APPENDIXG Makeups in Color

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Concealer:	Laura Mercier #4 (higher value than #6)
Foundation:	Laura Mercier #6
Powder:	LeClerc Banana on center of face LeClerc Bronze around the outer areas Il Maquillage Banana in a half moon under each eye
Eyeshadow:	Ben Nye Fireworks Creme Fantasy Wheel in Gold, Copper, Diamond Ice
Eyeliner:	M.A.C. Black Creme
Blush:	M.A.C. Cheek (warm orange/gold tone)
Contour:	pinky-brown tone on the cheeks, temple, sides of nose
Brows:	Maybelline Blonde Pencil
Lip pencil:	M.A.C. Spice
Lipstick:	M.A.C. Twig
Mascara:	Maybelline Great Lash

Concealer:	RCMA Chinese I and II (light yellow tone) under eyes and on T-section.
Foundation:	Laura Mercier SC 4 (center of the face) & SC 6 (around the edges)
Creme Blush:	William Tuttle Blusher, a pinky-peach tone on apple of cheeks, forehead and temple
Powder:	LeClerc Banana at center of face LeClerc Bronze along the rest of face and outer edges. Blend well.
Eyeshadow:	M.A.C. Black creme liner in crease (blend edges with orange toned blush) White pencil along lower rim
Eyeliner:	M.A.C. Black creme liner
Blush:	M.A.C. Cheek (warm orange/gold tone)
Contour:	Pinkish/brown tone to add warmth into the edges of the face and to shape and shade nose
Brows:	M.A.C. Black cream liner with a light application near the center
Lip pencil:	M.A.C. Spice liner, M.A.C. Brun fill-in
Lipstick:	M.A.C. Viva Glam to cover

(Makeup and photograph courtesy of Kate Best)

Concealer:	MAC. C-2 (light yellow tone) under the eyes and on the T-section
Foundation:	M.A.C. C-3 (slightly yellow)
Powder:	N-2 adds a bit of pink to the foundation. One shade lighter than foundation.
Eyeshadow:	M.A.C. Vanilla all over (lashline to brows) M.A.C. Chill as highlight, MA.C. Stencil (pale apricot) on lid and crease M.A.C. Ocre in crease, blend up and out with M.A.C. Rule (bright orange) adds the effect of bright skin color
Eyeliner:	M.A.C. Black creme liner, blend and soften the edges with Rule White pencil along lower rim
Blush:	M.A.C. Cheek (pinkish/peach), blend into the surrounding skin tone with M.A.C. Rule (golden/orange) add a bit of M.A.C. Melba (irridescent)
Contour:	M.A.C. Buff (pinkish/peachy and slightly brown) below cheek
Brows:	Taupe pencil with a lighter application near the center.
Lip pencil:	M.A.C. Spice (scarlet)
Lipstick:	M.A.C. Russian Red

(Makeup and photograph courtesy of Kate Best)

Step 1	Concealer: Apply concealer under the eye area, along the T-section of the face and over any discolorations. Use Kryolan’s Dermacolor #D1.5 and #D2.
Step 2	Foundation: Apply L’Oreal Hydra Perfecte Nude Beige foundation with a sponge over the entire face. Blend well towards the neck and hairline.
Step 3	Powder: Set foundation with LeClerc loose powder—Camille, with a sponge or puff.
Step 4	Eyeshadow: Apply Il Maquillage pressed eyeshadow—Banana, over the entire eye lid up to the brows and at the inner edge of the eye.
Step 5	Highlight the brow bone and the inner edge of the lower lid with Vanilla shadow by M.A.C. For extra highlight on brow bone and in a half moon shape on the upper lid close to the lashes use Chill shadow by M.A.C. (use M.A.C. brush #29.)
Step 6	Apply M.A.C.’s Omega shadow as a contour in the crease of the eye. Begin at the outer edge brushing it three quarters of the way across the lid leaving the inner edge of the eye open. Using a blending brush, blend “up and out” with Coffee by Il Maquillage to soften.
Step 7	Apply Coffee lightly to the lower lid at the lash line and blend with Omega for balance.
Step 8	Eyeliner: Apply Ebony Pencil to the back of the hand. Pick up a small amount with an eyeliner brush and with the tip of the brush apply short, controlled even strokes as close to the lashes as possible. Blend with a small blending brush (clean this brush constantly!)
Step 9	Repeat #8 along the lower lid beginning at the center and blending toward the outside corner.
Step 10	Blush: To contour, apply Coffee on the temples and below cheekbone with a blush brush. Add Peach dry blush by Shu Uemura on the apple of the cheeks, the temples, the tip of the nose and along the jawline.
Step 11	Lips: The lips are lined with Maybelline’s Light Brown lip pencil and filled in with Retro by M.A.C. Set with powder.
Step 12	Brows: Carefully line the brows with Maybelline’s Blonde pencil. Starting at the center, draw a light line at the lower edge of the brow up to the arch. Finish the tail of the brow on the top line. Straighten the top line of the brow with the Blonde pencil. Fill in most of the brow with what ever remains on the Omega brush. Note: Leave the inner edge of the brow SOFT! Do not add color to this area. (Shu Uemura #60B can also be used for eyebrows.)

