Starting as the Roman settlement of Barcino, the city grew over the years, culminating in a building boom in the 14th and 15th centuries. Barri Gòtic is a beautifully-preserved neighbourhood of Gothic buildings, squares and atmospheric alleys, with the cathedral at its religious and social heart a reminder of its medieval heyday. Extending east of Barri Gòtic is the ancient barri of La Ribera, with lovely Carrer Montcada and the Museu Picasso.
Soaring over the Barri Gòtic is Barcelona’s mighty cathedral, which dates from 1298.
Discover the youthful output (see Museu Picasso) of one of the most revered artists of the 20th century.
The city’s most prestigious concert hall is a breathtaking monument to both la música Catalana and the Modernista aesthetic.
Palau de la Generalitat: 012 (within the city); open 10:30am–1:30pm second & fourth Sat & Sun of the month for guided tours, advance booking essential; www.president.cat/pres_gov/president/ca/presidencia/palau-generalitat/visites.html • Ajuntament: open 10am–1:30pm Sun for guided tours (English at 10am)
The site of the Plaça de Sant Jaume was once the nucleus of Roman Barcino. With these roots, it seems fitting that the square is home to Barcelona’s two most important government buildings: the Palau de la Generalitat (the seat of Catalonian parliament) and the Ajuntament (city hall). Look for the detailed carved relief of Sant Jordi, Catalonia’s patron saint, on the 15th-century Generalitat façade. Within is the beautiful 1434 Capella de Sant Jordi. A highlight of the Gothic 15th-century Ajuntament is the Saló de Cent, from where the Council of One Hundred ruled Barcelona from 1372 to 1714. Also of note is the Pati dels Tarongers, a lovely arcaded courtyard planted with orange trees and overlooked by interesting gargoyles.
Pl del Rei • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat (to 8pm Sun) • Adm; free first Sun of the month, every Sun after 3pm • www.barcelona.cat/museuhistoria/en
The medieval Plaça del Rei contains the core site of the Museu d’Història de Barcelona, encompassing remains ranging from Roman Barcino to the Middle Ages. These include Casa Padellàs (see Museu d’Història de Barcelona (MUHBA)) and the Palau Reial, which contains the Capella de Santa Àgata and the Saló del Tinell, a massive arched hall where Ferdinand and Isabel met Columbus after his 1492 voyage to the Americas. The museum also has one of the largest underground excavations of Roman ruins on display in Europe, including a 2nd-century laundry and dyeing workshop and 3rd-century garum factory and winery.
Late 19th-century elegance meets sangria-drinking café society in the arcaded Plaça Reial, one of the city’s most entertaining squares (see Plaça Reial). The Modernista lampposts were designed by Gaudí in 1879, and at its centre is a wrought-iron fountain representing the Three Graces. The palm-lined square has a cluster of restaurants, bars and cafés that are constantly busy.
Pl de Sant Iu 5–6 • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat, 11am–8pm Sun • Adm; free first Sun of the month, every Sun after 3pm • www.museumares.bcn.cat
This fascinating museum houses the collection of wealthy Catalan sculptor Frederic Marès. No mere hobby collector, the astute (and obsessive) Marès amassed holdings that a modern museum curator would die for. Among them is an array of religious icons and statues, dating from Roman times to the present, and the curious “Museu Sentimental”, which displays everything from ancient watches to fans and dolls. Also worth a visit during summer is Cafè d’Estiu, a sunny spot for a break on the museum’s patio.
Pl de Santa Maria 1 • Open 9am–1pm & 5–8:30pm Mon–Sat, 10am–2pm & 5–8pm Sun • Guided tours 1:15pm, 2pm, 3pm & 5:15pm daily • Adm for guided tours (includes rooftop visit) • www.santamariadelmarbarcelona.org
The spacious, breathtaking interior of this 14th-century church (see Església de Santa Maria del Mar), designed by architect Berenguer de Montagut, is the city’s premier example of the austere Catalan Gothic style. The church is dedicated to St Mary of the Sea, the patron saint of sailors, and an ancient model ship hangs near one of the statues of the Virgin. Dubbed “the people’s church”, this is a popular spot for exchanging wedding vows.
C/Montcada 14 • Open 10am–8:30pm daily • Adm; free first Sun of the month, every Sun after 3pm • museu culturesmon.bcn.cat/en
The Museum of World Cultures, in the 16th-century Nadal and Marqués de Llió palaces, showcases the cultures of Asia, Africa, America and Oceania. Highlights include Hindu sculptures, Japanese paintings, Nazca ceramics, brass plaques from Benin and indigenous Australian art.
