The Champs-Elysées is undoubtedly the most famous street in Paris and the quarter which lies around it is brimming with wealth and power. It is home to the president of France, great haute couture fashion houses, embassies and consulates, and the five-star hotels and fine restaurants frequented by the French and foreign élite. The Champs-Elysées itself runs from the place de la Concorde to the place Charles de Gaulle, which is known as L’Etoile (the star) because of the 12 busy avenues that radiate out from it. It is the most stately stretch of the so-called Triumphal Way, built by Napoleon, where Parisians celebrate national events with parades or mourn at the funeral cortèges of the great and good.
La MarseillaiseThe stirring French national anthem was written in 1792 by a French army engineer named Claude Joseph Rouget de Lisle. He lived for a time in this district, at 15 rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré. The rousing song got its name from the troops from Marseille who were prominent in the storming of the Tuileries during the Revolution (see Top 10 Events in the French Revolution). |
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Avenue des Champs-Elysées
One of the most famous avenues in the world came into being when the royal gardener André Le Nôtre planted an arbour of trees beyond the border of the Jardin des Tuileries in 1667. First called the Grand Cours (Great Way), it was later renamed the Champs-Elysées (Elysian Fields). In the mid-19th century the avenue acquired pedestrian paths, fountains, gas lights and cafés, and became the fashionable place for socializing and entertainment. Since the funeral of Napoleon in 1840, this wide thoroughfare has also been the route for state processions, victory parades and other city events. The Rond Point des Champs-Elysées is the prettiest part, with chestnut trees and flower beds. In recent years, formerly touristy parts have been revamped and flagship stores of international brands have been welcomed back. A walk along the avenue is still an essential Paris experience.
Avenue des Champs-Elysées
Grand Palais
This immense belle époque exhibition hall was built for the Universal Exhibition in 1900. Its splendid glass roof is a landmark of the Champs-Elysées. The façade, the work of three architects, is a mix of Art Nouveau ironwork, Classical stone columns and a mosaic frieze, with bronze horses and chariots at the four corners of the roof. The Galleries du Grand Palais host temporary art exhibitions.
3 ave du Général-Eisenhower, 75008
01 44 13 17 17
Open 10am–8pm Thu–Mon, 10am–10pm Wed (daily during exhibitions)
Closed 1 May, 25 Dec
Admission charge
Petit Palais
The “little palace” echoes its neighbour in style. Set around a semi-circular courtyard, with Ionic columns and a dome, the building now houses the Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris. This includes medieval and Renaissance art, 18th-century furniture and a collection of 19th-century paintings.
Ave Winston-Churchill, 75008
01 53 43 40 00
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
Closed public hols
Pont Alexandre III
Built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition to carry visitors over the Seine to the Grand and Petit Palais, this bridge is a superb example of the steel architecture and ornate Art Nouveau style popular at the time. Named after Alexander III of Russia, who laid the foundation stone, its decoration displays both Russian and French heraldry. The bridge creates a splendid thoroughfare from the Champs-Elysées to the Invalides (see Pont Alexandre III).
Pont Alexandre III
Palais de la Découverte
Set in a wing of the Grand Palais, this museum showcasing scientific discovery was created by a physicist for the World’s Fair of 1937. The exhibits focus on invention and innovation in the sciences, from biology to chemistry, to astronomy and physics, with interactive exhibits and demonstrations (the magnetism show is especially spectacular). There is also a planetarium, while the Planète Terre (Planet Earth) rooms examine global warming.
Ave Franklin-D-Roosevelt, 75008
Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sat, 10am–7pm Sun
Closed most public holidays
Admission charge
Rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré
Running roughly parallel to the Champs-Elysées, this is Paris’s equivalent of Fifth Avenue, Bond Street or Rodeo Drive. From Christian La Croix and Versace to Gucci and Hermès, the shopfronts read like a Who’s Who of fashion. Even if the prices may be out of reach, window-shopping is fun. There are also elegant antiques and art galleries. Look out for swallows that nest on many of the 19th-century façades.
Avenue Montaigne
In the 19th century the Avenue Montaigne was a nightlife hotspot. Parisians danced the night away at the Mabille Dance Hall until it closed in 1870 and Adolphe Sax made music with his newly invented saxophone in the Winter Garden. Today this chic avenue is a rival to the rue Faubourg-St-Honoré as the home to more haute couture houses such as Christian Dior and Valentino. There are also luxury hotels, top restaurants, popular cafés, and the Comédie des Champs-Elysées and Théâtre des Champs-Elysées.