*Use Maybelline black mascara

(Makeup and photograph courtesy of Kate Best)

(*The silicone negative will hold its shape and can be re-used for other castings.)

Christien Tinsley, creator of Tinsley Transfers: While working on the film Pearl Harbor Mr. Tinsley developed temporary tattoos to create cuts and bruises. He was working on more than 40 extras a day adding cuts and bruises and his creation saved time on the set. Tinsley Transfers, Inc. is now a growing business serving the entertainment industry. The process known as “prosthetic transfer” was invented by Mr. Tinsley for The Passion of the Christ. This process earned him a nomination for an Academy Award. He continues to create innovations and work on a wide range of projects.

A. Shakespeare’s Comedy of Errors.

B. Shakespeare’s The Tempest.

C. Brechton Brecht.

D. Manet, an original musical, costume design by Karen Weller.

E. Seascape, by Edward Albee, costume design by Karen Weller.

 

The following photos were taken under color media that corresponds as closely as possible to the gel colors listed in Chapter 4, on page 14. The models have a variety of hair and skin colors and are wearing a basic corrective makeup. They are students in the theater program at California State University, Fullerton.

Product List for Faded Feline Makeup

Makeup: Rick Geyer	Makeup & Wig Design: Paul Hadobas
Model: Amanda Elliott	Produced for Ben Nye Catalog

1. The design by Paul Hadobas combines elements both feline and human, with dramatic touches of age and faded glamour.

2. Block out brows with wax. A mottled texture overall is achieved by stippling 3 shades of creme makeup, neutralizing the pink in the skin underneath while keeping it somewhat sheer. The muzzle is based with a red neutralizer mixed with white.

3. Additional creme highlights are added to flatten the nose, and bring out the cheekbones and brow. Creme contours are brushapplied to sides of nose, and softly blended.

4. After setting the blended creme with a neutral powder, the eyes begin to get shaped with an iridescent purple shadow.

5. The feline tip of the nose and muzzle are defined with liquid liner, as is the eye crease, bringing the inner corners in and down. Lite Auguste and Azalea under the lower lash will lend teary-eyed quality.

6. Pressed shadows in shades of taupe and grey feather the lower lash line, and are also used to bring texture to the jaw line. Silver shimmer powder (wet) on the eyelid, and dry blended softly just above the crease.

7. Mouth shape sketched in with pencil. Brows shaped with downward slant, first in pressed shadow in black, then given more crisp graphic “hair” in small short strokes with pancake, in black, gray, and white.

8. Texture to the neck is done with cool brown pancake applied with the narrow end of a pre-cut foam sponge, then softened with pressed shadows in grayer tones. A pair of dramatic false eyelashes, selected for their density and ragged tips are a big part of taking the “glamorous” quality over the top.The wig is added, and blends well into the painted texture at the hair-line. Mole and whiskers have been sketched with a small liner brush in black pancake. The deep red on the lips has a smudge outside the liner to add to the effect of wear and tear. The additional fur-like texture is dry pressed shadow applied with a thick liner brush to taper it, and is complimentary to the painted graphics on the body stocking. (udiciously applied glitter around the eyes make the character come to life under the lights.

Product List for Uncle Jinxy Makeup

Note: Use water-based Cake colors for hard lines, or bold, solid coloring.
Use Pressed Powders for more gradual shading and transparent coloring.

Makeup & Wig: Paul Hadobas	Model: Robert Luke
Produced for Ben Nye Catalog

1. Block out brows. Draw general guidelines with White Pencil.

2. Apply Light Peach to center area of design and Dark Peach to outer area of design. Highlight forehead, nose and chin with Ivory. Apply white to the muzzle. The muzzle is the brightest area of the design and appears to protrude from the face. Powder thoroughly with colorless powder, removing excess with powder brush.

3. Paint fake brow and line eyes with Dark Brown cake. Paint Rust cake under brow. Create “new” eyelids and highlight beneath brow with Yellow cake. Apply Light Orange pressed on lids above Yellow and contour sides of nose.

4. Create “new” eye crease with Dark Orange pressed; deepen with Mocha pressed. Define crease with Light Brown cake.

5. Line beneath lower lashes with White cake to open and brighten eyes. Line above Dark Brown eye liner with White cake. Mix cake with LiquiSet in place of water for durability.

Contour cheeks with Light Orange, Dark Orange and Rusty Red pressed (light to dark from top to bottom).

6. Highlight forehead and “apples” of cheeks with Vanilla pressed to enhance roundness. “Wash” cheeks and forehead with Melon pressed.

7. “Wrinkles” extended beyond outer corners of eyes imply friendliness. Paint top wrinkle with Black cake, bottom with Light Brown Cake.

Line lower muzzle, lower lip and eyes with Black cake. Define top of muzzle, white “beard” and beneath cheek contour with Light Brown cake. Paint nose with Dark Brown cake. Add muzzle contour with Maize cake.

