cake makeup is available as Mehron’s StarBlend, Max Factor Pan Cake (only the theatrical line has been discontinued), and Ben Nye’s Color Cake Foundations.

Camouflage Creme See Dermaceal, Dermacolor, and Tattoo Covers.

Carcinogenic A term used to define a product that is known to cause cancer.

Casting Fiber Made of long fibered hemp, this material is used for reinforcing plaster molds.

Castor Oil A highly emollient carrier oil that serves to bind together ingredients of cosmetic formulations such as rubber-mask greasepaint (RMGP). On its own it is ideal for coating latex appliances so creme makeups can be used for coloration (not as effective as using RMGP). Sold as Castor Sealer by Ben Nye and Castor Seal by Graftobian. Available at your local pharmacy.

Castorsil A mixture of Cab-O-Sil and castor oil. The resultant gel is mixed with an oil-based liner color to make a nonrunny, subtly tinted glaze used to color Old Age Stipple, prosthetic appliances, and three-dimensional latex and gelatin makeups. Glazes are more natural looking than opaque colors and can be built up gradually.

Chamois Can be used to press down the net in attaching hairlace wigs, beards, and mustaches with spirit gum. Can also be used in applying crepe hair. Available at most art supply, paint, or hardware stores.

Character Powders A variety of pigmented powders used on the face, body, and costume to resemble dirt (Mehron’s Texas Dirt in Plain, Silver, Gold, Trail Dust, and Charred Ash; Ben Nye’s Plains Dust and Ash Powder (also called Fuller’s Earth); Joe Blasco’s Movie Dust; and Paramount’s Dry Dirt Powder), powder burns and grease effects (Ben Nye’s Charcoal Powder; Paramount’s Black Powder) and character face colors (Paramount’s Death Green; Ben Nye’s Super White, and Kryolan’s TL 1 White). Powders also come suspended in solutions for spraying, painting, or sponging on skin and costumes. These are available from Joe Blasco as Sta-Charcoal, Sta-Dirt (in several colors) and Simulated Crude Oil; from Transformations Makeup FX Lab as Trans-Mud in light, medium, dark, and red clay, and Trans-Grease in black and green.

Cleansing Tissues Indispensable for removing makeup. They can also be used for creating three-dimensional skin texture (see Chapter 12).

Clown White An opaque white makeup used primarily for clowns. Available from Ben Nye, Mehron, Kryolan, and Graftobian.

Cold-Foam Systems A two-part foam system that you mix according to manufacturers’ specifications. This requires a release agent, a two-part mold, and a triple-beam gram scale. These foam systems are hazardous to the user and to the environment and are being replaced by safer water-blown foam systems. Available as Kryolan Cold Foam System and Burman’s Polysoft.

Collodion A clear, viscous solution of cellulose nitrates in alcohol and ether. There are two types of collodion—flexible and nonflexible. The flexible is used for building up three-dimensional shapes with cotton and other fillers. The nonflexible or rigid type shrinks as it dries and is used directly on the skin for making scars or pock marks (see Chapter 12). It dries quickly and can be diluted with acetone or rejuvenated with Hexane. It is available from Kryolan, and Mehron. Collodion can be peeled off the skin or removed with acetone. Collodacolor, a pigmented collodion, is available from Michael Davy Film & TV Makeup in transparent and opaque red, transparent yellow, transparent blue/violet, matte clear, and black.

Combs A wide-toothed comb is used for combing out crepe hair and wigs. A kit should also contain a comb to be used for hair with temporary coloring in it, one to be used with clean hair, and a rat-tail comb. Eyebrow combs and brushes combined (FIGURE A-7J) are available from Kryolan.

Concealer An opaque, highly pigmented creme foundation used to camouflage or conceal unwanted skin discolorations, birthmarks, and tattoos. Available from Joe Blasco as Dermaceal and Tattoo Cover, Ben Nye as Coverette Cover-up and Tattoo Cover, Mehron as Tattoo Cover, Kryolan as Dermacolor, REEL Cre-ations as Cover-up Spray, and the department store cosmetic Dermablend. See Dermaceal and Dermacolor.

Condom Nonlubricated and nonribbed condoms are used for various bladder effects when special effects makeup applications are required. They are often attached near the surface of foam latex appliances and filled with air or other materials for various effects.

Cornstarch Formerly used for graying the hair. One of the hair whiteners (see Hair Whiteners) should be used instead. For quick-change makeups or when the gray must be removed during the play, it may be necessary to use white face powder, which, though not satisfactory, is preferable to cornstarch.

Cotton Swabs Cotton-tipped sticks (such as Q-Tips), used for removing small areas of makeup when correcting mistakes or making minor adjustments and sometimes for blending or for applying dry rouge to small areas. They can also be used in applying latex to open molds and for removing excess latex from them.

Crayons A creme makeup in crayon form. It can be applied directly with the crayon or transferred from the crayon to the face with the fingers, a brush, or a sponge, as with regular creme makeup. Available from Mehron as a Grease Makeup Crayon and from Ben Nye as MagicColor Creme Crayons.

Creme Makeup A velvety, nongreasy makeup foundation applied with the fingers or (for highlights and shadows) with a brush. There are those who prefer to use a foam sponge for applying it as a foundation. The new, lighter varieties contain high-tech silicones in their formulas for a longer-lasting natural effect. These products do not penetrate the skin or clog pores and can be removed with facial cleanser and water or makeup remover. (For applying creme makeup, see Chapter 8.)

Crepe Hair Used for making beards and mustaches and occasionally eyebrows. There are two types—crepe wool and human crepe hair. Crepe wool comes in tightly woven braids and is usually purchased by the yard. It is available from most of the makeup companies and their distributors in such colors as blond, auburn, light brown, medium brown, dark brown, light gray, and medium gray. Human crepe hair is available from Kryolan and its distributors.

Dep A thick, hair-setting liquid. Available from beauty supply houses.

Depilatory A preparation for removing unwanted hair and to avoid the negative effects of shaving (particularly for men.) Products such as Clean and Easy, Magic Shave, and The Club Man are available from beauty supply stores.

Derma Wax A soft wax for building up areas of the face. It is easier to apply and to remove than nose putty but is less adhesive. It can also be mixed with nose putty as explained in Chapter 12. It is available from the various makeup companies and their distributors. Ben Nye’s Nose and Scar Wax and Mehron’s Putty/Wax are mixtures of derma wax and putty. (See Putty-Wax.) Kryolan has a special wax for street wear (called Dermacolor Skin Plastic) for concealing scars. The wax is then covered with Dermacolor makeup. Mehron has a sturdy wax compound mixed with fibers called Extra Flesh for creating warts, cuts, and scars.

Dermaceal A highly pigmented, waterproof makeup by Joe Blasco for covering skin discolorations, scars, birthmarks, burns, etc. It is available in five colors but can be made up to order in any color in the Joe Blasco line. It can be worn on the street as well as on the stage. It should be applied with one’s finger rather than with a brush.

