Chapter 2: Setting Up Your Speedlites

This chapter digs deeper and examines the nuts and bolts you need to understand to get your Speedlites set up for wireless off- camera operation as well on-camera use. Did you notice how I first mentioned wireless off-camera use? It’s my not-so-subtle way of nudging you in that direction. Of course, I cover all the settings needed for on-camera flash as well, but for the best results, get your flash off your camera! (Sorry, I couldn’t help myself.)

When you finish this chapter, you’ll have a better understanding of the various menus, flash modes, and Personal/Custom Functions for your flash. You’ll learn how to interact with your flash, access its settings, and quickly and easily set it up to do the things you want, when you want them!

Power Requirements

The 600EX/600EX-RT, 580EX II, and the 430EX II each use four AA-size batteries. Having additional fresh batteries on hand for your Speedlites is a must. I speak from personal experience when I tell you that batteries almost always die on you at the worst possible time. You should strongly consider packing at least one extra set of batteries for each Speedlite you’ll be using.

Working with rechargeable batteries means that you’re doing the right thing for the environment and also for your bottom line. The initial investment is higher than what you would pay for standard AA batteries, but in the long run, it pays off because you’re not repeatedly purchasing expensive non-rechargeable batteries. I carry two sets of freshly charged batteries for each Speedlite I’m using. Five types of AA-size batteries are compatible with Canon Speedlites, and they fall into two categories: non-rechargeable and rechargeable.

Non-rechargeable

Primary, disposable, or one-use batteries have the dual advantages of having both a higher initial voltage and a longer life than secondary or rechargeable batteries of the same size. If you decide not to invest in a set or two of rechargeable batteries for your Speedlites, consider your choices within the non-rechargeable category. There are two types:

▶ Alkaline. This is your everyday, standard type of battery. Alkaline batteries are available just about everywhere, from your local supermarket to high-end camera stores. There are differences in quality, depending on the manufacturer. When buying these types of batteries, I suggest purchasing the batteries that are specifically designed for use with digital cameras and flash units. These batteries usually last longer and outperform less expensive brands.

▶ Lithium. Lithium batteries cost a little more than standard alkaline batteries, but they last a lot longer, and you get more flashes per set before you have to replace them. Professional photographers say they are worth every penny if they help you get the shot. You can find lithium batteries at office supply stores and camera shops.

Rechargeable

Rechargeable batteries require a greater initial investment, but you quickly get your money back by not having to repeatedly buy non-rechargeable batteries. There are two types of rechargeable batteries:

▶ NiCd. Nickel–cadmium batteries are the most common type of rechargeable batteries and are widely available. Although NiCd batteries are rechargeable, they do not last as long or fire as many flashes as the more expensive NiMH batteries. Another consideration is the so-called lazy battery effect, or battery memory effect. Certain NiCd batteries gradually lose their maximum energy capacity if they are repeatedly recharged after being only partially discharged. The battery appears to “remember” the lower capacity. The effect is caused by changes in the characteristics of the underused active materials of the cell.

▶ NiMH. Nickel–metal hydride batteries are more expensive, but they will last longer. AA NiMH batteries have two to three times the capacity of AA NiCd batteries, and therefore last longer on a single charge than NiCd batteries do, and the battery memory problem is not as significant. You can find NiMH batteries online, and in most office supply and photo stores. Sanyo’s eneloop batteries are some of my favorites due to their ability to hold a charge over long periods.

With every battery, there are environmental concerns. The NiCd, in particular, is highly controversial because the element cadmium is considered one of the most toxic elements in the world. If the battery leaks or explodes, it could cause serious damage and endanger the lives of anyone around. The NiMH, on the other hand, has no known environmental concerns. When NiMH batteries came into the mainstream, people began to realize they far exceeded the performance of the older NiCd. Furthermore, the NiMH was also much safer than cadmium-based batteries and did not fall victim to the memory effect that was such an issue with NiCd batteries. In short, the technology in NiMH batteries is superior to NiCd and a better choice for your flash photography.

