St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters
This area of the left bank is possibly the most stimulating in Paris. St-Germain-des-Prés, centred around the city’s oldest church, is a synonym for Paris’s café society, made famous by the writers and intellectuals who held court here in the first half of the 20th century. Although it’s more touristy today, a stroll around the back streets reveals lovely old houses plastered with plaques noting famous residents. The Latin Quarter takes its name from the Latin spoken by students of the Sorbonne until the Revolution. The scholastic centre of Paris for more than 700 years, it continues to buzz with student bookshops, cafés and jazz clubs. It was also the site of a Roman settlement and remains from that era can be seen in the Musée du Moyen-Age. The area’s western boundary is the bustling boulevard Saint-Michel and to the south is the tranquil greenery of the Luxembourg Quarter.
Jazz on the Left BankJazz has been played in Paris, especially on the Left Bank, since the 1920s. Numbers of black musicians moved here from the US as they found France less racially prejudiced, and Paris became a second home for many jazz musicians such as Sidney Bechet. The city has never lost its love of jazz, nor jazz its love for the city. |
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Sights
Jardin du Luxembourg
This 25-ha (60-acre) park is a swathe of green paradise on the very urban Left Bank. The formal gardens are set around the Palais du Luxembourg, with broad terraces circling the central octagonal pool. A highlight of the garden is the beautiful Medici Fountain. Many of the garden’s statues were erected during the 19th century, among them the monument to the painter Eugène Delacroix and the statue of Ste Geneviève, patron saint of Paris. There is also a children’s playground, open-air café, a bandstand, tennis courts, a puppet theatre and even a bee-keeping school (see Parks and Gardens).
Jardin du Luxembourg
Medici Fountain, Jardin du Luxembourg
St-Sulpice
Begun in 1646, this enormous church unsurprisingly took 134 years to build. Its Classical façade by the Florentine architect Giovanni Servandoni features a two-tiered colonnade and two incongruously matched towers. Notice the two holy water fonts by the front door, made from huge shells given to François I by the Venetian Republic. Jacob Wrestling with the Angel and other splendid murals by Delacroix (1798–1863) are in the chapel to the right of the main door.
Pl St-Sulpice, 75006
Open 7:30am–7:30pm daily
Free
St-Sulpice
La Sorbonne
Paris’s world-famous university (see La Sorbonne), was founded in 1253 and was originally intended as a theology college for poor students. It soon became the country’s main centre for theological studies. It was named after Robert de Sorbon, confessor to Louis IX. Philosophers Thomas Aquinas (c.1226–74) and Roger Bacon (1214–92) taught here; Italian poet Dante (1265–1321), St Ignatius Loyola (1491–1556), the founder of the Jesuits, and church reformer John Calvin (1509–64) are among its list of alumni. Its tradition for conservatism led to its closure during the Revolution (it was re-opened by Napoleon in 1806) and to the student riots of 1968 (see Top 10 Events in the French Revolution).
47 rue des Ecoles, 75005
01 40 46 21 11
Group tours only, Mon–Fri and one Sat each month (advance booking)
Admission charge
Clock, La Sorbonne
Musée National du Moyen Age
This impressive mansion was built by the abbots of Cluny in 1330 and now houses a magnificent collection of art, from Gallo-Roman antiquity to the 15th century. It adjoins the ruins of 2nd-century Roman baths (thermes) with their huge vaulted frigidarium (cold bath). Nearby are the 21 carved stone heads of the kings of Judea from Notre-Dame, decapitated during the Revolution. The museum’s highlight is the exquisite Lady and the Unicorn tapestry series, representing the five senses (see Musée National du Moyen Age).
