1. Cut a strip of leather measuring 1" × 5" (2.5 × 12.5 cm) (fig. 1).

Fig. 1: Cut a leather strip.

2. Fold the strip in half with the keyring tucked into the crease (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Fold the leather through the keyring.

3. Thread a needle with floss and tie a knot. Start your first stitch from the inside edge of the leather so the knot is hidden (fig. 3).

Fig. 3: Stitch from the inside.

4. Create three neat stitches through both layers of leather close to the keyring (fig. 4). Repeat on the opposite side.

Fig. 4: Make three edge stitches on each side.

5. Use your needle to twist the tail of thread around the existing section between the layers of leather (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Secure the thread between the layers.

6. Make a knot and trim the floss (fig. 6).

Fig. 6: Tie a knot.

7. Dab a little white glue on the knot to secure it (fig. 7).

Fig. 7: Glue the knot.

8. Use sharp scissors to cut narrow fringe into the leather (fig. 8). Leave about 1/4" (6 mm) between the fringe and stitching.

Fig. 8: Cut the fringe.

1. Lay your tee flat and carefully cut off the collar and sleeves (fig. 1). Try to cut a little bit away from the seams to be sure you remove them completely and leave the cut edge as smooth as you can, without jagged bits. If you start with a tank top, you can skip the sleeve and neckline cutting. Just start at step 2 and continue!

Fig. 1: Cut off the collar and sleeves.

2. Cut off the bottom hem of the tee (fig. 2). If your shirt has a high-low hemline (as shown), just cut a straight line across at the shortest point.

Fig. 2: Trim off the bottom hem.

3. Place a piece of masking tape across the shirt about 6" (15 cm) away from the bottom edge (fig. 3).

Fig. 3: Mark 6" (15 cm) with masking tape.

4. Make a cutting guide on the masking tape by marking every 1/2" (1 cm) with a pen (fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Mark the tape every 1/2" (1 cm).

5. Make a cut at every 1/2" (1 cm) mark through both layers of the tee, up to the masking tape (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Cut the fringe.

6. Working left to right, separate each front fringe from its back fringe partner and tie in a double knot right up to the tape (fig. 6). Then remove the tape.

Fig. 6: Double knot the fringe.

7. Tighten the knots to secure the bag bottom, and fluff the fringe as necessary (fig. 7).

Fig. 7: Make adjustments.

1. Remove the glass from the frame and paint the frame using bright colors and layered vertical brush strokes (fig. 1). Keep adding strokes until the entire frame is covered. Then add a few dot clusters for extra movement.

Fig. 1: Paint the frame.

2. Trace the frame’s cardboard insert or glass onto lightly patterned scrapbook paper or wrapping paper (fig. 2). This will give some style to the background of your dry erase board, without making your writing too tough to read.

Fig. 2: Trace the frame insert.

3. Use scissors to cut the paper background to size (fig. 3).

Fig. 3: Cut the paper.

4. Place the trimmed background paper into the frame under the glass (fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Insert the background paper.

5. Use colorful duct tape to wrap the dry erase marker so it coordinates with the painted frame (fig. 5). This step is optional, but it really makes the project look complete!

Fig. 5: Duct tape the marker.

6. Peel and stick the soft side of the hook-and-loop tape to the side of the marker (fig. 6). The hard hook side won’t be as comfy while you are writing.

Fig. 6: Stick the hook-and-loop tape to the marker.

7. Peel and stick the hard side of the hook and loop tape to the side of the frame (fig. 7).

Fig. 7: Stick the hook-and-loop tape to the frame.

2. Use a warm iron to press the ends of your ribbon under about 1/4" (6 mm) (fig. 2). This will keep the edges from fraying on your finished scruncher.

Fig. 2: Press the ribbon ends under.

3. Cut one piece of fusible bonding tape for each scruncher (fig. 3). It should be exactly to length without protruding. (The iron will stick to it if the two touch.)

Fig. 3: Cut the fusible bonding tape to length.

4. Sandwich the fusible bonding tape between lengths of ribbon (fig. 4). Place your first ribbon design on the bottom and the second ribbon design on top. Press to fuse. Repeat for the second set of ribbons.

Fig. 4: Fuse the ribbons.

5. Snip hook-and-loop tape to fit across the end of the ribbon (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Cut the hook-and-loop tape.

6. Stitch the hook-and-loop tape to the ends of the scrunchers so they make a loop when connected (fig. 6). For example, the soft loop side will go on the first ribbon design, and the hard hook side will go on the second ribbon design on the opposite end.

Fig. 6: Stitch the hook-and-loop tape.

2. Fold the bunch of string in half and thread it through the end of the paperclip (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Fold and insert the string.

3. Bring the tails of the string over the paperclip and through the loop (fig. 3). Pull to tighten. It helps to secure the tightened knot with a dab of glue.

Fig. 3: Pull the tails through the loop.

4. Trim the six strings to different lengths so your pompoms will be staggered (fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Trim the strings.

5. Push back the pompom fluff to find the center/knot and dab on a bit of white glue (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Put a dot of glue in the pompom.

6. Place the end of one of the trimmed strings into the dot of glue. Hold it in place a few seconds and then fluff the pompom back up around the string (fig. 6).

Fig. 6: Attach the string.

7. Repeat step 6 for all the strings until you have a full pompom tassel on the paperclip (fig. 7).

Fig. 7: Glue all the pompoms on.

1. Cut rectangles of corrugated cardboard into four equal-size rectangles (fig. 1).

Fig. 1: Cut the cardboard.

2. Stack the cardboard rectangles and use masking tape to wrap around each of the four sides to hold it together (fig 2).

Fig. 2: Tape the cardboard together.

3. Place the cardboard onto the fabric and wrap it around the edges to the back and tape down (fig. 3). Tuck the corners as though you were wrapping a gift. Press firmly on the masking tape. Warming the adhesive with your hand and applying pressure will make it stick with no problem.

Fig. 3: Wrap the fabric.

4. Insert a pushpin into the board near the top left and another at top right. Cut a length of string a little wider than the board. Tie a knot around the push pin at top left and then another at top right so that you have a little clothesline across the top of the board (fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Add a string at the top of the board.

5. Follow the same steps to make a little clothesline at the bottom of the board (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Add a string at the bottom of the board.

6. Clip some mini clothespins to the strings and add some cute pushpins to the board (fig. 6). Add a few favorite photos, ribbons, and special mementos to get your display started.

Fig. 6: Add mini clothespins and pushpins.

1. Use masking tape to secure the pick to a piece of scrap wood (fig. 1). This will help keep the pick from shifting during step 2.

Fig. 1: Tape the pick to scrap wood.

2. Use a hammer and slim nail to gently tap a hole into your pick (fig. 2). Just tap the point in, not the thickest part of the nail, or it may crack.

Fig. 2: Make a hole.

3. Use jewelry pliers to open a large jump ring and thread the pick onto it (fig. 3). Close the ring. You have a charm!

Fig. 3: Attach the jump ring.

4. Snip a length of leather cord sized for your neck. Crimp jewelry end caps with small eyes onto both ends of the leather cord (fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Attach end caps to the cord.

5. Use jewelry pliers to attach more jump rings as connectors between the end caps and the necklace closure (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Attach jump rings.

6. Attach a lobster clasp or other necklace closure to complete the necklace (fig. 6).

Fig. 6: Attach the closure.