Musée Picasso

When the Spanish-born artist Pablo Picasso died in 1973, his family donated thousands of his works to the French state in lieu of estate taxes. Thus Paris enjoys the largest collection of Picassos in the world. Housed in the Hôtel Salé, the museum displays the range of his artistic development, from his Blue and Pink Periods to Cubism, and reveals his proficiency in an astonishing range of techniques and materials (see Musée d’Orsay). The museum is closed for renovation work, which should be completed by 2012.

• 5 rue de Thorigny, 75003

• Closed for refurbishment from Aug 2009

• Admission charge (free first Sun of month)

• www.musee-picasso.fr

Musée Cognacq-Jay

This small but excellent museum portrays the sophisticated French lifestyle in the so-called Age of Enlightenment, which centred around Paris. The 18th-century art and furniture on display were once the private collection of Ernest Cognacq and his wife, Louise Jay, founders of the Samaritaine department store. It is superbly displayed in the Hôtel Donon, an elegant late 16th-century building with an 18th-century façade (see Musée Cognacq-Jay).

• 8 rue Elzévir, 75003

• Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun

• www.cognacq-jay.paris.fr

Place des Vosges

Paris’s oldest square is also one of the most beautiful in the world. The square was commissioned by Henri IV. Its 36 houses with red-gold brick and stone façades, slate roofs and dormer windows were laid out with striking symmetry in 1612. Originally built for silk workers, the likes of Cardinal Richelieu (1585–1642) and play-wright Molière (1622–73) quickly moved in and it remains an upper-class residential address. But everyone can enjoy a stroll around the area and the art galleries under the arcades.

Musée Carnavalet

Devoted to the history of Paris, this museum sprawls through two mansions, the 16th-century Carnavalet and 17th-century Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau. The former was the home of Madame de Sévigné, the famous letter-writer, from 1677–96 and a gallery here portrays her life. The extensive museum contains period rooms filled with art and portraits. Revolutionary artifacts and memorabilia of 18th-century philosophers Rousseau and Voltaire (see Musée Carnavalet).

• 23 rue de Sévigné, 75003

• Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun

• www.carnavalet.paris.fr

Place de la Bastille

Today this notorious square has become a busy traffic circle. Originally, the Bastille was a fortress built by Charles V to defend the eastern edge of the city, but it soon became a jail for political prisoners. Angry citizens, rising up against the excesses of the monarchy, stormed the Bastille 14 July 1789, setting off the French Revolution, and destroyed this hated symbol of oppression. In its place is the bronze Colonne de Juillet (July Column), 52 m (171 ft) high and crowned by the Angel of Liberty, which commemorates those who died in the revolutions of 1830 and 1848. Looming behind it is the Opéra Bastille, once the largest opera house in the world, which opened on the bicentennial of the Revolution in 1989.

Marché d’Aligre

Set around an old guardhouse and clocktower, the wonderful Aligre market is a melting pot of Parisians from all walks of life. It dates back to 1643 and was once as important as the more famous Les Halles (see Forum des Halles). In the gourmet covered market you’ll see everything from rows of pheasants to a whole wild boar hanging from the stalls. North African traders give the outdoor produce market an ethnic flare. The flea market dates back to the days when nuns distributed second-hand clothing to the poor (see Aligre Market).

• pl d’Aligre

• Open am daily

The Passages

The Bastille has been a quarter of working-class artisans and craft guilds since the 17th century and many furniture makers are still located in these small alleyways, called passages. The rue du Faubourg-St-Antoine is lined with shops displaying a striking array of both traditional period furniture and modern designs, but don’t neglect to visit the narrow passages, such as the Passage de l’Homme, running off this and other streets in the Bastille. Many artists and craftspeople have their ateliers (workshops) in these atmospheric alleys.

Rue de Lappe

Once famous for its 1930s dance halls (bals musettes), rue de Lappe is still the Bastille’s after-dark hotspot. This short, narrow street is filled with bars, clubs, restaurants and cafés, and positively throbs with music. Crowds of hip night-owls trawl the cobblestones looking for action, and spill into the adjoining rue de la Roquette and rue de Charonne where there are even more trendy bars and restaurants.

