Montmartre and Pigalle
Painters and poets, from Picasso to Apollinaire, put the “art” in Montmartre, and it will forever be associated with their Bohemian lifestyles of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. There are plenty of artists around today too, painting quick-fire portraits of tourists in the place du Tertre. The area’s name comes from “Mount of Martyrs”, commemorating the first bishop of Paris, St Denis, who was decapitated here by the Romans in AD 250. Parisians, however, call it the “Butte” (knoll) as it is the highest point in the city. Throngs of tourists climb the hill for the stupendous view from Sacré-Coeur, crowding the main square, but you can still discover Montmartre’s charms along the winding back streets, small squares and terraces. Below the hill, Pigalle, once home to dance halls and cabarets, has largely been taken over by sleazy sex shows along the boulevard de Clichy.
The Montmartre VineyardsIt’s hard to imagine it today, but Montmartre was once a French wine region said to match the quality of Bordeaux and Burgundy. There were 20,000 ha (50,000 acres) of Parisian vineyards in the mid-18th century, but today just 1,000 bottles of wine are made annually from the remaining 2,000 vines in Montmartre, and sold for charity. |
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Sights
Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí
The Dalí works here may not be the artist’s most famous or best, but this museum is still a must for any fan of the Spanish Surrealist (see Salvador Dalí). More than 300 of his drawings and sculptures are on display amid high-tech light and sound effects, including Dalí’s voice, which create a “surreal” atmosphere. There are also bronzes of his memorable “fluid” clocks (see Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí).
11 rue Poulbot, 75018
Open 10am–6pm daily
Admission charge
Salvador Dalí
Musée de Montmartre
The museum is set in Montmartre’s finest townhouse, known as Le Manoir de Rose de Rosimond after the 17th-century actor who once owned it. From 1875 it provided living quarters and studios for many artists. Using drawings, photographs and memorabilia, the museum presents the history of the Montmartre area, from its 12th-century convent days to the present, with an emphasis on the Bohemian lifestyle of the belle époque. There is even a re-created 19th-century bistro.
12 rue Cortot, 75018
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec
Admission charge
Place du Tertre
At 130 m (430 ft), Montmartre’s old village square, whose name means “hillock”, is the highest point in the city. Any picturesque charm it might once have had is now sadly hidden under the tourist-trap veneer of over-priced restaurants and portrait artists hawking their services, although the fairy lights at night are still atmospheric. No. 21 houses the Old Montmartre information office, with details about the area. Nearby is the church of St-Pierre de Montmartre, all that remains of the Benedictine abbey which stood here from 1133 until the Revolution.
Cimetière de Montmartre
The main graveyard for the district lies beneath a busy road in an old gypsum quarry, though it’s more restful than first appears when you actually get below street level. The illustrious tombs, many with ornately sculpted monuments, packed tightly into this intimate space reflect the artistic bent of the former residents, who include composers Hector Berlioz and Jacques Offenbach, writers Stendhal and Alexandre Dumas, Russian dancer Nijinsky and the film director François Truffaut.
20 ave Rachel, 75018
Musée de l’Erotisme
With more than 2,000 items from around the world, this museum presents all forms of erotic art from painting, sculpture, photos and drawings to objects whose sole purpose seems to be titillation. It’s all tastefully presented, however, reflecting the sincere interest of the three collectors who founded the museum in 1997 to explore the cultural aspects of eroticism. The displays range from spiritual objects of primitive cultures to whimsical artworks.
72 blvd de Clichy, 75018
Open 10am–2am daily
Admission charge
Moulin Rouge
The Moulin Rouge (“red windmill”) is the most famous of the belle époque dance halls which scandalized respectable citizens and attracted Montmartre’s artists and Bohemians. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec immortalized the era with his sketches and posters of dancers such as Jane Avril, some of which now grace the Musée d’Orsay. Cabaret is still performed here (see Moulin Rouge).
82 blvd de Clichy, 75018
Shows daily at 9pm & 11pm (dinner at 7pm)
Au Lapin Agile
This belle époque restaurant and cabaret was a popular hangout for Picasso, Renoir, and poets Apollinaire and Paul Verlaine. It took its name from a humorous painting by André Gill of a rabbit (lapin) leaping over a cooking pot, called the “Lapin à Gill”. In time it became known by its current name (“nimble rabbit”).