Singagoga Major: C/Marlet 2; 93 317 07 90; Adm • Centro d’Interpretació del Call: Plaçeta del Manuel Ribé s/n; 93 256 21 22; Adm
El Call was home to one of Spain’s largest Jewish communities until their expulsion in the 15th century. Some original buildings have survived, although a small (now restored) synagogue, believed to be one of the oldest in Europe, is on Carrer de Marlet. There is also an interpretation centre dedicated to El Call, run by the city’s history museum.
If you’re hankering for a proper martini or some alternative jazz, then look no further than El Born, a sleepy-turned-hip neighbourhood “reborn” several years ago. Students and artists moved in, attracted by cheap rents and airy warehouses, fostering an arty vibe that now blends in with the area’s old-time aura. Experimental design shops share the narrow streets with traditional balconied buildings festooned with laundry hung out to dry. The buzzing Passeig de Born, lined with bars and cafés, leads onto the inviting Plaça Comercial, where the cavernous Born Market (in operation 1870–1970) has been converted into a cultural centre and exhibition space.
Start at the Jaume I metro stop. Walk up Via Laietana to the Plaça de Ramon Berenguer el Gran, which is backed by an impressive stretch of Roman walls. Return to the metro and turn right onto C/Jaume I to get to the Plaça de Sant Jaume, the site of the old Roman forum. Leading off to the left is C/Ciutat, which becomes C/Regomir: at No. 3 is Pati Llimona (see Carrer Regomir and Carrer del Correu Vell), with an extensive section of Roman walls, one of the four main gateways into the city and the ruins of some thermal baths. There’s a good, inexpensive café at Pati Llimona, or you can enjoy a light lunch at Bliss (Plaça de Sant Just).
Return to the Plaça de Sant Jaume and cross it into tiny C/Paradís, where you’ll find vestiges of the Temple d’August, a MUHBA site. At the end of the street, turn right and make for the Plaça del Rei. Stop for coffee at the Café-Bar L’Antiquari before visiting the Museu d’Història de Barcelona (MUHBA), where you can explore the remains of Roman Barcino. Walk back to C/Comtes, which flanks Barcelona Cathedral, turn right and cross Plaça Nova to C/Arcs, which leads to Avinguda Portal de l’Àngel. Turn left down C/Canuda to reach the Plaça de la Vila de Madrid, where several Roman sarcophagi, found outside the walls according to Roman tradition, are arranged along an old Roman road.
Medieval Carrer del Bisbe is flanked by the Gothic Cases dels Canonges (House of Canons) and the Palau de la Generalitat (see Plaça de Sant Jaume). Connecting the two is an eye-catching 1928 Neo-Gothic arched stone bridge.
At the weekend, amateur opera singers perform on this medieval street, home to the Casa de l’Ardiaca, which has a pretty little patio with palm trees and a fountain.
C/Regomir 6–8
This chapel dedicated to Sant Cristòfor, the patron saint of travellers, dates from 1503, although it was remodeled in the 1890s. Drivers bring their cars to the chapel annually on the saint’s feast day (25 July) to be blessed.
The “palace row” of La Ribera is lined with Gothic architectural gems, including the 15th-century Palau Aguilar, which is now home to the Museu Picasso, and the 17th-century Palau Dalmases with its Gothic chapel, which hosts flamenco performances.
This square boasts one of the largest preserved sections of Barcelona’s impressive Roman walls.
Find splendid Roman remains on Carrer Regomir, most notably in the medieval Pati Llimona. Two Roman towers can be seen on nearby Carrer del Correu Vell, and there are ruins of Roman walls on the Plaça Traginers.
Sunlight filters through tall trees in this hidden oasis of calm. The plaça is home to the Museu del Calçat, which showcases footwear.
This well-maintained medieval street is lined with traditional granges and xocolateries (cafés and chocolate shops). The famous Sala Parés art gallery, which once exhibited Picasso, Casas and other Catalan contemporaries, is also found here.
This Gothic church, completed in 1342, has sculptures dating back to the 9th century and 5th-century Visigothic baptismal fonts.
Mere paces from La Rambla is the unexpected tranquillity of this Romanesque church with its leafy 15th-century Gothic cloister.
La Rambla 83
If the glistening pastries and towering chocolate creations aren’t enough of a lure, then the Modernista storefront certainly is. Buy goodies to go or enjoy them in the café.
C/Avinyó 7
What do Pope John Paul II, Jack Nicholson, Salvador Dalí, sardana dancers and legions of Barcelonins have in common? They all bought their alpargatas or exquisite handmade espadrilles and straw hats at this traditional shoe shop.
