Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters
Two of Paris’s best-known landmarks, the golden-domed Hôtel des Invalides and the Eiffel Tower, are found in these quarters. Large parts of the area were created in the 19th century, when there was still room to construct wide avenues and grassy esplanades. To the east of the Invalides are numerous stately mansions now converted into embassies, and the French parliament. Jean Nouvel’s Musée du Quai Branly is a striking feature beside the Seine.
Young NapoleonThe most famous alumnus of the Ecole Militaire was Napoleon Bonaparte, who was admitted as a cadet, aged 15, in 1784 and deemed “fit to be an excellent sailor”. He graduated as a lieutenant in the artillery, and his passing-out report stated that “he could go far if the circumstances are right”. The rest, as they say, is history. |
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Sights
Les Egouts
In a city of glamour and grandeur, the sewers (egouts) of Paris are an incongruously popular attraction. They date from the Second Empire (1851–70), when Baron Haussmann was transforming the city. The sewers, which helped to sanitize and ventilate Paris, are considered one of his finest achievements. Most of the work was done by an engineer named Belgrand. The 2,100-km (1,300-mile) network covers the area from Les Halles to La Villette – if laid end-to-end the sewers would stretch from Paris to Istanbul. An hour-long tour includes a walk through some of the tunnels, where you’ll see water pipes and various cables. The Paris Sewers Museum, which is situated in the sewers beneath the Quai d’Orsay on the Left Bank, tells the story of the city’s water and sewers, from their beginnings to the present day. There is an audio-visual show and a museum shop.
Face au 93, quai d’Orsay, 75007
Open May–Sep: 11am–5pm Sat–Wed; Oct–Apr: 11am–4pm Sat–Wed
Closed two weeks mid-Jan
Admission charge
Musée de l’Armée
The Army Museum contains one of the largest and most comprehensive collections of arms, armour and displays on military history in the world. There are weapons ranging from pre-historic times to the end of World War II, representing countries around the world. Housed in the Hôtel des Invalides, the galleries occupy the old refectories in two wings on either side of the courtyard. The museum ticket includes entry to the Musée des Plans-Reliefs, the Historial Charles de Gaulle, the Musée de L’Ordre de la Liberation and Napoleon’s Tomb (see Musée de l’Armée Exhibits).
Hôtel des Invalides, 75007
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon, (until 9pm Tue & 5pm in winter)
Closed 1st Mon of month (except Jul–Sep), public hols
Admission charge
Musée de l’Armée
Musée Rodin
An impressive collection of works by the sculptor and artist Auguste Rodin (1840–1917) is housed in a splendid 18th-century mansion, the Hôtel Biron, where he spent the last nine years of his life. The rooms display his works roughly chronologically, including his sketches and watercolours. Masterpieces such as The Kiss and Eve are displayed in the airy rotundas. One room is devoted to works by his talented model and muse, Camille Claudel, and Rodin’s personal collection of paintings by Van Gogh, Monet and other masters hang on the walls. The museum’s other highlight is the gardens, the third-largest private gardens in Paris, where famous works such as Balzac and The Gates of Hell stand among the lime trees and rose bushes.
79 rue de Varenne, 75007
Open 9:30am–5:45pm Tue–Sun (until 4:45pm in winter), gardens open one hour later
Admission charge
Musée Rodin
Musée du Quai Branly
The aim of this museum is to showcase the arts of Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. The collection boasts nearly 300,000 artifacts, including a fantastic array of African instruments, Gabonese masks, Aztec statues and 17th-century painted animal hides from North America (once the pride of the French royal family). Designed by Jean Nouvel, the building is an exhibit in itself: glass is ingeniously used to allow the surrounding greenery to act as a natural backdrop to the collection.
37 quai Branly, 75007
Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sun (until 9pm Thu–Sat)
Admission charge
Rue Cler
The cobblestone pedestrianized road that stretches south of rue de Grenelle to avenue de La Motte-Picquet is the most exclusive street market in Paris. Here greengrocers, fishmongers, butchers, and wine merchants sell top-quality produce to the well-heeled residents of the area. Tear yourself away from the mouth-watering cheeses and pastries, however, to feast your eyes on the Art Nouveau buildings at Nos. 33 and 151.