When purchasing rechargeable batteries for your Speedlite, always select batteries with the same mAh rating (milliamp hours) and be sure not to mix battery types. The higher the mAh rating, the longer it will last on a charge. Make sure that all the batteries are fully charged, and don’t mix weaker batteries with freshly charged ones. A good practice is to number your batteries in sets that are always used together. Sanyo’s eneloop batteries are designed to hold their charge over long periods, but all battery types slowly lose their charge when left in storage. Be sure to fully charge your batteries before every shoot.

Cold temperatures also affect battery life and performance. In cold weather shooting, I always keep a spare set inside my coat, close to my body to keep them warm.

RadioShack markets a great battery charger that recharges batteries in two hours and includes a Refresh option. This single feature is highly desirable in a battery charger. In Refresh mode, batteries that have not been used for a long time can have their charge depleted to zero to recover the optimum capacity of the rechargeable batteries. The charger then automatically switches back to Charge mode to fully charge the batteries. It recharges eight AA batteries at the same time (enough for two Speedlites) and works with AAA, C, D, and 9-volt batteries as well.

Canon also offers the CP-E4 Compact Battery Pack, which uses eight AA batteries, significantly reducing recycle time and doubling the working life of your Speedlite. Another option is the Canon Transistor Pack E, which holds six C-size batteries for extra-long battery life. These attach to the 600EX/600EX-RT, 580EX II, 430EX II, MT-24EX, and MR-14EX Speedlites via the external power source socket.

Flash Modes

Canon Speedlites come equipped with several different flash modes for complete creative control. Availability of these modes differs between Speedlite models. For instance, Group mode (Gr) is a Radio Transmission Wireless Shooting () option available only on the 600EX-RT. And Multi-stroboscopic mode () cannot be set on the 430EX II (although it can be programmed that way by a master flash when it’s used as a slave). All currently marketed Speedlites offer backward-compatible flash modes for use with pre-2004 Canon EOS dSLRs and even EOS SLR film cameras. The new Speedlite transmitter ST-E3-RT works exclusively with the 600EX-RT Speedlite and is not backward compatible.

E-TTL II

E-TTL II, commonly referred to simply as E-TTL, is the newest and most innovative flash mode from Canon. It was introduced in 2004 for use with the Canon EOS 1D Mark II, and it continues to be used with Canon’s current lineup of EOS dSLR cameras. The camera gets most of the metering information from monitor preflashes that are emitted by the Speedlite. The camera also uses data from the lens, such as distance information and f-stop values.

The main improvement of E-TTL II over E-TTL is that it gives a more natural flash exposure by being able to handle difficult scenes where normally the old E-TTL system would be thrown off. Such improvements are possible because E-TTL II now incorporates lens-to-subject distance information in its calculation to assist in determining an appropriate guide number for flash output.

The flash metering system is also no longer linked to the AF system, where in the old E-TTL, metering bias was given to the selected AF point. Rather, E-TTL II compares the ambient and the preflash light levels of the scene to determine where the subject lies. This gives a photographer the flexibility to lock focus and recompose the scene without fooling the flash metering system. Hot spots that normally throw off the flash metering system are also ignored in the calculation. The results are more natural flash pictures and predictable results, even in many adverse lighting situations.

E-TTL

This is an older form of Canon’s flash metering system. It functions very much like E-TTL II. This metering system was used on Canon camera bodies from 1995 to 2004, and it stopped being used with the introduction of E-TTL II.

The primary difference between E-TTL and E-TTL II is that E-TTL is strongly focus-point biased. E-TTL evaluates the flash exposure primarily at the active focus point. E-TTL II does not have this high focus-point biasing, and the flash exposure is calculated using more of an evaluative metering pattern.

E-TTL and E-TTL II appear as just “E-TTL” on the Speedlite LCD because, although the Speedlite functions in both of these modes, a camera body only uses one type of metering system. Whether it is E-TTL or E-TTL II depends on the particular camera with which you are using the Speedlite.

Canon’s older film cameras used a flash metering system known as A-TTL. The 600EX/600EX-RT, 580EX II, and 430EX II flashes are not compatible with this older technology; they may work with these cameras, but they are not recommended because they do not share all communications with the camera. Canon series EZ Speedlites are the ones to use with EOS film cameras and are readily available for a good price on eBay.