Dermacolor (See FIGURE A-9.) A very effective camouflage creme by Kryolan. It is designed primarily for street wear for both men and women to cover skin discolorations, such as birthmarks or uneven pigmentation. It can also be used for the stage to cover temporary or permanent skin discolorations difficult to cover with most stage makeup. It can be used as a foundation color over the entire face or applied only to the discolored areas, then covered with stage makeup for the overall foundation. It has been used successfully by actors who are allergic to other kinds of makeup, and it has the additional advantage of being waterproof. It can also be used as a foundation color to successfully change a skin tone from light to dark or dark to light. If you are uncertain about what shade you should have, there are two very handy mini-palettes, each containing 16 of the available colors. There are two regular sized color palettes with 12 colors each in 2 different compositions for a total of 24 colors. If no one color is exactly right, you can experiment with mixing the colors in the palette and order the ones you require. They can also be thinned with alcohol or cosmetic fluid GP-20 to create translucent skin colorations for truly natural effects. (See FIGURE A-9.)

Dermatex A Joe Blasco foundation makeup for use on prosthetic appliances. Available in 40 colors. It does not need to be powdered, and it will not rub off on costumes.

Drawing Cards (See FIGURE 14-10.) Used in wig making for drawing and blending hair.

Epoxy Parfilm A spray release for easy removal of gelatin from stone molds. Available from Burman Industries and Factor II.

Equipoise A pre-base lotion for dry skin available from Joe Blasco. Also called Blasco Pre-base.

Eyebrow Pencils Wooden pencils with soft grease lead used for darkening the eyebrows. (See Makeup Pencils.)

Eyebrow-Pencil Sharpeners Because ordinary pencil sharpeners are not really satisfactory for eyebrow pencils, special eyebrow-pencil sharpeners should be used. Particularly well-designed ones are available from Kryolan. Other eyebrow-pencil sharpeners can be obtained at most cosmetic counters. For giving pencils a flat cut, a single-edged razor blade or a sharp mat knife can be used. Tip: place the pencil in the refrigerator or freezer for a few minutes before sharpening to obtain a more useful point.

Eyebrow Plastic (See FIGURE A-10.) Plastic from Kryolan in stick form for blocking out eyebrows. For further information and additional illustrations, see Eyebrow Plastic in the index. Available from Kryolan distributors, Alcone, and Namies.

Eyeliner Brush A narrow round brush suitable for lining the eyes. Very good sable eyeliner brushes are available from the various makeup companies and their distributors.

Eyeliners Water-soluble cake eyeliners, liquid liners, pencils, and dry powder are available in a variety of colors. Brown, charcoal, navy, and black are most often recommended. Never apply liners to the inside rim of the eye; this technique will increase the risk of injury and infection. Available from all cosmetic manufacturers; try Nina Ricci.

Eyeshadow Available in creme and brush-on pressed powders. Available from all cosmetic manufacturers. Apply with a beveled shadow brush, sponge-tipped applicator, or your fingers.

Extrinsic Coloration Any coloration system or product added on or applied to a given surface.

Face Powder Used over creme or grease makeup to set the foundation, it will, in most cases, produce a waterproof finish. It comes in a variety of tints and shades. Translucent and no-color face powders cause less distortion in makeup colors than the regular powders and are available from the various makeup companies and their distributors. Most translucent powders, unfortunately, have some darkening effect when used over white or very light colors. Mehron’s Colorset, Joe Blasco’s No-color, Ben Nye’s Neutral Set Translucent, and RCMAs No-Color, however, have relatively little effect and are, therefore, recommended for any makeup in which there are light highlights.

For a light coverage over foundations, tinted loose powders are available from Kryolan, Ben Nye, Joe Blasco, Cinema Secrets, LeClerc, and Viseart. When a slightly heavier coverage (to produce a true matte finish) is needed, pressed powders such as Ben Nye’s Poudre Compact, Joe Blasco’s Hi-Tone Intensifier, LeClerc Pressed Powders, Visiora PC, and Viseart Poudre Compacte can be used.

If you want to add a satiny sheen to your makeup, try Kryolan’s Satin Powder, Ben Nye’s Lumiere Luxe Powder, Joe Blasco’s Punch-up Powders, and LeFemme Sparkle Dust. Available from the manufacturer and from Namies, Frends, and Alcone.

False Eyelashes Used for straight or corrective eye makeup. They come in individual (single and cluster), half, full, and bottom lashes. They should usually be trimmed before using. Sometimes each lash can be cut in half to make a pair (see Chapter 9). Lashes with a feathered look are available and tend to look more natural. False eyelashes can be obtained from Kryolan, Paramount, or any cosmetic counter. They are applied with special eyelash adhesive or with Duo Adhesive.

Flesh Putty A silicone putty that stays flexible yet holds texture and shape. It comes in seven translucent colors to give a realistic skin-like appearance. Sculpt or press into molds for build-ups, cuts, gashes, and bullet holes. Blends easily and tints with any powder colorant for a perfect skin match. Adheres to skin with or without adhesive and is waterproof and safe. Use with Putty Melt, a silicone solvent, to achieve a perfect blend into the skin. Available from Art Anthony Creations and Namies. See Nose Putty.

Flocking Fine nylon or rayon fibers in a variety of colors used to give a “capillary” look in the manufacturing of gelatin appliances. Can also be mixed with K-Y Jelly and applied on the surface to produce similar results. See K-Y Lubricating Jelly. Available from Burman Industries, Cinema FX, Namies Beauty Supply and DonJer Products, Inc.

Fluorescent Makeup This makeup will glow in the dark as long as it is exposed to ultra-violet light.

Foam Latex There are several different companies that produce foam latex kits, each including their own instructions. Burman Foam, GM Foam, McLaughlin Foam, Paramount Foam, and MD (Michael Davy) Foam are some of the most recognized names. Foam latex kits are available from Alcone, Michael Davy, Burman Industries, Cinema FX, and The Monster Makers. (See Appendix B for suppliers and Chapter 13 for essential information.)

Foam Latex Injection Gun Used to inject large quantities of foam latex or other casting material into a closed mold to produce flexible skin and body parts. Skins are often attached over mechanical skeletal structures when animated creatures are required. An open pour is when the foam latex or other casting material is placed into an open mold and then the mold is closed around it.

Foundation Colors Colors used to provide an appropriate skin color or texture (natural or matte) for the character and to serve as a foundation for contour and accent colors. Foundation colors are available in creme makeup, cake makeup, liquid, and greasepaint in a wide range of flesh colors. Foundation colors are also known as base colors.

Gafquat 734 A resin found in commercial hair spray used to control the hair. Often used to flatten the hair under bald caps. Mix with mustache wax and 70% alcohol to make H-10. (See H-10.)

Gauze, Surgical Can be dipped in plaster and used over negative moulage molds. Available in drugstores and surgical supply houses.