Palais de l’Elysée
Built in 1718, after the Revolution this elegant palace was turned into a dance hall, then, in the 19th century, became the residence of Napoleon’s sister Caroline Murat, followed by his wife Empress Josephine. His nephew, Napoleon III, also lived here while plotting his 1851 coup. Since 1873 it has been home to the president of France. For this reason, it is worth noting that the palace guards don’t like people getting too close to the building (see Palais de l’Elysée).
55 rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré, 75008
Closed to the public
Musée Jacquemart-André
This fine display of art and furniture, once belonging to avid art collectors Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, is housed in a beautiful late 19th-century mansion. It is best known for its Italian Renaissance art, including frescoes by Tiepolo and Paolo Uccello’s St George and the Dragon (c.1435). The reception rooms feature the art of the 18th-century “Ecole française”, with paintings by François Boucher and Jean-Honoré Fragonard. Flemish masters are in the library.
158 blvd Haussmann, 75008
01 45 62 11 59
Open 10am–6pm daily
Admission charge
The Champs-Elysées is an area for leisurely strolls. Begin by window-shopping along one side of the avenue Montaigne, where Prada, Nina Ricci, Dior and many more have their flagship stores – the area oozes money. Have a break in the Bar des Théâtres, where fashion names and the theatre crowd from the Comédie des Champs-Élysées across the street sometimes hang out (
6 ave Montaigne01 47 23 34 63).
Return up the other side of avenue Montaigne to the Champs-Elysées, for the stroll to the Arc de Triomphe. Here you will find many flagship shops of world-famous brands. Break for lunch at Spoon, Food and Wine , but get there early to get a table.
Continuing up the Champs-Elysées, look past the showrooms and fast food outlets to note the many interesting buildings which house them.
Take the underpass to the Arc de Triomphe and climb to the top for the views, which are superb at dusk when the avenues light up. Walk or take the metro to the rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré, for more designer shops.
For tea and cakes, La Galerie at the nearby Four Seasons George V hotel is a wonderfully elegant experience (served from 3–5pm).
8 Rue Artois
Here, in September 2001, the legendary Belgian mobster François Vanverbergh – godfather of the French Connection gang – fell victim to a drive-by assassin as he took his afternoon mineral water.
37 Avenue Montaigne
Having wowed Paris with her comeback performances, iconic German actress and singer Marlene Dietrich spent her reclusive final years in a luxury apartment here.
Pont de l’Alma
Diana, Princess of Wales, was killed in a tragic accident in the underpass here in 1997. Her unofficial monument nearby attracts thousands of visitors each year (see Liberty Flame).
31 Avenue George V, Hôtel George V
A roll-call of rockers – from the Rolling Stones and Jim Morrison to J-Lo and Ricky Martin – have made this their regular Paris home-from-home.
Hôtel d’Elysée-Palace
Mata Hari, the Dutch spy and exotic dancer, set up her lair in Room 113 before finally being arrested outside 25 Avenue Montaigne.
49 Avenue des Champs-Elysées
Author Charles Dickens may well have had “the best of times and the worst of times” when he resided here from 1855–6. Ten years earlier he had also lived at 38 Rue de Courcelles.
114 Avenue des Champs-Elysées
Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont planned many of his amazing aeronautical feats – notably that of circling the Eiffel Tower in an airship in 1901 – from this address.
102 Boulevard Haussmann
Hypochondriac author Marcel Proust lived in a soundproofed room here, turning memories into a masterwork.
1616
Paris’s grand avenue was first laid out when Marie de Médici, wife of Henri IV, had a carriage route, the Cours-la-Reine (Queen’s Way), constructed through the marshland along the Seine.
1667
Landscape gardener Le Nôtre lengthened the Jardin des Tuileries to meet the Cours-la-Reine, and opened up the view with a double row of chestnut trees, creating the Grand Cours.
1709
The avenue was re-named the Champs-Elysées (Elysian Fields). In Greek mythology, the Elysian Fields were the “place of ideal happiness”, the abode of the blessed after death.
1724
The Duke of Antin, overseer of the royal gardens, extended the avenue to the heights of Chaillot, the present site of the Arc de Triomphe.