Manual

E-TTL and E-TTL II are great for any number of picture-taking situations or those times when you want to get the best results possible when shooting on the fly. Then you just set the camera on Program (), Aperture Priority (), or Shutter Priority () mode and shoot away. The sophisticated camera/flash communications take care of many lighting problems and produce well-lit images. In the old days, photographers had to figure out a guide number and do a few calculations that took their eye away from the viewfinder. Now, it’s as easy as shooting a test shot, judging the results on your camera’s LCD monitor or tethered computer screen, and making corrections and adjustments before shooting again.

In certain circumstances, the E-TTL II system, while still awesome, may begin to feel a little limiting and rigid, considering you are locked into only a 3-stop range among all Speedlites and groups. Working with the 600EX/600EX-RT, 580EX II, and 430EX II Speedlites in full Manual mode may take some getting used to, but it offers you the greatest amount of creative control, especially in multiple-flash setups where you want individual control or each light. However, I have seen amazing results when utilizing eight Speedlites in E-TTL II mode for sports photography or two sets of four Speedlites each fired into a shoot-through umbrella for group shots at weddings. The beauty of E-TTL II is that it gives you freedom of movement and the flexibility to work quickly. With the 600EX/RT, you can now easily mix E-TTL and Manual mode Speedlites in multiple-flash setups.

Many photographers consider it confusing or intimidating to work with their flashes set to Manual output, but nothing could be further from the truth when it comes to off-camera flash setups. Don’t be afraid of Manual flash mode — it’s your friend! When you use a non-radio-enabled Speedlite or need additional range, many great products are available to facilitate wireless communication in both E-TTL and Manual modes, such as the RadioPopper PX and JrX systems. A wide range of lighting modifiers, such as those from Honl Photo, ExpoImaging, and Lastolite, are also available to help photographers mold, shape, and filter the light just the way they want it. All these tools add up to limitless creative possibilities.

CROSS REF For more information on the many different light modifiers, see Chapters 5 and 6.

Multi-stroboscopic flash

In this mode, the flash fires repeatedly, similar to a strobe light, during a single exposure. You may have seen multiple images of dancers, tennis players, or gymnasts that are achieved by using this flash mode. You decide the frequency and the number of times you want the flash to fire by specifying the Hz numbers, which correspond to the number of flashes per second. The slower the shutter speed, the more flashes you are able to capture. This mode works best in low-light situations or locations where the background is predominantly very dark or black.

600EX/600EX-RT

To set up Multi-stroboscopic mode on the 600EX/600EX-RT, follow these steps:

1. Press the Mode button on the Speedlite until Multi appears in the upper-left corner of the Speedlite’s LCD.

2. Press Function button 4 () to highlight the frequency setting. The frequency is set in hertz (Hz). Use the Select dial to change the frequency from 1 to 199 Hz. Press the center Select/Set button again to confirm your selection and set the frequency level.

NOTE Hertz is simply a measurement of cycles per second. 1 Hz is one cycle (flash burst) per second.

3. Press Function button 3 () to highlight the input field on the LCD for the number of flashes per frame. Use the Select dial to set how many times you want the flash to fire during the exposure. Press the center Select/Set button again. This confirms the number of flashes just selected.

4. Set your shutter speed. Your shutter speed depends on the firing frequency of the flash per second (measured in Hz) and the number of flashes (also called the repeat rate). Your shutter speed is equal to the number of flashes divided by the firing frequency. For example, say you set the frequency to 5 Hz, and you want the flash to fire 20 times in a single frame; in this case, you divide 20 by 5. This tells you that you need at least a 4-second exposure to accomplish this.

5. Check the Flash ready lamp/Test flash button () for ready status and shoot the photo.

After 10 multi-stroboscopic frames, allow the flash tube to rest and cool down for at least 15 minutes, or, if you continue to shoot, it may automatically shut down for 15 minutes.

580EX II

To set up Multi-stroboscopic mode on the 580EX II, follow these steps:

1. Set the camera to Manual exposure mode ().

2. Press the Mode button on the Speedlite until the Multi menu appears in the upper-left corner of the Speedlite’s LCD.

3. Press the 580EX II’s Select/Set button in the middle of the dial to highlight the frequency setting. The frequency is set in hertz (Hz). Use the dial to change the frequency from 1 to 199 Hz. Hertz is simply a measurement of cycles per second. 1 Hz is one cycle (flash burst) per second.