Ecole Militaire
At the urging of his mistress Madame Pompadour, Louis XV approved the building of the Royal Military Academy in 1751. Although its purpose was to educate the sons of impoverished officers, a grand edifice was designed by Jacques-Ange Gabriel, architect of the place de la Concorde and the Petit Trianon at Versailles, and completed in 1773. The central pavilion with its quadrangular dome and Corinthian pillars is a splendid example of the French Classical style.
1 pl Joffre, 75007
Open to the public by special permission only (apply in writing)
UNESCO
The headquarters of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) were built in 1958 by an international team of architects from France (Zehrfuss), Italy (Nervi) and the United States (Breuer). Their Y-shaped building of concrete and glass may be unremarkable, but inside the showcase of 20th-century art by renowned international artists is well worth a visit. There is a huge mural by Picasso, ceramics by Joan Miró, and a 2nd-century mosaic from El Djem in Tunisia. Outside is a giant mobile by Alexander Calder and a peaceful Japanese garden.
7 pl de Fontenoy, 75007
01 45 68 10 00
By appointment only
Free
Assemblée Nationale
Built for the daughter of Louis XIV in 1722, the Palais Bourbon has housed the lower house of the French parliament since 1827. The Council of the Five Hundred met here during the Revolution, and it was the headquarters of the German Occupation during World War II. Napoleon added the Classical riverfront façade in 1806 to complement La Madeleine across the river.
33 Quai d’Orsay, 75007
Open for tours only (identity papers compulsory) 10am, 2pm, 3pm Sat, except public hols and when parliament is in session
Free
A Day Around the Invalides Quarter
Morning
Begin the day with an early morning visit to the Musée Rodin . A magnificent collection of Rodin’s works are displayed both indoors and outside in the attractive garden. There are also excellent temporary exhibitions. Stop for a coffee at the garden café with its leafy terrace.
Move on to the Hôtel des Invalides next door to see Napoleon’s Tomb and the Musée de l’Armée. From here, walk along the esplanade towards the Seine and the Pont Alexandre III , turning left before the river on to rue de l’Université. Stop here for lunch at Le Divellec , one of the best fish restaurants in Paris.
Afternoon
After lunch, follow the rue de l’Université to the Musée du Quai Branly where you can enjoy the fascinating collections of tribal art and superb modern architecture. The Café Branly, located in the museum’s restful gardens, is the perfect place to stop and enjoy a cup of tea.
Make sure you book ahead, by phone or online, for a late-afternoon visit to the Eiffel Tower . The views are spectacular at dusk. Splash out on dinner at the world-famous Le Jules Verne restaurant on level 2, or head back to the Branly museum, and it’s rooftop restaurant Les Ombres .
Musée de l’Armée Exhibits
Modern Department (1648–1792)
The modern royal army, from its birth under Louis XIV to the training of Revolutionary soldiers, is related through objects such as some fine early rifles.
Modern Department (1792–1871)
Displays here cover the beginnings of the Revolution to the Paris Commune, including the personal belongings of Napoleon I.
Ancient Armoury Department
The third-largest collection of armoury in the world is on show in the northeast refectory. Assembled over a 40-year period since the 1960s, these items had been lost since the Revolution.
17th-Century Murals
In the Ancient Armoury Department, restored 17th-century murals by Joseph Parrocel celebrate Louis XIV’s military conquests.
The World Wars
Two rooms on the second floor are devoted to World War I and World War II. Documents, uniforms, maps, photographs and other memorabilia bring the conflicts of both wars to life, often to disturbing effect.
Banners and Trophies
A small collection of 17th–20th-century military banners is displayed in the east wing.
Historial of Charles de Gaulle
This state-of-the-art display on the life of the former wartime president is in the Cour d’Honneur, Orient wing.
Musée des Plans Reliefs
On the fourth floor of the east wing is a collection of relief models of French towns showing the development of fortifications from the 17th century onwards.
Artillery
Over 800 cannons are displayed inside and in front of the museum.
Salle Orientale
This collection of arms and armour reflects the military styles of different nations.
Views
Top of the Eiffel Tower
There is nowhere in Paris to match the view from the top of the tower, so hope for good weather. With the cityscape and the sparkling waters of the Seine below, it is the highlight of any visit (see Eiffel Tower).
View from the Eiffel Tower
Pont d’Iéna
There is no bad approach to the Eiffel Tower, but the best is from the Trocadéro direction, walking straight to the tower across the Pont d’Iéna.
Base of the Eiffel Tower
Everybody wants to race to the top, but don’t neglect the view from the ground. Looking directly up at the magnificent structure makes one appreciate the feat of engineering all the more (see Eiffel Tower).