8. Add stripes at forehead with Rust and Red-Brown cakes, blending up and into wig stripes of same shade. Fade stripes onto forehead with Mocha pressed.

Paint stripes at chin with Yellow, Maize and Light Brown cakes.

Product List for Puck Makeup

Matte Foundations

CN-001 Clair

CN-002 Barely Beige

Highlight

HY-1 Special Yellow

Highlight

Shadows/Contours

FS-3 Olive-Beard Cover

Powder & Rouge

TP-5 Neutral Set

(Colorless)

LX-6 Indian Copper

(Bronzer)

DR-7 Coral Rouge

Eye Colors

ES-44 Goldenrod

Pressed Shadow

LX-8 Chartreuse Luxe

LX-61 Sun Yellow Luxe

EP-85 Espresso Pencil

Brows

EP-4 Med Brown Pencil

ES-60 Bark Shadow

Lip Colors

LS-19 Mocha Rose

Lipstick

LG-01 Natural Lip Gloss

Body Colors

PC-41 Shinsei Fair

PC-19 Dark Egyptian*

PC-21 Golden Ebony*

CF-19 Rust MagiCake*

AG-1 Gold Aqua Glitter

LQ-2 LiquiSet

FY-2 Final Seal

* Premix brown cake colors to match costume

Makeup: Christina Knapp	Model: Alia Tracy
Produced for Ben Nye Catalog

1. Block out outer half of brows, leaving inside corners “natural”. Apply powder over wax. Apply prosthetic ears with Spirit Gum or adhesive of choice.

2. Apply a sheer application of foundation to face, ears and neck with a sponge or foundation brush. Apply Special Yellow Highlight to center of the forehead, nose and chin; blend. With Olive-Beard Cover, contour eyelids, cheeks and sides of nose. Press loose powder into blended makeup with a puff. Remove excess with reverse side of puff or a powder brush.

3. To catch “fall out” from colored powders, liberally apply loose powder beneath eye area. Powder may be dusted off and reapplied as needed. With Medium Brown Pencil, define fantasy brow at slight upward angle. Apply Bark Shadow over pencil with angle brush (AB-8), tapering at ends. Mix Indian Copper with water and paint over shadowed brows with angle brush.

Apply Coral rouge to cheeks with rouge brush. With a Petite Powder Brush (FDB-1), contour sides of nose, continuing beneath brow to mid-point with Coral.

With a small tapered brush (FDB-3), apply Goldenrod Shadow to inside corners of both upper and lower eyelids. Apply Chartreuse from center of lid, outward and upward, following angle of the brow. Apply Sun Yellow above Chartreuse, blending where colors meet.

4. With small tapered brush, apply Chartreuse to lower lashline. Sweep outer corners up to blend with Chartreuse on upper lid. With a full rouge or powder brush, lightly bronze face with a dusting of Indian Copper Luxe Powder.

5. With Espresso Pencil, line upper and lower lashlines. Mix lipstick with lip gloss and apply to lips. Apply Fireworks Gold highlight to center of lower lip. Apply Sun Yellow highlight above brows.

6. Apply Shinsei Fair Color Cake with damp hydra or sea sponge to arms, legs and visible body. Apply premixed brown cake to legs, shadowing random pattern of costume.

7. Mix Chartreuse with LiquiSet to form a creamy consistency. Apply to finger tips and toe tips. Apply random streaks of Gold Aqua Glitter to arms, hands, legs and feet. Spray finished makeup with Final Seal.

8. Add wig and additional trim to complete the “organic” look.

A. Model Cole Noble.

B. Apply Ben Nye Red Neutralizer over discolorations using a foam sponge. Mehron ProColoRing Concealer in Soft Sandalwood and Honey Glaze are being stippled with a brush over the Port Wine Stain; lightly powder with Ben Nye Visage Poudre Buff. Apply Joe Blasco's Warm Beige creme foundation. Contour with Ben Nye Cinnamon. Powder with Ben Nye BV-71 Beige Suede. Add a bit a color with Blasco's warm Cocoa dry blush.

C. Finished makeup application.

A. Dick Smith applying H-10 (Gafquat 734+ mustache wax + alcohol) to F. Murray Abraham to smooth and control the hair before applying the plastic bald pate (bald caps cover the entire head.) The bald pate was made from a Union Carbide plasticizer called VYNS. The plastic bald pate and forehead appliance were then glued on with Dow 355 Adhesive (this product has been discontinued, substitute Pros-Aide, Telesis Adhesives or others, see Appendix A—Adhesives.)

B. Contact lenses, with the arcus senilus hand painted around the edge of the iris designed to add an ageing effect to the eye, are inserted.

C. Applying beard Stubble. Stubble is made from short (½ or smaller) lengths of crimped (kinky) yak hair. Attach hairs by hand into a slightly tacky Secure Adhesive (Factor II) applied over the PAX paint. Give the adhesive a matte finish by slowly mixing in the matting agent Cab-OSil.

D. F. Murray Abraham as Solieri for the film, Amadeus. (Makeup created by Dick Smith.)