1774
Architect Jacques-Germain Soufflot lowered the hill of the Champs-Elysées by 5 m (16 ft) to reduce the steep gradient, therefore making an easier and safer passage for residents’ horses and carriages.
26 August 1944
Parisians celebrated the liberation of the city from the German Nazi Occupation of World War II with triumphant processions and festivities.
30 May 1968
The infamous student demonstrations of May 1968, when student protests against state authority spilled over into riots and massive gatherings. De Gaulle and his supporters held a huge counter-demonstration here, marking a turning point in the uprising.
12 November 1970
The death of President Charles de Gaulle was an immense event in France, as he had been the single most dominant French political figure for 30 years. He was honoured by a silent march along the Champs-Elysées.
14 July 1989
The parade on Bastille Day marking the bicentennial of the Revolution, was a dazzling display of folk culture and avant-garde theatre. It was a distinct change from the usual military events, and was organized by Mitterand’s Culture Minister, Jack Lang.
12 July 1998
Huge, ecstatic crowds packed the Champs-Elysées to celebrate France’s football team winning the World Cup. People came from all over Paris to join in the festivities that captured the nation’s imagination.
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Nina Ricci Mode
After treating yourself to the gorgeous lingerie or jewellery, go round the corner on rue François 1er to The Ricci Club for menswear or the discount shop where last year’s fashions are sold.
39 ave Montaigne, 75008
Emanuel Ungaro
This shop carries the less expensive U line as well as Ungaro’s main collection.
2 ave Montaigne, 75008
Joseph
The largest of the four Joseph stores in Paris, selling knitwear, evening wear and accessories.
14 ave Montaigne, 75008
Jil Sander
Minimal and modern store, just like the clothes. Sander’s trouser suits, cashmere dresses and overcoats in neutral colours are displayed on four floors.
52 ave Montaigne, 75008
Chloé
Simple, classy, ready-to-wear designer womens’ clothes and accessories are sold in this minimalist temple of feminine chic.
44 ave Montaigne, 75008
Valentino
The Milanese designer’s range of sophisticated clothes for the society set and casual fashions for the younger Miss Valentino label are displayed in this elegant marble boutique.
17–19 ave Montaigne, 75008
MaxMara
The chic Italian womens-wear label promotes a sleek, well-groomed look with beautiful fabrics. Suits, coats, evening wear and the trendier Sportmax line are sold here.
31 ave Montaigne, 75008
Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée
Superchef Alain Ducasse’s flagship restaurant. Langoustines with caviar is just one mouthwatering bite (see Le Jules Verne).
25 ave Montaigne, 75008
01 53 67 65 00
Closed Mon–Wed L, Sat– Sun
Au Plaza Athénée
Les Ambassadeurs
Jacket and tie are required here. Filet mignon of suckling pig is one speciality.
10 pl de la Concorde, 75008
01 44 71 16 16
Spoon, Food and Wine
Alain Ducasse’s hip and innovative offshoot.
14 rue de Marignan, 75008
01 40 76 34 44
Closed Sat–Sun, Aug
Taillevent
One of the city’s best dining experiences. Langoustine parcels with shellfish pastry is a signature dish (see Taillevent).
15 rue Lamennais, 75008
01 44 95 15 01
Closed Sat–Sun, Aug
Gagnaire
Chef Pierre Gagnaire is legendary for his artistry for blending flavours, such as lamb cutlets with truffles.
6 rue Balzac, 75008
01 58 36 12 50
Closed Sat–Sun, mid-Jul–mid-Aug
No disabled access
Granterroirs
This relaxed grocery store-cum-bistro serves excellent, affordable food – a rarity in these parts.
30 rue de Miromesnil, 75008
01 47 42 18 18
Closed Sat–Sun, Aug
Le Boeuf sur le Toit
Fabulous Art Deco setting, and andouillettes (tripe sausages) are one speciality.
34 rue du Colisée, 75008
01 53 93 65 55
No disabled access
L’Atelier des Chefs
This popular cooking school charges €15 per hour (30 minutes of cooking followed by a meal). Classes are in French, though English translations are available.
10 rue de Penthièvre, 75008
01 53 30 05 82
Le Cinq
The George V’s stunning restaurant serves superb French cuisine with a fresh twist.
31 ave George V, 75008
01 49 52 70 00
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