6 pl Paul-Painlevé, 75005
Open 9:15am–5:45pm Wed–Mon
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec
Admission charge
Boulevard St-Germain
This famous Left Bank boulevard runs for more than 3 km (2 miles) anchored by the bridges of the Seine at either end. At its heart is the church of St-Germain-des-Prés, established in 542, although the present church dates from the 11th century. Beyond the famous cafés, Flore and Les Deux Magots, the boulevard runs west past art galleries, bookshops and designer boutiques to the Pont de la Concorde. To the east, it cuts across the Latin Quarter through the pleasant street market in the place Maubert, to join the Pont de Sully which connects to the Ile St-Louis.
Boulevard St-Germain
Boulevard St-Michel
The main drag of the Latin Quarter was created in the late 1860s as part of Baron Haussmann’s city-wide makeover (see The Second Empire), and named after a chapel that once stood near its northern end. It’s now lined with a lively mix of cafés, clothes shops and cheap restaurants. Branching off to the east are rues de la Harpe and de la Huchette, which date back to medieval times. The latter is an enclave of the city’s Greek community, with many souvlaki stands and Greek restaurants. In the place St-Michel is a huge bronze fountain that depicts St Michael killing a dragon.
Quai de la Tournelle
From this riverbank, just before the Pont de l’Archevêché there are lovely views across to Notre-Dame. The main attraction of this and the adjacent Quai de Montebello, however, are the dark-green stalls of the bouquinistes . The Pont de la Tournelle also offers splendid views up and down the Seine.
Musée Maillol
Dina Vierny, who modelled for the artist Aristide Maillol (1861–1944) from the ages of 15 to 25, went on to set up this foundation dedicated largely to his works. Set in an 18th-century mansion, it features his sculpture, paintings, drawings, engravings and terracotta works. A wonderful collection of works by other 20th-century artists, many of whom worked in Paris, including Picasso, Matisse, Dufy, Duchamp, Kandinsky and Poliakoff, is also on show.
59–61 rue de Grenelle, 75007
Open 11am–6pm Wed–Mon
Admission charge
A Day on the Left Bank
Morning
This area is as much about atmosphere as sightseeing, so take time to soak up some of that Left Bank feeling. Begin on the Quai de la Tournelle, strolling by the booksellers here and on the adjacent Quai de Montebello, which runs parallel to rue de la Bûcherie home to Shakespeare and Company .
From here head south down any street away from the river to the busy boulevard St-Germain. Turn right for two famous cafés, the Flore and the Deux Magots, and stop for a break among the locals talking the morning away.
Cut your way south to the rue de Grenelle and the Musée Maillol, a delightful lesser-known museum. Then enjoy lunch at L’Oeillade (
10 rue St-Simon01 42 22 01 60), a bistro full of Gallic atmosphere.
Afternoon
The later you reach the Musée d’Orsay the less crowded it will be. Spend an hour or two exploring the collection. The most popular displays are the Impressionists on the upper level.
After the museum visit, enjoy tea and a cake at Christian Constant, one of the best chocolate-makers in Paris (
37 rue d’Assas, 7500601 53 63 15 15).Or if it’s dinner time, stay at the Musée d’Orsay and indulge in their set menu (Thu only).
Booksellers
Musée d’Orsay Bookshop
As well as its wonderful collections, the museum has a bewilderingly large and busy art bookshop (see Musée d’Orsay).
La Hune
Renowned literary hang-out. Good collections on art, photography and literature.
170 blvd St-Germain, 75006
Gibert Jeune
A cluster of bookshops that sell everything from travel guides and French literature to cookery books and children’s stories.
3 and 5 place St-Michel, 27 quai St-Michel, 37 rue de la Huchette, 75005
Album
Specialist in comic books, which are big business in France, from Tintin to erotica.
8 rue Dante, 75005
Librairie Présence Africaine
Specialist on books on Africa, as the name suggests. Good information point, too, if you want to eat African food or hear African music.
25 bis rue des Écoles, 75005
Tea & Tattered Pages
An excellent venue for a relaxed afternoon’s browsing among thousands of English-language books; you can have a cuppa, too.
