2. Use the edge of a pair of scissors or a razor cutting tool (with adult help) to cut the front and back book endpapers along the spine and release the book pages from the hard cover and spine (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Separate the cover from the book pages.

3. Using the length and width measurements from step 1, cut two strips of cardboard (fig. 3). Add 1/2" (1 cm) to the width measurement before cutting. Keep the length the same. Once the strips are cut, measure and mark a pencil line 1/2" (1 cm) away from the long edge.

Fig. 3: Measure and cut the cardboard strips.

4. Press in with a sharp pencil or pen along the pencil line to score the cardboard strips. Crease the cardboard along the line to create a flat flange for gluing the strips to the book cover (fig. 4). Do this for both strips.

Fig. 4: Fold the cardboard strip.

5. Hold the cardboard strip along the book edge. Mark the corner with pencil line (fig. 5). You will repeat this step for the top corner and second strip of cardboard as well.

Fig. 5: Mark the corners.

6. Cut triangles out of the flange (the 1/2" [1 cm] segment of the strip) at each corner mark (fig. 6). This allows them to be folded to create the walls of the book box.

Fig. 6: Snip triangles from the flange to make corners.

7. Use hot glue or another fast-hold adhesive to attach the cardboard walls to the front cover of the book, very close to the edge. Repeat to attach the cardboard walls to the back cover of the book. Attach this strip just a slight 1/16" (1.6 mm) or so further from the book edge than you did on the front cover (fig. 7).

Fig. 7: Hot glue the cardboard walls to the book front and back.

8. Glue a piece of felt to the inside of your book box to conceal all cardboard edges and complete your hiding spot (fig. 8).

Fig. 8: Add the felt lining.

1. Cut shapes from fabric scraps and position them on the shoes as you would do with a paper collage (fig. 1).

Fig. 1: Arrange the fabric scraps.

2. Use fabric glue sparingly to tack the scraps into place before you begin stitching (fig. 2). Allow to dry. Note: Don’t place any designs deep into the toe box of the shoe. It will be difficult to maneuver your needle in that small space.

Fig. 2: Glue down the scraps.

3. Create a stitch pattern that follows or accentuates the shape of one of your scrap patches (fig. 3). In this case, single stitches radiate outward all around the circle scrap. (Use a thimble if you have a hard time pushing the needle through the canvas.)

Fig. 3: Stitch the first colors and main design.

4. Knot the floss on the inside of the shoe each time you finish with a color (fig. 4). Trim the tails close to the knot.

Fig. 4: Knot the floss tails.

5. Use a second color of floss to create a new stitch pattern across the scraps (fig. 5). In this case, rows of short stitches are overlapped across the fabric scraps, existing stitches, and shoe canvas.

Fig. 5: Add a new stitch color and design.

6. Use a final stitch color and design (fig. 6). In this case, white floss is used to scatter little cross designs across the fabric scraps, existing stitches, and shoe canvas. The small crisscross designs are a popular choice that add lots of personality.

Fig. 6: Stitch the final color and design.

1. Soak the glass vessels in a sink of warm, soapy water to help remove residue and loosen labels (fig. 1). Use a nonabrasive scrubbing sponge to tackle stubborn bits of label adhesive.

Fig. 1: Wash the glassware and remove any labels.

2. Cut tissue paper into strips or any shape you prefer (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Cut the tissue paper into strips.

3. Begin brushing decoupage medium onto the jar, starting at the bottom (fig. 3). This way, it will be dry enough to place on a table by the time you finish gluing. Work in small areas at a time to prevent the medium from drying before you get to it.

Fig. 3: Brush the decoupage medium onto the jar.

4. Add the tissue paper strips to the jar (fig. 4). Overlap them to create interesting texture and color blending that make the finished project so beautiful.

Fig. 4: Layer on the tissue strips.

5. Alternate adding new strips and coating the strips already applied as you go (fig. 5). The idea is to glue the strips down and coat them with the medium thoroughly by the time the jar is complete.

Fig. 5: Coat the tissue with more decoupage medium.

6. The neck of your jar will likely have grooves that held the lid on. Use the side of the brush to gently coax the tissue into these areas with a generous amount of medium and a light hand so the tissue doesn’t tear (fig. 6).

Fig. 6: Work the tissue into any crevices.

2. Cut shapes from the tape that will be masked out during the painting process and retain the color of your shirt (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Cut shapes from the painter’s tape.

3. Complete your cutout designs and place them inside the taped off border (fig. 3). Be sure that all the edges are pressed down well to avoid paint seeping under the tape.

Fig. 3: Complete your tape art and press down the tape edges firmly.

4. Load a foam stamp with soft fabric paint and press the color onto the tee inside the border (fig. 4). Use a bouncing motion and do not rub the brush side to side, which may force paint under tape edges.

Fig. 4: Stamp paint inside the border.

5. Once the paint is tacky/mostly dry, carefully lift off the masking tape to reveal your graphic (fig. 5)!

Fig. 5: Remove the tape to reveal your design.

1. Cut a simple shape from an adhesive foam sheet and remove the backing (fig. 1).

Fig. 1: Cut the foam sheet shape and peel off the backing.