22 rue des Saules, 75018
Open 9pm–2am Tue–Sun
Au Lapin Agile
Place des Abbesses
This pretty square lies at the base of the Butte, between Pigalle and the place du Tertre. Reach it via the metro station of the same name to appreciate one of the few original Art Nouveau stations left in the city. Designed by the architect Hector Guimard, it features ornate green wrought-iron arches, amber lanterns and a ship shield, the symbol of Paris, on the roof. Along with Porte Dauphine, it is the only station to retain its original glass roof. A mural painted by local artists winds around the spiral staircase at the entrance. But don’t walk to the platform, take the elevator – it’s the deepest station in Paris, with 285 steps.
Moulin de la Galette
Montmartre once had more than 30 windmills, used for pressing grapes and grinding wheat; this is one of only two still standing. During the siege of Paris in 1814 its owner, Pierre-Charles Debray, was crucified on its sails by Russian soldiers. It became a dance hall in the 19th century and inspired paintings by Renoir and Van Gogh. It is now a restaurant, but it can be admired from outside, and rue Lepic is worth a visit for its shops and restaurants.
79 rue Lepic, 75018
Moulin de la Galette
A Day in Montmartre
Morning
As with all the city’s busy attractions, the sooner you get to Sacré-Coeur the more you will have it to yourself – it opens at 8am. Later in the morning, enjoy the bustle of Montmartre with tourists having their portraits painted by the area’s street artists in the place du Tertre. There are plenty of places to choose for a coffee, but the one most of the artists frequent is the Clairon des Chasseurs (
3 pl du Tertre01 42 62 40 08).
For art of a more surreal kind, pay a visit to the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí . Head down rue des Saules to continue the artistic theme with lunch at La Maison Rose (
2 rue de l’Abreuvoir01 42 57 66 75). Utrillo once painted this pretty pink restaurant.
Afternoon
After lunch, the Musée de Montmartre is nearby, as are the Montmartre Vineyards, and the little Cimetière St-Vincent where you will find Maurice Utrillo’s grave.
Head back up to rue Lepic to see the Moulin de la Galette before heading towards the boulevard de Clichy. Here you will see the sleazy side of Pigalle life, although the Musée de l’Erotisme is a more tasteful interpretation.
To the east is a great bar for an apéritif, La Fourmi (
74 rue des Martyrs01 42 64 70 35). Then end the day with a show at the world-famous Moulin Rouge cabaret.
Artists who Lived in Montmartre
Pablo Picasso
Picasso (1881–1973) painted Les Demoiselles d’Avignon in 1907 while living at the Bateau-Lavoir. It is regarded as the painting which inspired the Cubism movement, which he launched with fellow residents Georges Braque and Juan Gris.
Salvador Dalí
The Catalan painter (1904– 89) came to Paris in 1929 and held his first Surrealist exhibition that year. He kept a studio in Montmartre, and his work is now celebrated in the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalì.
Dalì sculpture
Vincent Van Gogh
The Dutch genius (1853–90) lived for a time on the third floor of 54 rue Lepic. Many of his early paintings were inspired by the Moulin de la Galette windmill.
Pierre-Auguste Renoir
Renoir (1841–1919) is another artist who found inspiration in the Moulin de la Galette, when he lived at 12 rue Cortot. For a time he laid tables at Au Lapin Agile.
Edouard Manet
Manet (1832–83) frequented Montmartre’s artist haunts and scandalized the art world with his paintings of nudes, including the famous Olympia .
Maurice Utrillo
Utrillo (1883–1955) often painted the Auberge de la Bonne-Franquette, an atmospheric depiction of old Montmartre. His mother was the artist Suzanne Valadon and they both lived at 12 rue Cortot, now the Musée de Montmartre.
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec
More than any other artist, Toulouse-Lautrec (1864–1901) is associated with Montmartre for his sketches and posters of dancers at the Moulin Rouge and other dance halls. They epitomize the era to this day (see Jane Avril Dancing).
Toulouse-Lautrec
Raoul Dufy
The painter Dufy (1877– 1953) lived at Villa Guelma on the boulevard de Clichy from 1911 to 1953, when he was at the height of his career.
Amedeo Modigliani
The Italian painter (1884–1920) and sculptor arrived in Paris in 1906, when he was 22, and was greatly influenced by Toulouse-Lautrec and the other artists on the Montmartre scene.
Edgar Degas
Edgar Degas was born in Paris in 1834 and lived in the city for the whole of his life, most of the time in Montmartre. He died here in 1917 and is buried in the Montmartre cemetery.
Places to Escape the Crowds
St-Jean l’Evangéliste de Montmartre
This 1904 church is a clash of styles, from Moorish to Art Nouveau.
21 rue des Abbesses, 75018
Open daily
Free
Montmartre City Hall
On display in this fine building are two Utrillo paintings.