Saxe-Breteuil Market
This old street market in avenue de Saxe is a little off the usual tourist track, but the view of the Eiffel Tower above the fruit and vegetable stalls is totally Parisian and will especially appeal to photographers.
7am–2:30pm Thu, 7am–3pm Sat
Pont Alexandre III
Flanked by impressive gilded statues, superb views can be enjoyed from this magnificent bridge (see Pont Alexandre III).
Pont Alexandre III and Hôtel des Invalides
Musée Rodin Gardens
The golden Dôme church gleams through the trees that line these delightful gardens.
Hôtel des Invalides
The majestic gilded dome above Napoleon’s tomb dominates the skyline. It is a particularly superb sight when seen from the river on a sunny morning (see Hôtel des Invalides).
Pont de la Concorde
The Egyptian obelisk at the centre of place de la Concorde is at its most impressive from the bridge.
Musée du Quai Branly
Jean Nouvel’s bold, colourful building is best seen from the riverside. Note the striking “Green Wall” at the west end (see Musée du Quai Branly).
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Mansions
Hôtel Biron
Built in 1730, this elegant mansion was home to the duc de Biron. From 1904 it was transformed into state-owned artists’ studios. Among its residents was Auguste Rodin (1840–1917), who agreed to donate his works to the nation in return for his apartment and studio. After the sculptor’s death the house became the Musée Rodin.
Hôtel de Biron
Hôtel Matignon
One of the most beautiful mansions in the area, built in 1721, is now the official residence of the French prime minister.
57 rue de Varenne, 75007
Hôtel de Boisgelin
Built in 1732 by Jean Sylvain Cartaud, this mansion has housed the Italian Embassy since 1938.
47 rue de Varenne, 75007
Hôtel de Gallifet
This attractive mansion was built in 1739 with Classical styling. It is now the Italian Institute.
50 rue de Varenne, 75007
Hôtel d’Estrées
Three floors of pilasters feature on this 1713 mansion. Formerly the Russian embassy, Czar Nicolas II lived here in 1896. It is now a government building.
79 rue de Grenelle, 75007
Hôtel d’Avaray
Dating from 1728, this mansion belonged to the Avaray family for nearly 200 years. It became the Dutch Embassy in 1920.
85 rue de Grenelle, 75007
Hôtel de Brienne
This mansion houses the Ministry of Defence, so no photos are allowed. Napoleon’s mother lived here from 1806–17.
14–16 rue St Dominique, 75007
Hôtel de Noirmoutiers
Built in 1722, this was once the army staff headquarters and World War I commander Marshal Foch died here in 1929. It now houses ministerial offices.
138– 140 rue de Grenelle, 75007
Hôtel de Monaco de Sagan
Now the Polish Embassy, this 1784 mansion has fountains framing the entrance. It served as the British Embassy until 1825.
57 rue St-Dominique, 75007
Places to Eat
Le Divellec
One of the best fish restaurants in town, including oysters, salmon and sea bass.
107 rue de l’Université, 75007
01 45 51 91 96
Closed Sat–Sun, Aug, 1 wk Dec–Jan
Le Violin d’Ingres
Chef Stéphane Schmidt is another shining star. Sea bass in almond pastry appeals.
135 rue St-Dominique, 75007
01 45 55 15 05
Closed Sun–Mon
Le Soleil
This piece of the Riviera is just steps from the Eiffel Tower. Simple cooking with a southern French influence.
153 rue de Grenelle, 75007
01 45 51 54 12
Closed Sun–Mon, 5 weeks Jul–Aug
L’Ami Jean
Inventive Basque dishes such as marinated scallops with ewe’s milk cheese.
27 rue Malar, 75007
01 47 05 86 89
Closed Sun, Mon
No disabled access
L’Agassin
Try classic skate wing with caper-butter sauce at this traditional French restaurant.
8 rue Malar, 75007
01 47 05 94 27
Closed Sun–Mon, Aug
Les Ombres
Fine food from rising star Arno Busquet. Ask for a table with a view of the Eiffel Tower.
27 quai Branly, 75007
01 47 53 68 00
Chez les Anges
Owner Jacques Lacipière ensures that the daily changing menu features the freshest ingredients.
54 boulevard La Tour Maubourg, 75007
01 47 05 89 86
Closed Sat–Sun
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