C/Rec 65
Divine women’s accessories, fashions and toiletries can be found in this loft-style store. Among the labels stocked here are top Spanish and French names, such as Hoss, Intropia and See by Chloé.
C/Fontanella 20
This traditional hat shop celebrated its centenary in 2017, and offers a fine range of headwear (including the traditional Catalan beret) for men and women.
C/Esparteria 1
Handcrafted, beautiful bags and purses by Barcelonin designer Beatriz Furest are on sale in this small, chic boutique.
C/Cucurulla 2
Sink your teeth into the Spanish nougat-and-almond speciality torró. Casa Colomina, established in 1908, offers a tantalizing array, including chocolate and marzipan varieties.
Baixada Llibreteria 7
Founded in 1761, this is the city’s oldest shop crammed with every kind of candle imaginable, from plain white to waxy works of art.
C/Agullers 7
This is one of the city’s best wine merchants stocking a range of wines and spirits. An adjoining shop sells quality Spanish delicacies, including hams, cheeses and olive oil.
C/Santa Anna 27
This long-established shop is the place to visit for colourful hand-painted fans, handmade gloves, delicately embroidered mantillas and shawls, ornamental combs and other traditional Spanish accessories.
C/Banys Nous 20
Find amazing antique clothing from flapper dresses to boned corsets, silk shawls, puff-sleeved shirts and pin-tucked shirt fronts here. They specialise in antique wedding dresses.
C/Ferran 23
Fronted by large windows over looking the throngs on Carrer Ferran, this spacious bar draws a sociable mix of visitors and locals.
C/Bellafila 3
An old-fashioned, dark-wood elevator – ascensor in Catalan and Spanish – serves as the entrance to this dimly lit, convivial bar frequented by a cocktail-swil ling crowd.
Pl Comercial 10
Located opposite the El born Centre de Cultura i Memòriaon, this café offers good coffee and cakes, and a decent range of salads, sandwiches and light meals. It attracts a relaxed, arty crowd who linger over their news papers and fast WiFi.
C/Gignàs 21
Decorated like a luxurious living room with elegant sofas, golden picture frames, chandeliers and 1950s-style wallpaper, Milk serves brunch (from 9am to 4:30pm), lunch and dinner daily.
C/Palma de Sant Just 1 • Closed Sun & Mon
An elegant bar that serves fine wines, champagne, cava, cocktails and a variety of creative tapas to a glamorous crowd.
Pl Reial 3
Occupying a prime corner of Plaça Reial, this atmospheric café-bar brings in all types. Grab a spot on the terrace for a front-row view of activities on the plaça.
Pl Santa Maria 5
A classy yet cosy bar, attracting wine lovers from all over the city who come to sample a rich array of Spanish and interna tional varieties.
C/Consellers 4
Creative experimentation, including molecular “cocktelery”, at this unique bar produces highly original cocktails at good prices. The lounge upstairs has vintage furniture and an old piano, and hosts pocket-size painting exhibitions.
C/Rec 24 • Closed Sun & Mon
The original cocktail bar in El Born, the intimate, 1950s-style Juanra Falces pours excellent (read: potent) cocktails for locals.
C/Vidrieria 15
This long-time favourite has circular marble tables, black-and-white tiled floors and an informal “everybody’s welcome” vibe.
Pl Reial 17 • Adm • www.masimas.com/jamboree
This Barri Gòtic institution has live jazz every night (8pm–midnight). It then morphs into a dance club, with DJs spinning every thing from hip-hop to R&B and salsa.
Pl Reial 17 • Adm • www.masimas.com
Next door to Jamboree, Tarantos is the oldest flamenco club in Barcelona. It has three daily perform - ances of flamenco guitar playing, singing and dancing – at 8:30, 9:30 and 10:30pm – by local emerging artists and occasional big names.
Pl Reial 7 • Adm • Closed Sun
Barcelona’s music scene is like a motorcycle to which Sidecar is inseparably bound. Partygoers come for music, cabaret and good food.
C/Comtessa de Sobradiel 8 • Closed Mon, concerts from 10:30pm • Adm • www.harlemjazzclub.es
Dark and smoky, this kick-back jazz haunt showcases a choice line-up of jazz and blues, flamen co fusion, reggae and African music.
C/Mercè 27
A fun bar that features fantastically kitsch and colourful decor.
C/Còdols 29
A fabulously quirky bar with 80s-style decor and great retro sounds. Drinks are well priced and usually come with big bowls of free popcorn. Be sure to get here early – the place is always packed.
C/l Pas de l’Ensenyança 2 • Adm • www.elparaigua.com
This pretty fin de siècle café has an intimate basement venue that stages live music from jazz to folk and blues.