4. Press the center Select/Set button again to confirm your selection. This sets the frequency level and highlights the number of flashes per frame. Use the dial to set how many times you want the flash to fire during the exposure.

5. Press the center Select/Set button again. This enters the number of flashes selected in the previous step.

6. Set your shutter speed. Your shutter speed depends on the firing frequency of the flash per second (measured in Hz) and the number of flashes (also called the repeat rate). Your shutter speed is equal to the number of flashes divided by the firing frequency. For example, say you set the frequency to 5 Hz, and you want the flash to fire 20 times in a single frame; in this case, you divide 20 by 5. This tells you that you’ll need at least a 4-second exposure to accomplish this.

7. Check the pilot lamp for ready status and shoot the photo.

After 10 multi-stroboscopic frames, allow the flash tube to rest and cool down for at least 15 minutes, or, if you continue to shoot, it may automatically shut down for 15 minutes.

Zoom position

The zooming feature of the Speedlite focuses the light from the flash in order to match the angle of coverage of your lens. To facilitate the wider coverage that wide-angle lenses require, the flash tube is zoomed forward, diffusing the light through the Speedlite’s Fresnel lens and dispersing it to a wider area. When a longer lens is used, the flash tube is pulled back, and coverage is diminished, but intensity picks up and output is focused through the Fresnel to allow a farther distance to be lit.

When the 600EX/600EX-RT, 580EX II, or 430EX II is mounted on the camera, by default it automatically sets the zoom to match the lens. When I’m shooting quickly or in E-TTL mode with the flash on camera, 90 percent of the time I’m in flash Auto Zoom mode. However, during photo shoots, when I am setting up multiple wireless off-camera flashes, I am nearly always working the Manual Zoom settings to contain light spill for creative control.

600EX/600EX-RT

To set the zoom manually on the 600EX/600EX-RT, follow these steps:

1. Press Function button 1 () on the Speedlite. This highlights the zoom value input field at the top of the LCD.

2. Use the Select dial to choose a Zoom setting from 20mm–200mm.

3. Press the Select/Set button to confirm the setting.

580EX II

To set the zoom manually on the 580EX II, follow these steps:

1. Press the Zoom button on the back of the flash. The Zoom setting flashes when it is ready to be changed.

2. Scroll the dial left or right to change the Zoom setting.

3. When finished, press the Zoom button again to save the setting. You can also just tap the shutter button to resume shooting.

430EX II

To set the zoom manually on the 430EX II, follow these steps:

1. Press the Zoom button on the back of the flash. The Zoom setting flashes when it is ready to be changed.

2. Use the + or – button to change the Zoom setting.

3. When finished, press the Zoom button again to save the setting. You can also just tap the shutter button to resume shooting.

Auto Zoom Adjustment for APS-C Sensors

Certain Canon camera bodies, such as the 5D, 5D Mark II, and 1Ds Mark III, have a full-frame sensor. This means the digital sensor is exactly the same size as a frame of 35mm film. Canon currently makes three dSLR sensor sizes and utilizes them in many different dSLR camera models.

Canon’s professional and consumer dSLRs are equipped with APS-H and APS-C sensors, respectively, which are a bit smaller than a 35mm frame of film by certain percentages. With this smaller sensor, the actual coverage area of the lens is larger than the sensor because it doesn’t cover the same area as it would on a full-frame sensor or a piece of 35mm film. This brings up the lens conversion factor.

Simply stated, you take the actual focal length of the lens and multiply this number by the sensor’s conversion factor to find the equivalent focal length of the lens in terms of 35mm film. For example, on a full-frame 5D Mark III camera, a 28mm lens is considered wide angle and yields the standard image that a 28mm lens produces. However, when you multiply it by the lens conversion factor for your particular camera’s sensor, you get a different angle of view. For APS-C cameras, the conversion factor is 1.6x and for APS-H cameras, it is 1.3x. Doing the math, it would yield the same coverage as a 44.8mm lens when using the same 28mm lens on a camera with an APS-C size sensor, and the equivalent of a 36.4mm lens with an APS-H sensor.