Maison Européenne de la Photographie

This excellent gallery showcasing contemporary European photography opened in 1996 in an early 18th-century mansion, Hôtel Hénault de Cantorbre. The restoration is a mix of historic features and modern spaces that show off its permanent collection and changing exhibitions, including multimedia works.

• 5–7 rue de Fourcy, 75004

• Open 11am–8pm Wed–Sun

• Admission charge (free Wed after 5pm &; for under 8s)

• www.mep-fr.org

Maison de Victor Hugo

French author Victor Hugo (1802–85) lived on the second floor of the Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée, the largest house on the place des Vosges, from 1832 to 1848. He wrote most of Les Misérables here and many other works. In 1903 the house became a museum of his life.

• 6 pl des Vosges, 75004

• Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun

• Closed public holidays

• Admission charge for exhibitions

• www.musee-hugo.paris.fr

Izraël

Also called the “World of Spices,” this is a treasure trove of the world’s best food and drink. Tiny but packed with meat, cheese, wine, rum, dates, honey, mustard… it has to be seen.

• 30 rue François-Miron, 75004

BHV

The Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville is an upmarket all-round shopper’s paradise at which you can track down everything from DIY products to stylish underwear.

• 52–64 rue de Rivoli, 75004

Antoine et Lili

Vibrant and eclectic clothes for women inspired by tzigane and Oriental styles using colourful natural fabrics.

• 51 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 75004

Autour du Monde

Stylish clothes and objects for the home from French designer Bensimon. The canvas sneakers in pastel colours for kids and adults are a classic.

• 8, 12 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003

• 01 42 77 16 18

Florence Finkelsztajn

This shop offers a range of cakes with freshly baked rye bread and a deli.

• 24 rue des Ecouffes, 75004

Buzz

For the ultimate in contemporary Parisian interior design, this trendy boutique is an unmissable delight.

• 8 rue Trésor, 75004

Isabel Marant

A designer better known to Parisians than overseas, her work is hip but elegant.

• 16 rue de Charonne, 75011

Aladine

Fabulous displays of old kitchenware, boxes, jars, ashtrays… anything with a colourful old advertisement on it, from the 1960s back to whatever the owner can get her hands on.

• 12 rue Trousseau, 75011

L’Atelier Boulanger du Marais

Along with the traditional products on offer here are more unusual flavours such as a raisin rye bread.

• 32 rue de Turenne, 75003

Emery & Cie

Stylish, coloured ceramics, tiles, lamps and other goods, run by an interior decorator.

• 18 passage de la Main d’Or, 75011

The Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore

An English-language bookshop where you can pick up that translated French classic you may have been inspired to read.

• 22 rue St-Paul, 75004

André Bissonnet

A delightful hidden treasure is this shop/workshop where the owner lovingly restores antique musical instruments such as trumpets, harps and violins.

• 6 rue du Pas-de-la-Mule, 75003

La Chaiserie du Faubourg

Bastille has always been the area for furniture makers, and this chair repair shop keeps the tradition alive.

• 26 rue de Charonne, 75011

Pasta Linea

Visit for fresh pasta dishes made in-house from organic Italian flour. Not much seating, but the leafy Place des Vosges is nearby.

• 9 rue de Turenne, 75004

The Filofax Centre

The name says it all, for the ubiquitous binder that palmtop organizers have not ousted completely.

• 32 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 75003

L’Art du Bureau

If your desk is your altar, you’ll find everything you could possibly need here, and it’s all in the most modern designs. In fact, this shop is worth visiting for the design aspects alone.

• 47 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 75004

Librairie l’Arbre à Lettres

Beautiful bookshop, though the content is on the serious side, concentrating on art, philosophy and politics.

• 56 rue du Faubourg-St-Antoine, 75012

A l’Olivier

For 150 years this shop has specialized in all kinds of oil, from the finest olive oil to massage oil.

• 23 rue de Rivoli, 75004

Papeterie Saint Sabin

Parisian stationery shops are a class apart, and here you will find stylish notebooks, pens, pads and other tasteful items.