2. Triple the thickness of the stamp shape by peeling and sticking it to more foam sheeting and trimming it close to the first shape (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Peel, stick, and trim the foam shape to get a triple-thick foam shape.

3. Peel and stick the triple-thick foam shape to corrugated cardboard. Trim about 1/4" (6 mm) away from the foam edges so there is a bit of room to grip (fig. 3).

Fig. 3: Stick the foam shape to cardboard and trim.

4. Apply an even layer of soft fabric paint to the foam stamp using a foam brush (fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Apply paint to the stamp with a foam brush.

5. Press the stamp firmly to the shirt and carefully peel it away to reveal your design (fig. 5). Repeat!

Fig. 5: Stamp your shirt.

2. Use a damp rag to go over the surface of the leather a few times to moisten and soften the surface to accept deeper embossing (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Wet the leather with water.

3. Use an empty ballpoint pen to trace over the sketched lines and create an indentation (fig. 3). Press lightly at first and go over the marks a few times. Press a bit harder as you go to make the designs deeper and deeper.

Fig. 3: Create the embossed designs.

4. Use a brown marker to carefully fill the indented designs (fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Fill the designs with marker.

5. If you’d like, use leather shoe polish to stain the cuff, or use leather conditioner to shine up and protect your cuff (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Stain and seal the cuff.

2. Cut a length of yarn about 8" (20 cm) and lay it across the top of the cardboard form. Starting at the bottom, wrap the rest of the yarn around and around the bit of yarn and the cardboard from bottom to top about 15 times (fig. 2). You can wrap more times for a fluffier tassel, if you like.

Fig. 2: Wrap the yarn bottom to top.

3. Snip the yarn at the bottom of the cardboard so that both cut ends are at the bottom (fig. 3).

Fig. 3: Snip the yarn.

4. Tie a tight knot in the bit of string at the top of the cardboard and leave the tails (fig. 4). These will be used for attaching your tassel wherever you like.

Fig. 4: Tie off the hanger.

5. Slip a length of yarn through the notch in the cardboard and tie. Wrap it around the neck of the tassel several times and tie off again (fig. 5). This secures the tassel fringe like cinching a dress at the waist.

Fig. 5: Tie off the tassel fringe.

6. Slide the yarn off the cardboard and cut the loop at the bottom open with scissors to create the fringe. Snip off any stray lengths to make it even (fig. 6).

Fig. 6: Trim the fringe.

1. Cut a strip of woven fabric the width and length of the decorative portion of your current strap to act as a base for the patchwork (fig. 1). Cut the same size strip from your knit fabric.

Fig. 1: Cut strips of knit fabric and woven cotton fabric.

2. Cut various pieces of patchwork fabrics. Lay them out along the base fabric strip to cover it. The edges of patches should overlap about 1/4" (6 mm). The edges that align with the long edge of the base strip can be cut with straight scissors. Cut the other sides of the patches with pinking shears if possible to keep fraying in check (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Cut the patchwork squares.

3. Use two strips of fusible bonding tape and a warm iron to attach the patchwork squares to the base fabric one by one (fig. 3).

Fig. 3: Fuse the patches to the base fabric.

4. Use various colors of embroidery floss to make a running stitch at each patch edge across the strap (fig. 4). Be careful to stitch through both layers of overlapping patches at each location. Leave loose ends free at either side.

Fig. 4: Stitch the edges.

5. Pin the knit fabric strip to the patchwork strip, right sides together (fig. 5). Fold and press under the short ends about 1/4" (6 mm) each so the raw edges will roll under on the finished strap cover.

Fig. 5: Pin the front and back strips together.

6. Use a small running stitch or back stitch to sew the front and back side of the strap cover together (fig. 6). Stitch close to the edge, being sure to catch all the fabric layers. You can use a sewing machine for this step if you have one. Turn the strap cover right-side out. Fold the tube outward on itself—as though you were turning a sock right side out—and keep working with your fingers until the whole strap is turned. Slide the strap cover onto your strap! The stretch of the knit fabric makes it work!

Fig. 6: Stitch the front and back together. Turn the cover right-side out.

2. Drip a few colors of food coloring randomly on the surface of the shaving foam (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Add food coloring.

3. Use a chopstick to swirl the food coloring around in the foam to create an interesting pattern (fig. 3). You can add extra drops of food coloring if you find there are areas you missed. But don’t stir so much that you blend everything together into one color!

Fig. 3: Swirl the color.

4. Carefully lay the cardstock sheet onto the surface of the foam and press lightly to ensure good contact across the sheet (fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Lay down the cardstock.

5. Peel away the cardstock gently, grasping it at the corner (fig. 5). There will be lots of foam stuck to your sheet.

Fig. 5: Remove the cardstock.

6. Use a strip of stiff cardboard or another straight-edge tool to scrape the foam off of the cardstock into a sink or spare pan (fig. 6). This will reveal your marbled design! Lay the sheet face up to dry.

Fig. 6: Scrape the cardstock.

7. Once dry, trim the marbled sheets as necessary and glue to blank notecards with a glue stick (fig. 7).

Fig. 7: Glue the marbled sheets to blank notecards.