C/Nou de Zurbano 3 • Closed Sun & Mon
With a great location next to the Plaça Reial, this club has minimal ist, elegant decor and a small dance floor. There are occasional live music and flamenco concerts.
C/Escudellers 49 • DA
An intimate club featuring local and international DJs and upbeat live music every day of the week.
Pl Reial 10 • Adm • Closed Mon
The hippie origins and 1970s glamour of this club are as popular with partygoers as ever.
Pl de Sant Iu 5–6 • 93 310 30 14
This terrace café on the patio of the Museu Frederic Marès is replete with stone pillars, climbing ivy and orange trees. Your museum ticket entitles you to a discount.
C/de la Princesa 28 • Open 8:30am–9:30pm daily
With a bright yellow interior and benches to sit, this bakery serves amazing cakes and cookies. Fresh juices and cold-pressed coffee make this the perfect place for a stopover.
C/Veguer 13 • 93 461 95 89
By day, sit by the window and enjoy views of the medieval old town. By night, sip cocktails in the Baroque-inspired upstairs lounge.
C/Rec Comtal 11 • 93 501 66 11
With its leather armchairs and big windows, this is the perfect place to enjoy a long, lazy brunch, with dishes ranging from classic patates braves to salmon sushi.
C/Sant Domenec del Call 4 • 93 302 50 28 • Open 1pm–1am daily
Enjoy tea and sweet Arab cakes. Don’t miss the sardo, an Oriental-style pizza with a variety of fillings.
Pl Sant Just • 93 268 10 22
Stop at this delightful café while exploring the Barri Gòtic. It offers divine cakes, light meals, snacks and coffee. Ask for an outside table in summer.
C/Lluís el Piadós 2 • 93 269 13 35
With outside tables overlooking the square, this relaxed café offers French dishes and wines, good coffee and brunch.
C/Palla 8 • 93 302 69 93
Up the stairs of this shop you will find preserves and other foods, all made in Spain’s convents and monasteries. Sample the delicacies downstairs at the site of the 15th-century baths.
C/Petritxol 11 • 93 302 20 36 • Closed from 1–4pm daily, 1–5pm Sun
This family-run xocolateria has long been serving up thick, dark hot chocolate with xurros (fried, sugary dough strips) for dunking.
C/Montcada 2 • 93 268 30 03 • Closed Sun
Savour Spanish tapas with a French twist here. Try the pig’s trotters with foie gras or the squid ink croquettes.
Pl de Sant Agustí Vell 1 • 93 319 90 56 • Closed Mon and L Tue • €
Opened in 1925 and still boasting the original marble tables, this classic tapas bar is one of the best. The menu changes constantly.
Pl de les Olles 8 • 93 310 79 61 • Closed Sun, Mon L, Aug • €€
Taste a variety of delicious tapas, including the finest seafood, at this busy, established eatery.
C/Lledó 1 • 93 319 82 53 • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug • €€
Located in an 18th-century building, this excellent restaurant serves superb modern Catalan cuisine and top-notch desserts.
Passeig del Born 36 • 93 319 30 88 • Open until midnight daily (1am Fri, Sat) • €€
This pretty bistro uses seasonal produce in imaginative dishes and tapas. The fried artichokes with romesco sauce are a must.
C/Fusina 5 • 93 319 62 50 • €€
Enjoy fresh seasonal produce, including vegetables from their own garden and Mediterranean red prawns, in a cool, loft-style interior with exposed brickwork and warm woodwork adding to the atmosphere.
C/Gignàs 16 • 93 315 17 09 • Closed Sun D & Mon, 1 week in Jan, Aug • €€
Established in 1924, this friendly family restaurant has been delighting patrons with excellent Catalan cuisine at reasonable prices.
Palma de Sant Just 7 • 93 315 06 56 • Closed Sun • €
This bohemian restaurant in a former wine cellar offers a delicious choice of tapas, including stuffed Piquillo peppers.
C/Palau 5 • 93 318 69 26 • Closed Mon • €€
Proponents of the slow food movement, the owners of this stylish, loft-style restaurant serve delicious vegetarian and vegan dishes along with organic wines and beer.
C/Montcada 22 • 93 319 70 03 • Closed Sun D & Mon • €
An old-fashioned bar popular for its cava and range of simple tapas.
Pl Vila de Madrid 4 • 93 318 77 29 • Closed Sun & Mon D • €
This simple eatery serves up vegetarian Indian main dishes and delectable desserts, but no alcohol.
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), including taxes and extra charges.
€ under €35 €€ €35–50 €€€ over €50