many epoxies including a thin penetrating epoxy
designed for this type of work that is low VOC and
environmentally friendly.
Oils (the Good Kind)
Water poly is more of a top-coat that wraps a
protective layer around the work. If you want
something that penetrates the wood pores, you
are looking for oil. Mineral oil and linseed oil are
old-fashioned, tried-and-true wood finishes that
are inexpensive, readily available, and not horrible
for the world. Linseed oil is made from flax (it’s
also known as flaxseed oil) and, by itself, makes
a fine finish that leaves wood darker, richer,
and feeling natural. Sometimes it is mixed with
turpentine and other less pleasant things, but this
is not necessary. Read on for my favorite recipe.
Mineral oil is made from petroleum but highly
cleaned and distilled. I buy it in my local drug
store as it is also used as a laxative and relatively
benign. I understand why one might not want to
use anything petroleum-based but it is certainly
better than many of the alternatives and is food-
safe right out of the bottle. You can literally drink it!
A few years ago I melted some wax from a local
beekeeper and made my own polishes. One was
beeswax and linseed, the other mineral oil and
wax, mixed about 50/50. I love using these and the
wax adds to the protection. Telling clients you use
a homemade finish is also a plus.
There are many other kinds of plant-based
oil products out there like Walrus Oil (walrusoil.
com), Odie’s Oil (odiesoil.com) and SafeCoat
(afmsafecoat.com), to name a few, but I have not
used them so I cannot speak to their quality. One I
have used and love is Rubio Monocoat (monocoat.
us). Monocoat is a 2-part plant oil and hardener
that you mix and apply with a cloth or foam
brush. It is expensive but a little goes a very long
way. Use it sparingly and you’ll get your money’s
worth. Monocoat creates a fantastic, low sheen,
penetrating finish that is hard to beat if you like
the “au naturale” look and feel. And it smells
really good.
Tung oil is another natural oil made from
the nuts of the tung tree. It provides a safe and
hardened finish — but beware! Many products
described as tung oil are chemical concoctions
that will make you dizzy, literally. While based on
tung and linseed oils, Danish oil is another brew
that is usually full of pretty bad stuff.
Read the Label
Perhaps the most important thing you can do is
be aware of what you are buying beyond the logo
and pretty pictures on the can. Many products
may be packaged and named to look “green,” but
read the fine print. Manufacturers are required to
list the ingredients. If there are words in there you
have never heard, take a minute to look them up
(thanks, smartphones!). You’ll feel better knowing
what you’re using — physically and emotionally
— and knowing that environmentally friendly
finishes add value to your work.
117
makeprojects.com
To learn more about volatile organic
compounds, visit epa.gov and search
for VOC.
Reclaimed cumaru finished with nothing but my
homemade beeswax and mineral oil polish.
This reclaimed chestnut was first treated with boiled
linseed oil to penetrate and bring out the natural beauty.
Then, after drying for days, it was covered with a 2-part
epoxy finish.