24 rue Mayet, 75006
Librairie Maeght
Specialist in books on art adjoining the Maeght art gallery, with a good collection of posters, postcards and other items.
42 rue du Bac, 75007
Specialist Food Shops
Patrick Roger
One of a new generation of chocolatiers, Patrick Roger already has legions of fans thanks to his lifelike sculptures and ganache-filled chocolates.
108 boulevard St Germain, 75006
Closed Sun
Michel Chaudun
Michel Chaudun produces chocolates so divine that le tout Paris drops by in chauffeur-driven cars for a regular fix.
149 rue de l’Université, 75007
Closed Sun
Jean-Paul Hévin
Another of Paris’s distinguished chocolatiers. Elegant, minimalist presentation and superb flavour combinations.
3 rue Vavin, 75006
Poilâne
Founded in the 1930s, this tiny bakery produces rustic, naturally leavened loaves in a Roman-style, wood-fired oven.
8 rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006
La Dernière Goutte
The owners of this English-speaking wine shop, which has a good selection of bottles from small producers, also run the nearby wine bar Fish.
6 rue Bourbon Le Château, 75006
Pierre Hermé Paris
Here are some of the city’s very finest cakes and pastries, including what is said to be the best chocolate gâteau in Paris.
72 rue Bonaparte, 75006
Ryst Dupeyron
Wine shop specializing in fine Bordeaux, rare spirits and sparkling champagne.
79 rue du Bac, 75007
Sadaharu Aoki
Aoki cleverly incorporates Japanese flavours such as yuzu, green tea, and black sesame into intoxicating classic French pastries that taste as good as they look.
35 rue de Vaugirard 75006
Closed Mon
Gérard Mulot
Here you’ll find some of the finest pastries in Paris, along with some truly miraculous macaroons.
76 rue de Seine, 75006
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Late-Night Bars
Le Crocodile
Potent cocktails are what this schoolroom-themed bar is all about. Choose from 350 combinations. Happy hour runs from 10pm until midnight.
6 rue Royer-Collard, 75005
01 43 54 32 37
Closed Sun
El Palenque
This lively Argentinian place brings Latin America to the Latin Quarter. Also serves great meat dishes.
5 rue de la Montagne-Ste-Geneviève, 75005
L’Assignat
Pleasant, bright family-run L’Assignat is full of regulars propping up the bar with a beer or a glass of wine.
7 rue Guénégaud, 75006
Mezzanine
The lounge bar of the legendary Alcazar is the place to be seen. Drinks are not expensive given the buzz and the wonderful location.
Alcazar
62 rue Mazarine, 75006
Le Mondrian
Just the place to wind down after a night of joie de vivre.
148 blvd St-Germain, 75006
Le Bob Cool
On a quiet backstreet, this shabby-chic bar plays host to thirsty local nighthawks as well as trendier partygoers on latenight cocktails.
15 rue des Grands Augustins, 75006
Coolin
An Irish bar that doesn’t try too hard. Appeals to drinkers, talkers and listeners of all ages, who like their draught Guinness with a blarney chaser.
15 rue Clément, 75006
L’Urgence Bar
Hit this hospital-themed bar for cocktails with names like “Laxative” and “Liposuction”, served in either a test-tube or baby’s bottle.
45 rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006
Literary Haunts
La Palette
This café has been patronized by the likes of Henry Miller Apollinaire and Jacques Prévert.
43 rue de Seine, 75006
Open 8am–2am Mon–Sat
Les Deux Magots
This was home to the literary and artistic élite of Paris as well as a regular haunt of Surrealists such as François Mauriac (see Les Deux Magots).
6 pl St-Germain-des-Prés, 75006
Open 8am–2am daily
Café de Flore
Guillaume Apollinaire founded his literary magazine, Les Soirées de Paris, here in 1912 (see Café de Flore).