Gelatin Can be used for certain types of quick three-dimensional work (see Chapter 12). Also used for manufacturing gelatin appliances. An industrial quality called 300 Bloom gelatin is recommended. Available from Burman Industries, Cinema FX, and Alcone. Other gelatin-based special-effects materials include Kel-Gel, Mehron’s 3-D Gel, Ben Nye’s Effects Gel, Kryolan’s Gelatin Kits, and Gelefects available at Burman Industries, Namies, and Alcone. Ready-made gelatin appliances (scars, cuts, bullet holes, etc.) are available from The Makeup Designory and W.M. Creations.

Glatzan L. A Kryolan product used for making bald caps. See Plastic Film, Liquid.

Glitter Available in a variety of colors, including gold and silver and in three forms—powder, tiny bits, and stars. The glitter can be easily attached by coating the skin with Glitter Gel, then transferring the glitter to the gel-coated area with a soft brush. Available from Ben Nye as Sparklers, Kryolan as Glitter and Glitter Stars (Moons, Dots and Hearts), Graftobian as Face Painting Glitter, Mehron as Glitter Dust.

Glitter Gel A transparent gel for attaching glitter directly to the skin or over makeup. It can be applied with the fingers and removed with water. Most manufacturers incorporate the glitter into the gel for ease of application.

Glycerin Can be brushed or sponged onto the body to resemble sweat or tears and to make it shine. It is often sold as Tears and Perspiration or Sweat and Tears. It can be used as a base for metallic powders. The powders can be either patted on over the glycerin or mixed with it before it is applied. Mehron has a Mixing Liquid that can be used with metallic powders as well as with other dry pigments. Glycerin is also used as a “plasticizer” for gelatin (Chapter 13). Glycerin is available at drugstores and from most makeup manufacturers and distributors.

GP-20 A makeup base for many commercial liquid makeups. It is used as a makeup extender and works to make colors more translucent. This product can be mixed with any dry makeup or tinted powders to produce a custom “liquid” makeup. A small amount on a sponge will remove excess powder and eliminate lines under the eyes caused by makeup gathering in the creases.

Greasepaint A term derived from the use of petrolatum in the makeup is the traditional foundation paint used to give the skin basic coloring. It is made in a variety of colors and in both a soft and a hard consistency. Mehron’s soft, lanolin-enriched foundation paint comes in the same type of container as their cake makeup. Kryolan’s soft greasepaint comes in convenient plastic cases in three sizes. Kryolan also has greasepaint sticks in two sizes. (See also Shading Colors and Creme Makeup.)

Greasepaint (including rubber-mask greasepaint) deteriorates with age. If any makeup smells rancid, throw it out.

H-10 A material used to flatten the hair at the hairline to eliminate the “bump” under a bald cap and to control the hair around the ears and nape of neck. It is made by mixing one part Gafquat 734 into one part mustache wax in a double boiler. After these products are mixed completely remove from the heat (extinguish the flame) and slowly add one part 70% alcohol (all measurements are by volume). Note: the flame must be extinguished before adding the flammable alcohol. H-10 is applied with a toothbrush or dental spatula. This product will hold hair in most any position.

Hackle An instrument combining the functions of a comb and a brush, constructed of metal spikes in a wooden block, used for combing or untangling skeins of hair. Available from wigmaking suppliers.

Hair, Human Used for fine wigs, toupees, falls, and other hairpieces, as well as for ventilated beards and mustaches. Waved hair comes in a loose corkscrew curl that forms a natural wave in the wig. Unlike crepe hair, real hair should not normally be straightened before use. It is usually available in lengths from 10 to 24 inches, in a variety of colors, and is sold by the pound (or the ounce). The price per pound varies with the length and the color. Available from DeMeo Brothers, California Merchandise Company, and Giovanni & Son. Human crepe hair is available from Kryolan.

Hair, Synthetic See discussion in Chapter 14. Synthetic hair with a high sheen is suitable only for certain stylized wigs and beards. Synthetic hair of a better quality can be used as a substitute for human hair or blended with human hair. Available from Kryolan and California Merchandise Company in a number of shades, which can easily be mixed. Synthetic hair is sold by the ounce and is considerably cheaper than human hair.

Hair, Yak Sometimes used for wigs but more often for beards and mustaches. It is also less expensive than human hair. See FIGURE A-14.

Hair Coloring Temporary color sprays are available from Kryolan and Stein and at drugstores and cosmetic counters. Kryolan has a number of opaque shades that can be used for covering dark hair with light colors. Reel Hair Color Palettes are available for the makeup artists and hairstylists who need many colors at their disposal without the inconvenience of open bottles and confined spaces. The palette is used for quick, long-lasting hair touch-ups (sideburns, mustaches, eyebrows, highlights, and shadows) and for scalp shadow to conceal balding areas. See Chapter 15 for more information.

Hairdryer Can be used to speed the drying time of latex and other rather slow-drying liquids and, of course, for drying hair. Make sure the one you use does not contain asbestos. Available at drugstores, appliance shops, department stores, etc. (Do not use a heat gun for drying hair or wigs.)

Hair Spray (See FIGURE A-15.) A spray used for keeping the hair in place. (See also Hair Coloring.) Colorless hair sprays are available in drugstores, at cosmetic counters, and from Kryolan. Colored, Glitter, and Fluorescent hair sprays are available from Kryolan and Stein.

Hair Whiteners Adding white makeup or hair color to dark hair often produces a slightly bluish cast. This can be avoided by mixing a small amount of yellow into the white product. Most of the temporary hair whiteners on the market have been formulated to avoid this problem. Ben Nye has excellent liquid whiteners in silver grey and snow white that produce a very natural effect. Kryolan has a liquid called temple white, and Mehron has two liquids called hair white and hair silver. All are available from the makeup companies and their distributors.

Hairlace See Wig Lace.

Highlight Colors Contour colors used for highlighting in corrective and character makeups. The values in standardized numbers usually range from 1 to 3½ for light and medium highlights, the hues from FS to OF, and the values from a to d.

Ice Powder Simulates frost and ice when sprayed with water. Available from Namies.

Intrinsic Coloration Dry or liquid colorant added to a product before it is used, therefore becoming an essential part of that product.

Key A key is attached or built into plaster, stone, or silicone multi-part closed molds to insure proper alignment and stability between parts. A key can be a small circular indentation, a wedge-shaped block, or a narrow slanted rail along the outer edge of the mold. See FIGURE A-16.

Krylon Crystal Clear A brand-name clear acrylic spray used to coat clay sculptures to protect the clay surface during the mold making process. There are other brands available. Before you choose another brand make sure the drying time is less than fifteen minutes. Available at art supply and hardware stores. (Note: Do not confuse the Krylon Paint brand name with the Kryolan Cosmetic Corporation.)

K-Y Lubricating Jelly Can be used in blending nose putty and derma wax. Can also be used as a protective film over a grease or creme makeup, then removed for a quick change (see Chapter 18). Mix red flocking with K-Y and apply over the foundation to create the effect of broken blood vessels. Available in drugstores in large and small tubes.

