Shopping Hours

Department stores and chain boutiques are usually open from 9:30am–7pm Monday to Saturday. Late-night shopping is on Thursdays until 9pm. Private boutiques often don’t open until 10 or 11am, and may be closed on Mondays and/or between noon and 2pm, but many open on Sundays. All food shops are open on Sunday morning.

Taxes

Different rates of sales tax (TVA) apply to most goods, varying between 5–25 per cent and are generally included in the stated price. No refunds are available on purchases of food, wine or tobacco. On other goods, tax can be refunded to non-EU citizens who spend more than €175 in one shop. Ask the store for the appropriate form.

Food

Shops such as Maille, Hédiard, Fauchon and Ladurée sell beautifully packaged delicacies. Ask to have your pungent French cheeses vacuum packed (sous vide). Place de Madeleine has several top-quality delis, (see Food Shops) or try one of the street markets for fresh produce.

Clothes

Paris is one of the world centres of fashion and is home to all the top names (see Designer Shops), but don’t forget to look out for the independent designers and labels often found nowhere else, such as Antoine et Lili and Isabel Marant. For vintage clothes try Espace Kiliwatch (62 rue Tiquetonne) and Didier Ludot in the Palais-Royal’s arcades.

Lingerie

French fashion isn’t all on the surface. Designers also produce beautiful lingerie or you can try specialist firms such as Lejaby, Lise Charmel, Aubade (available from good department stores) or Carine Gilsion (

18 rue de Grenelle

Perfume and Cosmetics

The Marionnaud and Sephora chains offer a huge variety of scents and make-up brands. Prices are usually reasonable too. For something different try Clara Molloy (Memo Boutique,

60 rue des Saints-Pères

Department and Concept Stores

Galeries Lafayettes, Au Printemps and Le Bon Marché are worth a visit just for their Belle Epoque interiors. Concept stores are recent arrivals – try L’Eclaireur (26 Champs-Elysées), which sells clothes and hosts art exhibitions and events.

Bric-a-brac, Books and Prints

The flea market at Saint-Ouen is good for bric-a-brac, while the Marché Malassis gallery stocks a range of 20th-century treasures. The bouqinistes by the Seine sell vintage posters and postcards. Shakespeare and Company is the place for rare books.

Music

The FNAC chain of shops stock a huge range of CDs, books, videos and computer software. The Virgin Megastore on the Champs-Elysées has several floors and shop-floor headphones to let you listen to the stock.

Stationery

French stationery can be exquisite and even chains such as Plein Ciel sell beautiful notebooks, diaries and address books. Independent shops include Magna Carta (101 rue du Bac), while Lamartine (118 rue de la Pompe) sells G. Lalo’s superb products.