1 pl Jules-Joffrin, 75018
Metro Jules Joffrin
Hameau des Artistes
This little hamlet of artists’ studios is private, but no one will mind if you take a quiet look round.
11 ave Junot, 75018
Musée de la Vie Romantique
Writer George Sand frequently visited the owner of this house, artist Ary Scheffer. The building is now devoted to her works.
16 rue Chaptal, 75009
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
Admission charge
Musée Gustave Moreau
The former home of Symbolist artist Moreau now displays a large collection of his works.
14 rue de La Rochefoucauld, 75009
Open 10am–12:45pm, 2–5:15pm Wed–Mon
Admission charge
Halle Saint Pierre
A fascinating cultural centre that exhibits naive, folk and “raw” art (Art Brut).
2 rue Ronsard, 75018
01 42 58 72 89
Open 10am–6pm daily
Admission charge
Cité Véron
This cul-de-sac is home to the Académie des Arts Chorégraphiques, a prestigious dance school.
92 blvd de Clichy, 75018
Square Suzanne-Buisson
Named after a World War II Resistance fighter, this square is a romantic spot.
Chapelle des Martyrs
Also known as the Martyrium, this 19th-century chapel is said to be on the spot where St Denis was beheaded by the Romans in AD 250.
11 rue Yvonne-Le-Tac, 75018
Chapel: open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; crypt: open 3–6pm Fri
Admission charge
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Cabarets and Clubs
Au Lapin Agile
Poets and artists not only drank in this cabaret club, some such as Renoir and Verlaine also laid tables. Picasso even paid his bill with one of his Harlequin paintings (see Au Lapin Agile).
Au Lapin Agile
Moulin Rouge
As old as the Eiffel Tower (1889) and as much a part of the Parisian image, today’s troupe of 60 Doriss Girls are the modern versions of Jane Avril and La Goulue (see Moulin Rouge).
82 blvd de Clichy, 75018
Moulin Rouge
Autour de Midi et Minuit
Tuck into delicious bistro food before heading into the small vaulted cellar for a jazz concert.
11 rue Lepic, 75018
Closed Mon, end Feb, Aug
Chez Madame Arthur
The entertainment at this club is provided by drag artists and transsexuals – you won’t need much French to understand.
75 bis rue des Martyrs, 75018
La Nouvelle Eve
One of the lesser-known cabaret venues. Its intimate nature does not undermine the professionalism of the shows.
25 rue Fontaine, 75009
Hammam Club
This North African-style restaurant turns into a late-night club with DJ and a dance floor.
94 rue d’Amsterdam, 75009
Cabaret Michou
Outrageous drag artists and a legendary compère whose behaviour can never be predicted, this is close to the original spirit of Montmartre cabaret.
80 rue des Martyrs, 75018
Folies Pigalle
This former strip club is now a leading dance venue and popular among the gay community.
11 pl Pigalle, 75018
Le Divan du Monde
World music is played here, live and DJ, with regular dance events and concerts too.
75 rue des Martyrs, 75018
Places to Eat
Le Barramundi
The emphasis here is on unpretentious international cuisine.
3 rue Taitbout, 75009
01 47 70 21 21
Closed Sat L, Sun
L’Alsaco
This Alsatian bar-restaurant is a boisterous place noted for its charcuterie and wines.
10 rue Condorcet, 75009
01 45 26 44 31
Chez Jean
This 1950s brasserie boasts fine contemporary cuisine and a Michelin star.
8 rue St-Lazare, 75009
01 48 78 62 73
Closed Sat L, Sun, Aug
Le Pétrelle
This small restaurant has an offbeat, even eccentric, decor, an intimate atmosphere and an excellent, no-choice menu of inventive cuisine using only local produce.
34 rue Pétrelle, 75009
01 42 82 11 02
Rose Bakery
The square quiches, carrot cakes and sticky puddings have made this eatery legendary.
46 rue des Martyrs, 75009
01 42 82 12 80
Closed Mon
Charlot “Roi des Coquillages”
Art Deco brasserie, specializing in seafood.
81 blvd de Clichy, 75009
01 53 20 48 00
No disabled access
L’Entracte
Off-the-beaten-track bistro. Simple dishes like pepper steak.
44 rue d’Orsel, 75018
01 46 06 93 41
Closed Aug
Le Ch’ti Catalan
The cooking at this friendly bistro hops from northern France to southern Spain with happy results.
4 rue de Navarin, 75009
01 44 63 04 33
Closed Sun
Au Négociant
A cross between bar, pub and restaurant. Simple dishes such as pâté or potato pie.
27 rue Lambert, 75018
01 46 06 15 11
Closed Sat–Sun, Aug
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