Latex, Liquid Used for building up flexible prosthetic pieces (see Chapter 13), attaching crepe hair (Chapter 14), or creating wrinkles and texture for age (Chapter 12). Latex is normally off-white but can be colored by the addition of small amounts of concentrated vegetable dye, food coloring, cosmetic grade pigments, or pigment dispersions (highly recommended) to arrive at whatever flesh tone is required. White latex dries clear; colored latex normally dries darker. If your bottle of latex has a brush in the cap, always return the cap to the bottle as quickly as possible so as not to expose the brush to the air any longer than necessary. Once latex dries on the brush, the brush is ruined. Protect your own brush by first coating the bristles with liquid soap. Citrus cleansers may also help to clean resistant latex from the brush. Rinse with distilled water rather than tap water to avoid curdling. Liquid latex is available from the various makeup companies. Kryolan, Ben Nye, Paramount, Stein, Bob Kelly, and Graftobian have latex available in clear and/or flesh-colored in a variety of sizes. Graftobian also has latex available in six colors. Joe Blasco’s clear, deammoniated latex is called Datex. GM Foam and A-R Products offer six shades of pigment dispersions.

Because some latexes cause a burning sensation when applied to the skin, always test the product on the inner wrist before applying it to the face. The ones mentioned here are intended for use on the skin and do not normally create a burning sensation when applied. However, as sensitivity to a particular latex can vary with individuals, any latex you plan to use should be tried on your skin well in advance of the time you intend to use it.

Latex Caps (See FIGURES 13-12 and A-19.) For creating a bald-head effect. (See also Plastic and Rubber Caps.) Available from Kryolan distributors, Cinema Secrets (Woochie), and Alcone. The Woochie rubber caps are thinner than the Kryolan caps and are designed to be used only once. When removed with sufficient care, however, they can usually be reused. Use appliance ad-hesives or medical adhesives for applying rubber caps.

Latex Pieces Ready-made latex pieces (noses, chins, pouches, Asian eyelids, wrinkled foreheads, scars, warts, burns, etc.) are available from Kryolan, Graftobian (clown noses), Cinema Secrets (largest selection), and Alcone. With some pieces, getting a perfect fit may not be possible. Ready-made chins and noses, for example, are usually designed to fit “average” features. Even so, they may not always fit such features perfectly since there are many possible variations in the shape of features of approximately the same size. Other pieces, such as eye pouches, are more easily adaptable.

Lip Rouge or Lip Color Creme makeup for coloring the lips. It is usually applied with a lip brush or lip pencil.

Lipsticks These can be used in the individual makeup kit but for sanitary reasons have no place in group kits. Use a makeup spatula to first transfer a small amount of lip color onto a palette. Then use a brush to transfer the color to the lip. This technique will safeguard against improper hygiene habits.

Liquid Makeup Any makeup in liquid form. It is usually referred to as Body Makeup except when it is intended only for the face. See Body Makeup.

Lumiere A soft, shimmery, luminescent makeup from Ben Nye in creme (Lumiere Wheel and Pencils), dry (Lumiere Grande Colour), and powder (Lumiere Luxe Powder) formulas.

Luminous Paints For a makeup that must glow in the dark, either fluorescent or phosphorescent paints and pigments can be used. The fluorescent ones must be excited by an ultraviolet light; the phosphorescent ones require no ultraviolet light but are less brilliant. A number of shades of both kinds of paints and pigments are available from Kryolan distributors as Luminous UV and UV Dayglo colors, from Paramount as Luminous Makeup.

Makeup, Non-Allergenic This term is used to describe a cosmetic product that will not produce allergic reactions on most people. Makeup that is advertised as being non-allergenic may be successful with some individuals and not with others. Non-allergenic or hypoallergenic is usually applied to most oil-free, fragrance-free cosmetics or to cosmetics with a specific type of preservative. Allergenicity is not a matter of the product but rather the sensitivity of the individual. Products with plant extracts and essential oils pose a greater risk of allergic reactions. Kryolan’s Dermacolor (see Dermacolor), a high-quality camouflage makeup, has also been used very successfully by individuals with allergy problems when non-allergenic makeups have failed.

Makeup Cape Used for protecting the clothing. Alcone has a translucent white plastic cape, and Kryolan has a plastic bib for covering just the shoulders and the chest.

Makeup Kits (See FIGURES 7-1, A-22.) Student kits, boxed themed kits, and film and video kits are available from Ben Nye, Joe Blasco, Kryolan, Mehron, Graftobian, and Zauder’s in creme, creme stick, cake makeup, and moist cake makeup formulas. They usually contain foundations, liner colors, cheek colors, lip colors, shadow and highlights, eyebrow and eyeliner pencils, nose and scar wax (nose putty), hair color, translucent powder, spirit gum and remover, makeup remover, brushes and brush cleaner, powder brush, powder puff, latex sponges, stipple sponge, stage blood, eyebrow/lash brush, and swab applicators.

Makeup Palettes and Stackables These plastic or metal containers provide a convenient way to carry foundations, lip color, cheek color, eyeshadows, character makeup, rubber-mask greasepaint, concealers, and tattoo covers in a range of colors in one container. (See FIGURE A-9.) They are available from most makeup manufacturers. You can also buy empty palette boxes from Japonesque and Grumbacher (obtained from artists’ supply stores) and fill them with colors of your own choice, as suggested in Chapter 7.

Makeup Pencils Wooden pencils with soft grease lead. When used for darkening the eyebrows, they are usually called eyebrow pencils. They are available in a variety of colors in addition to the usual brown and black. Pencils to be used for shading can be sharpened flat with a razor blade, rather like an artist’s shading pencil. (See FIGURE 11-11 and the discussion in Chapter 11 in the section on eye pouches.) They are also used as eye liner and come in lip color formulas.

Before using any red pencil in a makeup, test it on the skin to see if it leaves a red stain when removed. If it does, try another shade or use another type of red makeup.

Makeup Removers Available in cream or liquid formulas from a variety of makeup companies and their distributors. Various brands of cleansing cream, cold cream, and baby oil can be obtained in drugstores. All makeup removers and skin care products should be carefully chosen to meet the needs of individual skin types. Consultation with a skin care specialist is recommended.

Mascara Used primarily for coloring the eyelashes, sometimes the eyebrows, and occasionally the hair. It is made in clear, brown, black, white, and various colors, such as blue, green, blond, and henna. It comes in creme and liquid and in regular, thickening, lengthening, and waterproof formulas. Having a combination of black or brown with white can be very convenient, since the white is useful for aging. It is applied with a spiral applicator brush often attached to a wand for personal use. The disposable type is convenient for maintaining proper hygiene, professional makeup artists, and for group kits. Mascara is available from the makeup companies and their distributors and from any cosmetic counter.

Matte Adhesive A non-shiny spirit gum, available from Kryolan, Joe Blasco, Mehron, W.M. Creations, and Ben Nye. Matte spirit gum can be created by mixing a small amount of T-100 into regular spirit gum.