172 blvd St-Germain, 75006
Open 7am–1:30am daily
Café de Flore
Le Procope
The oldest café in Paris, this was a meeting place for writers such as Voltaire, Hugo, Balzac and Zola.
13 rue de l’ Ancienne-Comédie, 75006
Open noon–1am daily
Brasserie Lipp
Ernest Hemingway pays homage to this café in A Moveable Feast. It was also visited by Symbolist novelist André Gide.
151 blvd St-Germain, 75006
Open 12:15pm–2am daily
Hotel Pont Royal
Henry Miller drank here at the time of writing his Tropic of Capricorn and Tropic of Cancer.
5–7 rue de Montalembert, 75007
Open 8am–midnight daily
Shakespeare and Co
This renowned bookshop was once described by novelist Henry Miller as a “wonderland of books” (see Shakespeare and Co).
Shakespeare and Co
Le Sélect
F. Scott Fitzgerald and Truman Capote were among many American writers who drank in this café-restaurant.
99 blvd du Montparnasse, 75006
Open 8am–2am daily
La Coupole
Opened in 1927, this former coal depot was transformed by artists into a lavish, Art Deco brasserie. It attracted such luminaries as Louis Aragon and Françoise Sagan (see La Coupole).
Le Petit St-Benoît
Camus, de Beauvoir and James Joyce are among the many writers who once took their daily coffee here.
4 rue St Benoît, 75006
Open noon–midnight daily
Picnic Providers
Rue de Buci Market
Head for this chic daily market where you’ll find the very best regional produce, wine and pastries (see Rue de Buci).
Rue de Buci market
Maubert Market
A small market specializing in organic produce every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday morning. A good place to pick up olives, cheese, tomatoes and fruit.
Pl Maubert, 75006
Fromagerie Quatrehomme
The crème de la crème of cheese in Paris. Aged slowly and sold at peak ripeness.
62 rue de Sèvres, 75007
Charcuterie Charles Nicole
This award-winning charcuterie shouldn’t be missed. Flavoured sausages and boudin blanc are specialities.
10 rue Dauphine, 75006
Marché Raspail
An organic market held on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday mornings. Superb produce but pricey.
Blvd Raspail, 75006
Charcuterie Coesnon
Produce from Normandy is sold at this charcuterie – pâtés, ham, cheese and cider too.
30 rue Dauphine, 75006
Kayser
If you don’t want to make up your own picnic then try a ready-made sandwich from the bakery. Mouthwatering combinations include goat’s cheese with pear.
14 rue Monge, 75005
Places to Eat
L’Épi Dupin
The dishes are sublime, such as cod with saffron leeks.
11 rue Dupin, 75006
01 42 22 64 56
Closed Sat–Sun, Mon L, Aug
Les Bouquinistes
This bistro, owned by Guy Savoy, offers creative cooking on the banks of the Seine.
53 quai des Grands-Augustins, 75006
01 43 25 45 94
Closed Sat L, Sun
No disabled access
Lapérouse
Classic French cuisine served in a setting unchanged since 1766.
51 quai des Grands-Augustins, 75006
01 43 26 68 04
Closed Sat L, Sun, Aug
La Bastide Odéon
A taste of Provence from chef Gilles Ajuelos. Try the risotto with scallops.
7 rue Corneille, 75006
01 43 26 03 65
Closed Sun– Mon, Aug
No disabled access
Le Pré Verre
Dine on classic French cooking with Asian flourishes.
19 rue du Sommerard, 75005
01 43 54 59 47
Closed Sun–Mon, Aug
Les Papilles
Pick your wine straight off the shelves to accompany the stunning menu (see Les Papilles).
30 rue Gay Lussac, 75005
01 43 25 20 79
Closed Sun
No disabled access
Au Moulin à Vent
One of the best bistros in Paris, with frogs’ legs, escargots and Châteaubriand on the menu.
20 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard, 75005
01 43 54 99 37
Closed Sat L, Sun–Mon, Aug
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