Canon Speedlites automatically recognize the EOS digital camera’s sensor size, adjust the flash head zoom automatically, and set the flash coverage for the converted lens focal lengths from 24mm to 105mm. When the Speedlite is connected, an icon appears in the upper-right corner of the Speedlite’s LCD monitor.

Adjusting Flash Exposure Compensation

E-TTL and E-TTL II are great for producing well-lit images in difficult lighting situations; I use E-TTL II all the time. However, when you can anticipate how the camera will see certain areas of your image or don’t care for the results of a test exposure, it can be very helpful to have creative control over how much light the flash is contributing to the exposure. Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) involves adjusting the flash output higher or lower than what the camera chose. You reduce the flash’s power by specifying a minus FEC setting, making the flash weaker, contributing less light to the exposure, and possibly creating a more natural balance between the ambient light in the scene and the light from the flash. Specify more FEC with a positive number, and the flash will dominate the ambient light. FEC can be adjusted in 1/3-stop increments over a 6-stop range (3 under, 3 over normal).

You can adjust the output of your Speedlite in a number of ways. When the Speedlite is mounted on your camera, you can adjust the output on the camera body itself. Most Canon dSLRs have a button for setting Flash Exposure Compensation that works with Speedlites as well as the on-board pop-up flash. Some of the newer Canon cameras, such as the 5D Mark III, also have an External Speedlite Control menu where you can adjust the flash settings by using the camera’s buttons and dials.

Finally, you can also adjust the FEC on the Speedlite itself.

600EX/600EX-RT

To set Exposure Compensation on the 600EX/600EX-RT, follow these steps:

1. Press Function button 2 (+/–) to highlight the FEC value scale, number field, and icons.

2. Use the Select dial to choose a FEC value from +/–3 stops in 1/3-stop increments.

3. Press the Select/Set button to confirm the settings.

580EX II

To set Exposure Compensation on the 580EX II in E-TTL mode, follow these steps:

1. Press the Select/Set button for about one-half second. The Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) icon begins to blink.

2. Scroll the Select dial left or right to make the adjustments.

3. After your adjustments are made, press the Select/Set button again to save the setting.

430EX II

Follow these steps to set the flash output on the 430EX II in E-TTL mode:

1. Press the Select/Set button for about one-half second. The Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) icon begins to blink.

2. Press the + or – button to adjust the settings accordingly.

3. Press the Select/Set button to save the setting.

When Exposure Compensation is selected, the settings appear on the Speedlite’s LCD. When the FEC is returned to normal, the FEC icon does not appear.

To return the FEC to normal, follow the same procedure as in the previous set of steps, and set the Speedlite accordingly.

Red-eye Reduction

Everybody’s seen red-eye in a picture at one time or another. It’s that red glow in the eyes of people and pets that leaves you wondering if they’re really possessed by evil spirits. Well, of course they’re not; this is just an annoying anomaly caused by the reflection of the light from the flash off the eye’s retina. Most cameras that have flash compatibility have a Red-eye Reduction function to correct this, which consists of a preflash or an LED that produces a light bright enough to constrict the pupils prior to the exposure, therefore reducing the amount of light reflecting off the retina.

Red-eye Reduction cannot be set on the 580EX II or 430EX II. Camera bodies control this function. Consult the owner’s manual for your camera for instructions on how to set it up.

AF-Assist Beam

When you’re photographing in a dark environment, it can be very hard for your camera’s autofocus sensor to find something to lock on to. When you’re using a 600EX/600EX-RT, 580EX II, or 430EX II in a low-light situation, the flash emits an LED pattern to give your camera sensor a red grid to focus on. For this feature to operate correctly, you must be using an AF lens and the camera’s focus mode must be set to Single-shot () or AI Focus ().

600EX/600EX-RT

To turn the AF-assist illuminator on and off on the 600EX/600EX-RT, follow these steps:

1. Press Function button 1 () for 2 seconds to enter the Custom Functions menu.

2. Use the Select dial to choose C.Fn 08. Press the Select/Set button in the middle of the Select dial to enter the settings area for the AF-assist Custom Function ().