Menaji First cosmetic line developed specifically for men.

Menthol Blower/Crystals Menthol crystals are placed into a small container that blows fumes towards the performer, producing real tears. Available from Frends, Namies, and Kryolan.

Metallic Makeup Metallic makeup in both creme and water-based formulas come in gold, silver, silver-blue, silver-green, silver-lilac, bronze, and copper. Kryolan’s nonmetallic metallic makeups include Metallic Aquacolor and Metallic Foundations. Kryolan also has a nonmetallic liquid makeup, called liquid brightness, in gold, silver, and copper. It can be applied with a brush, a sponge, or the fingers, directly on the skin or over other makeup. It can also be mixed with other liquid makeup before it is applied. Either technique will give variations on the basic colors (red-gold, green-gold, silver-blue, etc.). Any unevenness can be smoothed out after the makeup is dry by stroking lightly with tissues or cotton.

Joe Blasco has a very effective Metallic Liquid Body Makeup, available in light gold, dark gold, copper, purple, green, brown, red, and blue.

Although gold and silver powders can be used on the hair for graying or adding brilliance, they are difficult to remove and ruinous to any grease or creme makeup upon which they happen to fall. Silver and gold sprays are preferable. The powders can be mixed with Mehron’s mixing liquid and applied to the body for special effects. The powders are usually available in silver (aluminum), gold, copper, red, blue, and green. Mehron has gold and silver.

Non-metallic products that provide a lustrous sheen include Ben Nye’s creme formula fireworks in gold dust, silver satin, diamond ice, ruby lustre, copper and bronze, and dry pressed colors called lumiere grande colour in eight vivid shades. Kryolan has an effective water-soluble, nonmetallic gold and silver makeup called Aquacolor Interferenz, which can be applied with the fingers or with a damp sponge or a brush. Normal application gives a solid metallic effect, but a light application over other makeup gives a slight metallic sheen. Kyrolan also has an iridescent makeup called Interferenz (available in a mini-palette of 16 shades, as well as individually).

Flakes or sequins are also available. These can be used for certain scintillating, sparking effects in stylized makeups. Kryolan has glitter in various colors and forms, including Aurora Borealis, gold, red, prismatic in loose, creme, gel and spray. Ben Nye has MagicColor Glitter Paints and Sparklers, Mehron has Glitter Dust and Glitterwear (a paint-on gel), and Graftobian has Face Painting Glitter.

No metallic paint should remain on the entire body longer than necessary and should not be used at all unless the actor is in good health. It is considered safe for very short periods, but if it is left too long on the entire body or a large portion of its area, the effects could be extremely dangerous. As a precaution, at least a few square inches of skin—even if the actor is completely nude—should be free of the makeup to allow that much of the skin to “breathe.” Should the actor wearing the metallic makeup show any sign of faintness—no matter what you think the cause may be—the makeup should be removed immediately!

Methylcellulose This product when mixed with warm water produces “slime.” The thickness and stringiness can be adjusted to suit the necessary effect. It can be tinted with water-based colorants.

Mineral Oil A clear, odorless oil derived from petroleum that is not known to cause allergic reactions. It is used as an emollient cleanser and emulsifier of trapped dirt in pores. It can also be sprayed on the face to simulate perspiration.

Mirror A double-faced mirror (one side magnifying) is very useful in the makeup kit. Whenever possible, of course, makeup should be done before a large, well-lighted mirror, but the small mirror is essential in getting back and profile views. Portable lighted makeup mirrors are very useful—especially those that allow for adjusting the color of the light and have triple mirrors—two adjustable side panels and a center panel with a plain mirror on one side and a magnifying mirror on the other. Professional quality portable makeup mirrors with daylight corrected fluorescent bulbs are available from Cases for Visual Artists, Inc. and Kryolan.

Mixing Liquid A clear liquid for mixing with metallic powders and dry makeup pigments. Available from Mehron and its distributors. Also see GP-20.

Modeling Clay There are two types of clay. One is an oil-base modeling clay used to model heads when studying facial structure and when sculpting features for prosthetic appliances. This type does not dry out and is available in a sulphur-based clay (Plastilina) and a non-sulphur based clay (Chavant NSP). It is important to choose the proper clay when making molds from the clay sculpture. Some materials, such as tin-based and platinum-based silicones, will not cure against sulphur clays. The other type is a water-based clay used for quickly building walls and casings around sculpting. This type will dry out when exposed to air. Available at art supply stores, Alcone, Burman Industries, Cinema FX, and Davis Dental.

Modeling Tools Artists’ modeling tools are used in clay modeling and sometimes in modeling nose putty or derma wax. Available from art supply stores and dental supply houses in various styles.

Moisturizer Exposure to harsh detergents, certain makeup products, and climatic conditions can render the skin fragile and dry. The design of modern moisturizers depends on the careful selection of various hygroscopic (a term used to describe an ingredient that readily absorbs and retains moisture) ingredients such as emollients and humectants with properties that maintain the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) found in the skin’s corneum layer.

Mortician’s Wax Also called Naturo Plasto, is similar to derma wax and can be used in the same manner. Available from Alcone, Namies, and Frends.

Moulage An inexpensive impression material that will cast any object including props, masks, and faces. It can be reused over and over and is useful for beginners who are still practicing. Moulage must be heated in a double boiler. This turns the otherwise rubbery product into a smooth, thick, pourable substance. In this state the moulage can be very hot! Care must be taken to avoid burning the skin when facial impressions are being made. For this reason, moulage is no longer recommended for facial impressions. See Alginate. Available from Alcone and Kryolan.

Movie Mud A Joe Blasco makeup for simulating mud or dirt. Also called Sta-dirt.

Mustaches Excellent ready-made mustaches, ventilated on net (see FIGURE A-25), are available from Al-cone and Kryolan distributors. Instructions for making beards and mustaches are given in Chapter 14.

Mustache Wax/Eyebrow Plastic Available from Kryolan.

Netting Used as a foundation for wigs, toupees, beards, and mustaches. Available in silk, nylon, plastic, and cotton. The more expensive nettings (or hairlace) should be used for good wigs, toupees, and beards. Cotton netting can be used for practice work. All nettings and laces are available from Alcone, Kryolan distributors, and a variety of manufacturers listed in Appendix B.

Neutralizer A translucent creme-based product used to diminish the effects of facial discoloration by employing the science of color theory, specifically that of complementary colors. Complementary colors, when mixed together, produce a neutral tone, a shade of brown. By applying the complementary color over a given skin discoloration (i.e., orange over a blue beard shadow) the skin discoloration will, in theory, be neutralized and disappear. It can be applied over or under the foundation.

Nose Putty Used for building up the nose and other bony parts of the face. Available from Kryolan distributors in two degrees of stiffness, the softer of which is called Plastici. Ben Nye’s Nose and Scar Wax is a blend of putty and wax as is Mehron’s Putty/Wax. Also see Flesh Putty.