• 16 rue St-Sabin, 75011

A la Petite Fabrique

This shop doesn’t just sell chocolate, you can watch it being made. More than 40 flavours and novelty chocolates in all shapes.

• 12 rue St-Sabin, 75011

Hôtel de Coulanges

This mansion boasts beautiful early 18th-century architecture, although the right wing dates from the early 1600s.

• 35 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 75004

• Open only for concerts

Hôtel Salé

Built in 1656–9 for Aubert de Fontenay, a salt-tax collector, this mansion was restored in 1986 to provide a home for the Musée Picasso.

Hôtel Guénégaud

Designed by the architect François Mansart in the mid-17th century, this splendid mansion houses a Hunting Museum.

• 60 rue des Archives, 75003

• Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun

• Admission charge

Hôtel de Beauvais

The young Mozart performed at this 17th-century mansion. Notice the balcony decorated with goats’ heads.

• 68 rue François-Miron, 75004

• Closed to the public

Hôtel de Béthune Sully

This 17th-century mansion was home to the Duc de Sully, chief minister to Henri IV. It now houses the French National Monuments administration.

• 62 rue St-Antoine, 75004

Hôtel de Sens

One of Paris’s few medieval mansions. Henri IV’s wife Marguerite de Valois lived here after their divorce. It is now home to a fine arts library.

• 1 rue Figuier, 75004

• Closed to the public

Hôtel de St-Aignan

The plain exterior hides an enormous mansion within. It is now the Museum of Jewish Art and History.

• 71 rue du Temple, 75003

• Open 11am– 6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm Sun

• Admission charge

• www.mahj.org

Hôtel de Soubise

Along with the adjacent Hôtel de Rohan, this 17th-century mansion houses the national archives.

• 60 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 75003

• Open 2–5:30pm Wed–Mon

Hôtel de Lamoignon

Built in 1584 for the daughter of Henri II.

• 24 rue Pavée, 75004

• Closed to the public

Hôtel de Marle

This 16th-century mansion houses the Swedish Cultural Centre and café.

• 11 rue Payenne, 75003

• Open 10am–1pm, 2–6pm Tue–Fri (9pm Tue)

• Admission charge

Galerie Marian Goodman

Housed in a 17th-century mansion, this gallery is a slice of New York. Artists on show include Jeff Wall and video-maker Steve McQueen.

• 79 rue du Temple, 75003

• Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sat

Galerie Akié Aricchi

Eclectic exhibitions covering photography, sculpture and paint, often with an Asian influence.

• 26 rue Keller, 75011

• Open 3–7pm Tue–Sat

Galerie Alain Gutharc

Alain Gutharc devotes his space to the work of young, contemporary artists in paint, photography, sculpture or mixed media.

• 7 rue St Claude, 75003

• Open 2–7pm Tue–Fri, 11am–1pm & 2–7pm Sat

Galerie Daniel Templon

A favourite among the French contemporary art establishment, exhibiting big, international names as well as talented newcomers.

• 30 rue Beaubourg, 75003

• Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat

Galerie Karsten Greve

A leading international gallery with top names in Modern and contemporary art and photography.

• 5 rue Debelleyme, 75003

• Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sat

Galerie Patrick Seguin

This gallery features stylish 20th-century furniture and architecture, by artists such as Le Corbusier and Prouvé.

• 5 rue des Taillandiers, 75011

• Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat

Galerie Lavignes-Bastille

Narrative figuration, Op Art and new artists are featured here.

• 27 rue de Charonne, 75011

• Open 2–7pm Tue–Sat

Galerie Liliane et Michel Durand-Dessert

Housed in a former factory, the gallery concentrates on contemporary art.

• 28 rue de Lappe, 75011

• Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sat

Galerie Yvon Lambert

Changing exhibits cover contemporary art, photography and installations.

• 108 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003

• Open 10am–1pm, 2:30–7pm Tue–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat

• www.yvon-lambert.com

Galerie Nikki Diana Marquardt

A gallery of politically motivated artworks executed in all types of art media.