3. Scroll the Select dial left or right to change the setting to either 0 or 1. The 0 indicates that the AF-assist beam is enabled. Changing the setting from 0 to 1 disables the AF-assist beam by activating the disabled function and causing it not to illuminate. Press Function button 4 () to go back in the menus if necessary.

4. Press the Select/Set button to save the settings.

5. Press the Function button 4 () to return to the main menu.

On newer Canon EOS cameras like the 5D Mark III, 7D, and others, all the latest Speedlites controls and Custom Functions can be set from the camera’s External Speedlite control menu.

580EX II

To turn the AF-assist illuminator on and off on the 580EX II, follow these steps:

1. Press the C.Fn button for two seconds to enter the Custom Functions menu.

2. Scroll the dial left or right to select the C.Fn number. The C.Fn number for AF-assist beam firing is F08. After you select C.Fn F08, press the Set button in the middle of the dial; the setting digit blinks.

3. Scroll the dial left or right to change the setting to either 0 or 1. The 0 indicates that the AF-assist beam is enabled. Changing the setting from 0 to 1 will disable the AF-assist beam by activating the disabled function and causing it not to illuminate.

4. Press the Set button to save the setting.

5. Press the Mode button to return to the main menu.

On newer Canon EOS cameras like the 5D Mark II, 7D, and others, all the latest Speedlites controls and Custom Functions can be set from the camera’s External Speedlite control menu.

430EX II

To turn the AF-assist illuminator on and off on the 430EX II, follow these steps:

1. Press the C.Fn button for 2 seconds to enter the Custom Functions menu.

2. Press the + and – buttons to select the C.Fn number. The C.Fn number for AF-assist beam OFF is F08. After you select C.Fn F08, press the Select/Set button; the setting digit blinks.

3. Press the + or – button to change the setting to either 0 or 1. The 0 indicates that the AF-assist beam is enabled. Changing the setting from 0 to 1 will disable the AF-assist beam activating the disabled function and causing it not to illuminate.

4. Press the Select/Set button to save the setting.

5. Press the Mode button to return to the main menu.

LCD Panel Illumination

The LCD panels of both the 580EX II and 430EX II have an LCD backlight built in to help viewing in low-light situations. To turn on this backlight, simply press the Custom Functions (C.Fn) button. This LCD backlight turns off when you press the button a second time, or it will automatically turn off after approximately 10 seconds. This is an invaluable feature when you’re trying to change a setting quickly shooting in dark environments. I also carry a small Maglite flashlight to help illuminate the buttons on the back of the Speedlite. This is a very useful tool to have on hand for all sorts of low-light situations.

The 600EX/600EX-RT and Speedlite transmitter ST-E3-RT have two LCD background colors to choose from. These options are found in the Personal functions (P.Fn) menu and can be set by pressing Function button 1 () for 2 seconds to enter the Custom Functions menu and then pressing it again to switch to the Personal Functions (P.Fn) menu. P.Fn 02, 03, and 04 control this feature on the 600EX/600EX-RT and P.Fn 03 and 04 control it on the Speedlite transmitter ST-E3-RT.

Custom Functions

Similar to your Canon EOS camera, the 600EX/600EX-RT, 580EX II, and 430EX II Speedlites all come with user-adjustable Custom Functions (C.Fn) to offer you greater flexibility and control over their performance. As mentioned previously, the 600EX/600EX-RT also now includes a set of Personal Functions (P.Fn) to further customize the Speedlite. The 600EX has 18 Custom Functions and five Personal Functions (P.Fn 06-07 are unavailable on this model), the 600EX-RT has 18 Custom Functions and seven Personal Functions. The 580EX II has 14 Custom Functions, and the 430EX II has nine. They are accessed by using the same instructions as for the AF-assist beam. The Speedlite transmitter ST-E3-RT has eight Custom Functions and three Personal Functions.

Setting Custom Functions on the flash

Setting the Custom Functions (C.Fn) on Speedlite models prior to the 600EX/600EX-RT is as easy as pushing the Backlight/C.Fn button, turning a dial, and pushing some buttons to make adjustments. The hard part is remembering what all the C.Fn numbers correspond to, and what each of the settings means in terms of performance. Most users set up their Custom Functions when they first get their flashes and leave them set that way. Occasionally, a situation will arise where you need to operate your Speedlite differently than you normally do; these cases will often involve changing one of your Speedlite’s preset Custom Functions.