Old Age Stipple Liquid latex mixture stippled onto stretched skin with a latex, synthetic, or redrubber sponge that has been torn and plucked smooth. When dried and powdered, old age stipple forms a stiff, yet flexible layer over the skin, which buckles when the stretched skin is released. With gelatin as one of its ingredients, it is necessary to immerse old age stipple in hot water for a few minutes to bring it back to a liquid state before application. Old age stipple can be made in three grades: light for around the eyes; medium for the face; and heavy for the back of the hands.

Basic recipe:	90 grams (100 ml.) foam latex base
	10 grams (5 teaspoons) talc U.S.P
	6 grams (2 teaspoons) loose pigmented powder or pulverized pancake makeup
	2 grams (½ teaspoon) Knox unflavored gelatin
	32.5 ml (3 tablespoons) boiling distilled water
Light:	1. Combine and stir together talc, powder or pancake, and gelatin in an 8-oz. plastic, glass, or styrofoam cup.
	2. Add the boiling distilled water (tap water will change the ph of the latex and cause it to curdle) one tablespoon at a time (mixing after each) until the mixture is smooth.
	3. Strain latex through tulle or wig lace to remove any lumps.
	4. Slowly add dissolved powders to the latex. Stir rapidly to avoid lumps.
	5. Pour the mixture into 2-oz. or 3-oz. glass or plastic jars and label them “Stipple-Light” with the date.
Medium	1. Combine the light recipe (the light recipe yields 140 grams) with either 60 grams of Winsor & Newton Acrylic Gel Medium or 50 grams of Acrylic Gel Medium thickened with 3 tablespoons of Cab-O-Sil.
	2. Stir small amounts of the light stipple into the gel until they are combined thoroughly.
	3. Pour into jars and label.
Heavy	1. Combine one part (by volume) Medium Grade Stipple with one part (by volume) Sculpture House Pliatex Casting Filler clay.
	2. Pour into jars and label.

Note: When stronger adhesion is needed, combine 45 grams of Pros-Aide with 45 grams of foam latex base. See Chapter 13 for removal suggestions. This product must be stored in the refrigerator.

Also available from Ben Nye, Kryolan, Transformations, and RCMA. A stronger, heavier aging formula is available from W.M. Creations.

Old Age Stipple Moistener A mixture of castor oil and 99% isopropyl alcohol applied with a foam latex sponge or the finger tips to dried and powdered old age stipple. This will turn the stipple translucent, which allows the skin’s natural coloration to show through. It also prepares the surface to accept any type of foundation or liner color (except PAX, which needs no surface preparation over latex) or rubber-mask greasepaint, which already has castor oil as a vehicle. Excess moistener can be tissued off before makeup application. Also sold as Castor Sealer by Ben Nye.

Pan-Cake Max Factor’s trade name for cake makeup.

Pan-Stik Max Factor’s trade name for creme stick.

PAX Medium A mixture of approximately equal parts of Pros-Aide and acrylic matte medium. PAX medium will dry crystal clear and can be mixed with water-based or water-soluble coloring agents (food color, pancake makeup, acrylic paint, etc.) to make translucent glazes for character coloration on skin and prosthetics. Note: adding titanium white to a PAX medium glaze will minimize the translucency and lessen the effect.

PAX Paint Paint used on prosthetic pieces and prosthetic applications made by mixing Liquitex acrylic paint with Pros-Aide adhesive in equal proportions. (See Chapter 13.) Available ready-made from Foam Paint Products, from Namies, and other suppliers as “FX Paints” by John Logan and from Thom Suprenaut at (619) 247–1996. They come color-matched to standard popular William Tuttle and RCMA foundation shades. This product is not recommended for direct application on the skin. When removing PAX appliances, soak the adhesive first with the appropriate remover or 70% isopropyl alcohol on a flat brush. Carefully peel the appliance away from the skin. Remove residue with a puff soaked in isopropyl myristate, which is milder to the skin than Detachol. Clean the skin with Noxema and finish with a 100% aloe vera gel treatment. (See FIGURE A-26.)

Perspiration Glycerin can be used to achieve the effect of perspiration by patting—not rubbing—it on the skin with the fingertips. Glycerin can be purchased at any pharmacy and from most makeup suppliers. See Glycerin.

Phosphorescent Makeup Makeup that glows in the dark after being exposed to light. The glow will soon diminish but will glow again after each exposure.

Plaster Bandage Rolls of gauze impregnated with plaster for use in making molds with alginate and silicone. Gypsona and Johnson & Johnson brands can be obtained from art stores, medical supply houses, Alcone, Burman Industries, and Cinema FX.

Plaster of Paris Used in making both positive casts and negative slush molds for rubber prosthesis (see Chapter 13). Can be obtained from paint stores, art supply stores, craft stores, pottery and ceramics suppliers, and some special effects makeup suppliers.

Plastic and Rubber Caps Used for a bald-head effect. Available from Michael Davy, Alcone (Paramount), Kryolan distributors, and Cinema Secrets (Woochie distributor). (See also Plastic Film, Liquid and Plastic/Porcelain Head Forms.) If the makeup you are using does not adhere to the cap, use Kryolan’s Fixer Spray or Glatzan L (matte finish) to coat the cap before applying the makeup. If a cap has lost its flexibility, warm it with a hairdryer. Use medical or prosthetic adhesives for securing rubber caps and Pros-Aide adhesive for plastic caps.

Plastic Film, Liquid Kryolan has a liquid plastic called Glatzan L, which can be used to make bald caps and can also be painted on glass to make a plastic film in any shape or size. The film can be used for making eyebrow covers (see Chapter 11) as well as scars and sagging eyelids (see Chapter 12). It should be used in a well-ventilated room. Glatzan L matte can be used over Glatzan L to provide a matte finish. A Glatzan hardener is also available for making a stiffer plastic film. The Glatzan liquid must not be used on the skin. Glatzan that has become too thick can be thinned with acetone. Other cap materials include Paramount Cap Material and RCMA’s Plastic Cap Material.

Kryolan’s Old Skin Plast is a clear liquid that can be applied to the skin to wrinkle it. The liquid is brushed on over stretched skin (lightly coated with skin cream or creme makeup). It dries in a matter of seconds and can then be powdered. When the skin is released, wrinkles form. For deeper wrinkles, repeat the process. For still deeper wrinkles, apply torn pieces of cleansing tissue (white or colored) to the first layer of Old Skin Plast, then brush on another layer over the tissue. The liquid plastic is available in a matte finish, which makes powdering unnecessary. It can also be used as a sealer over derma wax, Eyebrow Plastic, etc. It can be removed with Kryolan’s OSP Remover or with Kryolan’s Mild Spirit Gum Remover. Mehron’s Fixative A (see Sealer) can be used in the same way as Old Skin Plast.

Plastic/Porcelain Head Forms For use in making plastic caps. Available from Alcone, Kryolan distributors, and Makeup Designory.

Plastici A soft nose putty made by Kryolan. (See Nose Putty.)