• 9 pl des Vosges, 75004

• Open 1–6pm Mon–Fri

• http://galerienikkidianamarquardt.com

Zéro Zéro

It doesn’t get much cooler than this den-like bar with wood panelling and flowered wallpaper. Though not listed on the menu, cocktails are a speciality.

• 89 rue Amelot, 75011

Andy Wahloo

Located in one of Henri IV’s former mansions, pop art and Oriental decor form a backdrop for some of the city’s most fashionable soirées.

• 69 rue des Gravilliers, 75003

Barrio Latino

Vast Cuban-themed club on three floors – tapas, restaurant and great music.

• 46–8 rue du Faubourg-St-Antoine, 75012

Bataclan

This venerable concert hall attracts international artists as well as household French names. The adjoining bar provides beer and meals.

• 50 boulevard Voltaire, 75011

Pop In

A shabby-chic bar cum nightclub with cheap drinks, friendly staff, a cool crowd and funky DJs. It is open on Sundays.

• 105 rue Amelot, 75011

Café de l’Industrie

This fashionable and sizeable café has three rooms where the walls are lined with paintings and old-fashioned artifacts. The food is cheap but pretty good, and the later it gets the better the buzz (see Le Café de l’Industrie).

• 16 rue St-Sabin, 75011

Le Clown Bar

As its name suggests, clown-related clutter fills this fashionable, arty hangout. The wine list is excellent and the staff knowledgeable.

• 114 rue Amelot, 75011

Le Fanfaron

This is a must for lovers of rare film music, the Rolling Stones and Iggy Pop, with hip tunes and the cheapest beer in Bastille.

• 6 rue de la Main d’Or, 75011

Le Square Trousseau

This bistro was one of the first media watering holes when the Bastille became chic a few years ago.

• 1 rue Antoine-Vollon, 75012

SanZSanS

Hip bar, club and restaurant open until the small hours.

• 49 rue du Faubourg-St-Antoine, 75011

L’Ambroisie

The finest service matching the finest of food. Renowned wine list, and the chocolate tart is out of this world. Reserve in advance.

• 9 pl des Vosges, 75004

• 01 42 78 51 45

• €€€€€

Gli Angeli

One of Paris’s best Italian restaurants. Their carpaccio is highly rated, as is the tiramisù.

• 5 rue St-Gilles, 75003

• 01 42 71 05 80

• No disabled access

• €€€

La Guirlande de Julie

Owned by Claude Terrail of the Tour d’Argent, this delightful restaurant offers haute cuisine at affordable prices.

• 25 pl des Vosges, 75003

• 01 48 87 94 07

• Closed Mon

• €€€

Au Vieux Chêne

Hidden down a side street, this atmospheric bistro is a treat. Expect updated French classics such as bacon-wrapped monkfish with white beans.

• 7 rue Dahomey, 75011

• 01 43 71 67 69

• Closed Sun, Aug

• €€€

La Gazzetta

Contemporary French dishes, such as venison, polenta, dried figs and dandelion leaves, in a relaxing neo-Art Deco setting.

• 29 rue de Cotte, 75012

• 01 43 47 47 05

• Open Tue–Sat, Sun L

• €€

Pitchi Poï

Traditional Yiddish home cooking and a famous Sunday brunch can be found in this delightful restaurant.

• 7 rue Caron, 75004

• 01 42 77 46 15

• €€

Le Baron Rouge

Cold meats and cheese platters are served in an authentic setting by the Aligre Market.

• 1 rue Théophile-Roussel, 75012

• 01 43 43 14 32

• Closed Mon

• €

Chez Paul

This old bistro has a fairly simple menu but it is always delicious. Book ahead.

• 13 rue de Charonne, 75011

• 01 47 00 34 57

• €€€

Unico

Set in a former butcher’s shop, this Argentinian restaurant mixes retro design with the best steaks in Paris.

• 15 rue Paul Bert, 75011

• 01 43 67 68 08

• €€€

L’As du Fallafel

Undoubtedly the best fallafel joint. The “special” with fried aubergine and spicy sauce is a must.

• 34 rue des Rosiers, 75004

• 01 48 87 63 60

• €€