Accessing Custom and Personal Functions on the 600EX/600EX-RT Speedlites and Speedlite transmitter ST-E3-RT is equally easy and can be done by pressing and holding Function button 1 () for 2 seconds.

Prior to the 600EX and 600EX-RT Speedlites, Custom Function (C.Fn) menus didn’t provide much information. Menus displayed just the function number and setting number, making it difficult to know what each setting did without referring to the manual or the camera’s External Speedlite control menus. This has changed dramatically with the introduction on 600EX/600EX-RT Speedlites and new Speedlite transmitter ST-E3-RT. All have a Custom/Personal Function menu with easy-to-understand descriptions and icons. These menus are accessible from the built-in LCD panels on these units and External Speedlite control menus available on recent EOS digital camera models. I prefer to use the camera’s External Speedlite control menu that includes the function’s description whenever possible, especially when working with 580EX II and 430EX II Speedlites. Also feel free to download the Custom Function and Settings tables for use with smartphones and tablets at www.wiley.com/go/canon slsdfg3e. I created these for handy, backlit, in-the-field reference. Tables 2.1 through 2.4 list the C.Fn or P.Fn number of the respective Speedlites, what the settings are, and why you’d want to use them.

NOTE Custom and Personal Functions can be cleared using the menu system on compatible digital cameras and by pressing Function button 2 (CLEAR) and then Function button 1 (OK) on the 600EX/600EX-RT and Speedlite transmitter ST-E3-RT. Custom Functions that have been set are cleared.

Note that Custom Functions 03, 04, 05, 06, 12, and 13 from the 580EX II are missing from the list for the 430EX II. They are not available on the 430EX II. The MT-24EX and MR-14EX Speedlites also include slightly limited Custom Function menus.

Setting Custom Functions via the camera

Several Canon camera models now allow you to control the Speedlites’ exposure modes, settings, and Custom Functions right from the camera’s LCD monitor. Using this larger menu screen is a much more intuitive and easier way to interact with your Speedlites’ available settings. It’s also a huge time-saver when you can make all the settings for both pieces of equipment in one place, not having to use another gadget’s menu, buttons, and dials. It’s hard enough of just trying to get the shot! So any time-savers are appreciated.

Currently, the 1Ds Mark III, 1D Mark III, 1D Mark IV, 5D Mark II, 7D, 40D, 50D, 60D, the latest Rebels, and the new 1D X and 5D Mark III support this feature and offer External Speedlite control. Canon plans to offer this feature with all future dSLR cameras.

Auto Off mode

The 600EX/600EX-RT, 580EX II, and 430EX II have an Auto Off or standby mode. The Auto Off function puts the flash to sleep when not in use, which helps conserve battery power. When the Speedlite goes into standby mode, tap the shutter button or switch the Speedlite off and then on. When using the Speedlite transmitter ST-E3-RT with a 600EX-RT or the ST-E2 Speedlite transmitter with the 600EX, 580EX II, and 430EX II, simply push the Test fire button on your Speedlite to wake up the slaves.

Speedlites are set by default for an automatic standby time. This is fine when you’re shooting with a Speedlite connected to the camera. However, when you’re using Speedlites remotely, this setting can quickly become an annoyance, especially when you’re working in combination with third-party remotes, such as RadioPoppers or PocketWizards. Because the Auto Off default setting for the flash is to switch to a power-saving sleep state when not in use, and the Speedlites not being physically connected to the camera, the flashes will sleep at the most in inopportune times, like right in the middle of a shoot when your Speedlite is buried inside a softbox. This has freaked me out more than once until I learned how to disable this feature. I keep the Auto Off standby function turned off all the time. To do this on your Speedlites (and I recommend you do), enter the Custom Function menu and disable C.Fn 01 () on the 600EX/600EX-RT, 580EX II, and 430EX II. Change Custom Function settings using the same steps used to change the settings for the AF-assist beam, described earlier in this chapter.

As you get more comfortable with small-flash lighting, you’ll be getting those flashes off your camera and using the adjustments described in this chapter to create the kind of images you’ve always wanted!