Powder Puffs Velour powder puffs are available from Ben Nye, Mehron, Shiseido, and any cosmetic counter. Large (5-inch diameter) velour puffs are available from Joe Blasco.

Pressed Eyeshadow Dry cake eyeshadow. (See Eyeshadow.)

Prosthetic Adhesive or Medical Adhesive A special adhesive for use with prosthetic appliances. Available from Alcone, Mehron, Ben Nye, Namies, and others.

Putty-Wax A soft putty made by melting nose putty and derma wax together (see Chapter 12). Mehron’s Modeling Putty-Wax and Ben Nye’s Nose and Scar Wax are ready-made mixtures of derma wax and nose putty.

Rouge, Creme For coloring cheeks, lips, and other areas of the face. Also used for stippling. Available from the various makeup companies.

Rouge, Dry A pressed cake (or sometimes powdered) rouge that can be applied with a puff or a soft brush, or with a damp sponge, over an otherwise completed makeup. Brush-on rouge, a somewhat powdery cake, sometimes called a “blusher,” is applied dry with a soft brush. It is available in softer, more subtle colors than most dry rouges.

Rubber-Mask Greasepaint A special castor-oil base greasepaint for use on slip latex, foam latex, and gelatin appliances. Mineral oil-based products tend to absorb into the latex and turn slightly gray in color. Available from Mehron, RCMA, Cinema Secrets, Joe Blasco (TPM-Traditional Prosthetic Makeup), and Kryolan. Ben Nye’s Castor Sealer, Graftobian’s Castor Seal, and Kryolan’s Castor Sealor applied to latex products allows regular creme makeups to be used.

Satin Powder Kryolan’s nonmetallic powder, which gives a satiny sheen to the makeup. It comes in fourteen shades—pearl, gold, copper, flesh, red, rose, blue, petrol, green, lilac, red-brown, peach, black, and silver. Available from Kryolan distributors.

Scar Plastic Available from RCMA as Scar Material and Blister or Scar Making Material. See Tuplast and Gelatin.

Scars and Wounds Molded latex scars and wounds can be made quite easily by obtaining a Vacu-form mold of scars and wounds (available from Kryolan), making a negative plaster cast in the Vacu-form mold, then making latex positives from the negative plaster cast.

Scissors Necessary for trimming crepe hair and frequently useful for other purposes, such as trimming latex pieces. Barbers’ shears are best for hair work.

Sealer A liquid plastic skin adhesive containing polyvinyl butyral, castor oil, and isopropyl alcohol. It is used to provide a protective coating for various makeup constructions. It is an important item in any makeup kit. It is available from Mehron and their distributors in a convenient bottle with brush called Fixative A. It is also available in spray bottles from Ben Nye, Kryolan, and Joe Blasco. Blasco’s is available in two types—regular and matte. W.M. Creations, Inc. has two types of sealers, A and B. Type A is a lighter strength formula for sealing the outer surface of gelatin appliances while type B, a slightly heavier formula, is for sealing the inner surface of gelatin appliances. See Barrier Products.

Sensitex A pressure-sensitive appliance adhesive. Available from Joe Blasco.

Separating Agents (mold release) Used in casting between the positive and the negative molds to make it possible to separate them easily. Vaseline, Frekote Mold Release, McLube, Carnuba Wax, Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA), Polysoft Mold Release, Green Soap, Epoxy Parfilm, Molder’s Edge ME-301 NS Spray Petroleum, Pure Lube Mold Soap, and PAM, are just a few examples.

Shading Colors The term is used in two ways— specifically to refer to contour colors used for shadowing and, in a more general sense, to include all contour and accent colors. Shading colors (in both the general and the specific meaning) are available from all of the makeup companies.

Silicone See Chapter 13.

Silicone Oil (also DC 200 Fluid) A mold release agent that is also useful when applied over a finished makeup application when a shine effect is needed. The product will not disturb the makeup.

Skin Tight™ is produced by Smooth-On and it is a sculpting medium that can be sculpted on the skin for wounds and scars. It can be pigmented and used in a mold. It is also used as an adhesive that is flexible and won’t come off until it is taken off.

Soap Used for blocking out the hair, especially the eyebrows. Glycerin soaps or good quality, mild bath soaps can be used.

Sorbitol Corn syrup derivative used in formula gelatin mixtures for gelatin appliances. Available from Burman Industries, Cinema FX, and Alcone.

Spirit Gum (See FIGURE A-28.) An amber colored, alcohol/resin liquid adhesive used to attach crepe hair, wig lace, and other three-dimensional makeup to the skin. There is a difference in the adhesive strength and in drying time among the various brands. Regular spirit gum is shiny when dry. For use with hairlace, a matte gum (dull surface when dry) is preferable. If the brush that comes in the bottle is too small, a larger brush can be used instead. In applying crepe hair, you should wipe the brush from time to time with an old cloth to remove the hair that sticks to it. And it’s a good idea to tape the bottle to your makeup table to avoid the possibility of knocking it over. Or you may prefer to use the spirit-gum bottle holders described below. Spirit gum is available from the various makeup companies and their distributors. Kryolan’s unusually adhesive spirit gum comes in regular, matte, quick-drying, and water-soluble. Their bottle and brush are the best available. In ordering Kryolan spirit gum, be sure to specify the plastic bottle with brush unless you prefer one of the larger, more economical sizes, in which case you can order any number of the small, empty plastic bottles with brushes and fill them yourself. Kryolan also has a thinner spirit gum for those who prefer it. It comes in a square glass bottle with a smaller brush. Ben Nye’s Matte Adhesive Spirit Gum comes in a plastic bottle and is available in both 1-ounce and ½-ounce sizes. Adding a small amount of T-100 to regular spirit gum will produce a matte finish. Joe Blasco and W.M. Creations have superior matte spirit gums.

Spirit-Gum Bottle Holders Lightweight rigid urethane holders for spirit gum and adhesive bottles to prevent spilling and messy accidents. Useful whenever there is an open bottle of spirit gum or adhesive on the dressing table, especially during quick changes. Available from W.M. Creations, Inc.

Spirit-Gum Remover (See Adhesive Removers.) Available from the various makeup companies. Kryolan has an Extra-Mild Spirit-Gum Remover (MME) that is particularly recommended for sensitive skins. Spirit gum can also be removed with alcohol or acetone.

Sponges Natural-silk sponges are used primarily for applying cake or liquid makeup. Red-rubber sponges are used for creating skin-texture effects with stippling and for applying rubber-mask grease. Foam sponges are sometimes used for applying creme makeup or for stippling with latex. Black stipple sponges are, of course, used for stippling. Natural-silk sponges are available from Mehron. Black stipple sponges, redrubber sponges, wedge-cut latex, and polyurethane foam sponges are available from most cosmetic manufacturers and from nearly any place makeup is sold.

Stacolors A 99% alcohol-based pigmented plastic, non-smearing makeup used on gelatin appliances, to cover up and create tattoos, and to cover up bruises and blemishes. Comes in 23 colors including 10 flesh tones. Available from W.M. Creations, Inc.

Stick Makeup Various kinds of makeup are made in stick form—lipsticks, blemish-cover sticks, creme sticks, crayons, beard-stubble adhesive, eyebrow cover, hair white, etc. But the term is used, more often than not, to apply specifically to greasepaint foundation and shading colors in stick form, though it can logically refer to creme sticks as well.

Stone, Dental Comes in powder form to be mixed with water and is used for making casts in the same way as plaster. The resulting cast is harder than plaster and must be used when the cast is to be subjected to considerable pressure. Available from dental supply houses, Burman Industries, and Cinema FX.

Stoppelpaste A wax adhesive for attaching hair particles for simulating beard stubble for the unshaven look. Can be washed off with soap and water. Available from Kryolan. Clear morticians wax can also be used.

Stumps Paper stumps are small, pointed, pencillike rolls of paper sometimes used for shadowing and highlighting. Brushes should be used instead, but stumps are useful for blending when drawing with charcoal and chalk. They can be obtained from any artists’ supply store. Chamois stumps are more expensive but last much longer.

Styptic Stops bleeding from minor cuts. Available in pencil, powder, and liquid from Namies, Frends, and most drugstores.

Tattoo Covers See Concealer and Dermacolor.

Tears Apply glycerin with an eyedropper just below the corner of the eye. Glycerin can be purchased at any pharmacy.

Temple Stick A hair-graying stick made by Kryolan. Available in three colors from Kryolan distributors.

Temporary Tattoos Temporary tattoo products come in the form of paints and transfer sheets. Transfer sheets from Temptu Body Art and Reel Creations contain predesigned tattoo art that can be transferred to the skin using 70% isopropyl alcohol. Body Inks by the same companies can be painted directly onto the skin when original long-lasting designs are preferred. These products are also useful for any makeup design that requires a water-proof or smudge-proof application (i.e., bruises, black eyes, cuts, even foundations, and hair color). Tattoo designs cut from acetate or plastic sheets can be successfully airbrushed onto the skin using Dinair Airbrush makeup.

Texas Dirt An effective body makeup that comes in powder form and is applied with a damp sponge. It can be removed with soap and water. It is available from Mehron in gold, silver, and plain. Mehron’s plain dries with a dull finish; their gold is about the same color but has a gold sheen; and their silver has a silver sheen. (See also Body Makeup and Character Powders.)

Third Degree is a platinum-based silicone prosthetic material. It comes in a two-part formula that is available in three flesh tones, clear, blood red, ice, and violet. It requires no heat to cure, cures in less than 5 minutes and will not break down from heat or perspiration. Use medical adhesive to apply. Offered by Alcone Co. and also sold at the Makeup Designory.

Thixotropy A thixotropic agent, such as Cab-O-Sil, is one that thickens other materials. See Bondo.

Thread Common cotton or silk thread or dental floss is useful in removing nose putty. When the thread is passed between the skin and the putty, most of the putty will come off easily.

Tooth Enamel The enamel is applied to dry teeth with a brush that comes in the bottle. The enamel can be removed by wiping the teeth firmly with cleansing tissues. Any specks of color remaining can be removed by brushing the teeth. The nicotine is particularly effective in aging the teeth. The black can be used for blocking out teeth, shortening them, or making them appear broken. Ben Nye has natural white, black, nicotine, zombie rot, and decay. Mehron has black, nicotine, and gold. Kryolan has black, nicotine, white, ivory, and red.

Toupee Tape A very thin double-sided adhesive film for attaching bald caps, wig lace, and toupees, and for simulating scars. Available as Kryolan’s Leukoflex and Special Tape T, Topstick Toupee Tape from Kryolan distributors, Namies, and Alcone.

T-pins T-shaped pins for securing wigs to wig blocks. They come in various sizes and can be obtained from any wig supply company. Kryolan has a very convenient magnetic container for t-pins.

Tuffy Head A life-size rubber head (face and neck only) that can be used for making beards with a latex base rather than making them directly on the face. If the beard is to be sprayed, it should be done with the beard on the Tuffy head rather than on the face. The Tuffy head is available from Kryolan distributors.

Tuplast A thick, liquid plastic that can be used on the skin to build up three-dimensional scars. It can also be used in open molds to make three-dimensional molded pieces. (Eye pouches, for example, can be made in much the same way as in using gelatin. Edges can be dissolved with acetone for blending.) Available from Kryolan distributors.

TS-100 A clay-based matting agent usually added to spirit gum and other adhesives to remove the characteristic shine.

Tweezers Handy for removing stray hairs when shaping eyebrows and dressing crepe-hair beards or mustaches or in attaching small latex pieces.

244 Fluid A silicone brush cleaner designed to dissolve oils and grease. Used also for cleaning plastilina out of molds. It is safe on the skin and has no fumes. Also used as a mold release agent.

Ultra Ice This clear face-building gel simulates ice on the face and body. It is a flexible, sculptable gel that visually becomes part of the actor’s skin, transmitting the most subtle expression and movement. Available from Alcone and Namies.

Ultracal 30 A gypsum cement-based powder to be mixed with water and used for making molds when casting foam latex and gelatin appliances. Available from Burman Industries, Cinema FX, and from your local pottery or ceramics supplier. Add Acryl 60 to Ultracal 30 to increase its structural strength and hardness. Also available from Burman Industries.

Velvet Stick Stein’s trade name for creme stick.

Ventilating Needles Used for knotting hair into net or gauze for wigs or beards (see Chapters 14 and 15). Available from Kryolan, Alcone, or any wigmakers’ supply company. They should be ordered by number, the smallest usually being 00 or 0, and are often available in six sizes. The needle holder is ordered separately.

Weaving Frames For weaving hair into wefts. Available from wigmakers’ supply houses.

Wig Blocks (See Chapter 15.) Canvas and wood blocks available from Kryolan and other wigmakers’ supply houses. Lightweight, durable urethane wig blocks from 21 inches to 24½ inches are also available from Mane-Sta’.

Wig Hangers Kryolan has a lightweight, easily stored wig hanger made of cloth-covered wire. It is available in two styles—N for hanging from a hook and K for hanging over a rod. Available from Kryolan distributors.

Wig Lace A net foundation used in making wigs, toupees, beards, and mustaches (see Chapters 14 and 15). Available from Mane-Sta is a nonfraying lace impervious to 99% alcohol and acetone. It comes in two grades: film quality (20 denier) and prosthetic grade. Also available from Kryolan in five grades. Numbers 01 and 0 are their finest flesh-colored nylon lace, excellent for street wear or for films but finer than necessary for the stage. Number 1 is only slightly less fine. Number 2 is a more durable lace, practical for stage wear. Number 3 is strong and slightly stiff nylon netting, which can be used by students for practice in ventilating as a substitute for the rather fragile hair lace. Available from Kryolan distributors. Alcone also carries wigmaking supplies including wig lace. Also see Wig and Hair Resources in Appendix B.