Index

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A

Actors and actresses

adapting makeup to, 29–30

makeup design and role of, 27

makeup do’s and don’ts for, 257–258

Adhesives, for darker skin tones, 264

Aerial perspective, 8

Age, character analysis and, 21–23

Aging effects

character analysis and, 21–23

cheeks, 107–112

chin, 120

eyebrows, 103

face, 129, 394

hands, 122–125, 139–140, 145–146

jaw line, 117, 118

latex for, 139–140, 141–146

lighting and, 15

lips/mouth, 119–120

nasolabial folds, 7, 107–112

neck, 121–122, 170

stippling for, 140–141

teeth, 125–126

Airbrush cosmetics, 58

Ancient people

hairstyles of, 328–331

makeup used by, 320

Angels, 272

Animals, 272, 273, 274, 275

Apple cheeks, 112–113

Appliance makeup, 56–58

See also Prosthetics

Asian eyes, 96–97, 150–151

B

Backlight, 15

Bald caps, 170–172, 173

Beards

adapting, 223–224

covering, 55

crepe hair, 207–212

removing, 222–223

shadow, 213

stubble, 212–213

ventilated, 214–223

Best, Kate, 373–379

Birds, 272–273

Birth marks, concealing, 55, 391

Black eye, creating, 146

Blindness, 146, 149

Blocking out eyebrows

with plastic film, 101–103

with soap, 97, 100

with spirit gum, 100

with wax, 100–101

Blush

applying and selection of, 254

for darker skin tones, 263

Body paints, 48, 51

Books and videos, 310

Bridges, Beau, 394

Bronzers, 54

Bruises, creating, 149

Brush cleaners, 39

Brushes

stippling with, 74

types of, 48, 49–50, 54, 81

Bullet holes, creating, 394

Burns, creating, 149

C

Cake makeup, 52, 54, 58

Caps

bald, 170–172, 173

wig, 235–236

Casting for prosthetics, 161–168

Cast shadows, 8

Changes, quick, 30

Character analysis, 17–25

Character sketches and drawings, 27–29

Cheekbones

modeling in clay, 5

modeling using highlights and shadows, 105–109

structure of, 1, 2

Cheek color

See also Rouge

applying, 254, 257

bronzers, 54

for men, 257

for women, 254

Cheeks

See also Rouge

apple, 112–113

corrective makeup for, 67

modeling using highlights and shadows, 105–107

planes, 106–107

Chiaroscuro. See Light and shade

Chin

aging, 120

building up, 133

corrective makeup for, 61

modeling using highlights and shadows, 120

prosthetic, 170

Christensen, Gary, 381

Circles under eyes, concealing, 55, 254

Clay, modeling in, 2–5, 165

Clowns, 273, 275, 386–387

Cold-foam process, 190, 191

Color(s)

characteristics of, 10–12

light and, 13

mixing, 12

stippling to add, 76–77

Colored chalk, 32

Colored pencils, 32

Color wheel, 10, 11

Concealers, 55, 56, 254, 257, 263

Contouring, for darker skin tones, 263

Contrasts, stippling to reduce, 76

Cornmeal, wheat germ, or bran with latex and spirit gum, 143

Corrective makeup

cheeks, 67–69

eyebrows, 66–68

eyes, 61–66

facial analysis, 60

forehead, 60

foundations, 59–60

hair, 72

jaw line and chin, 61

lips, 69–71

neck, 71–72

nose, 60–61

teeth, 72

wrinkles, 61

Costume designers, 27

Cotton

latex, spirit gum and, 143, 144–146

under derma wax, 133, 136–137

Creme makeup

applying, 51, 53

foundation, 48, 51

mixing cake makeup with, 58

rouge, 51

Crepe hair, 103, 207–212

Crow’s feet, 90

Curved surfaces, 7

Cuts, creating, 149

D

Darker skin tones, makeup for, 259–268

Death, 273–274

Demons, 274, 276, 279

Derma wax, 133–137

Designing makeup

actor, role of, 27

adapting makeup to actor, 29–30

changes, making quick, 30

costume designer, role of, 27

makeup designer, 26–27

sketches and drawings, preliminary, 27–29

working drawings, 30–32, 33

worksheets, 32, 34–38

Devils, 274, 275, 276, 279

Dolls, 274–275

Drawings

adapting makeup to actor using, 29–30, 31

defined, 27

materials for, 27, 30

preliminary, 27–29

working, 30–32, 33

Dry makeup, 54

E

Ears

creating, 149–150

prosthetic, 170

Edges

hard, 7, 79

modeling, 78–79

soft, 7, 79

stippling to conceal, 77

Eighteenth century

hairstyles during the, 340–343

makeup used during the, 322–323

Elephant Man, 143, 144–145

Elizabeth I, creating the likeness of queen, 239–240, 387

Elves, 275

Environment, character analysis and, 18

Epicanthic fold, 96

Epstein, Alvin, 248, 249

Eyebrows

adding, 213

aging, 103

Asian, 97

blocking out, 97–103

character analysis and, 23–24

corrective makeup for, 66–67

crepe-hair, 103

grooming, 255

men’s, 66, 67, 68, 94

painted, 103

removing, 213

ventilated, 103

women’s, 66, 67, 255

Eye color, 54

Eyelashes

curling, 64, 66

false, 64–66, 67

mascara for, 63–64, 65

Eyelids

Asian, 96–97, 150–151

prosthetic, 169

sagging, 151–152, 169

Eyeliners

applying, 62–63, 255, 256

for men, 256

Eye pouches, 95–96, 166, 170

Eyes

accents, 62–63

Asian, 96–97, 150–151

black eye, creating, 146

character analysis and, 23, 24

circles under, concealing, 55, 254

corrective makeup for, 61–66

mascara, applying, 54

men’s, 68, 94

modeling in clay, 5

modeling using highlights and shadows, 90–97

planes, 90, 91

sagging, 151–152, 169

women’s, 65

wrinkles, 90

Eye shadow

applying, 54, 62, 63, 255

brush-on, 54

corrective makeup, 61–62

creme, 61

for darker skin tones, 264

Eye sockets, 2, 5

F

Face (facial features)

aging, 129

bones of, 1–2

casting for prosthetics, 161–168

direction of light and effects on, 15

eyes, 5

face, 1–2, 4

head, 2–5

modeling using highlights and shadows, 79–83

mouth, 5

nose, 4–5

planes of, 4, 84

reshaping, 126–128

Face powder

applying, 51–52, 53, 253–254, 256

for darker skin tones, 263

for men, 256

Facial analysis, 60

Facial hair. See Beards; Mustaches

Fairies, 275–276

Falk, Peter, 248, 249

False eyelashes, 64–66, 67

False teeth, 190–194

Fantasy characters, makeup for, 388–390

Fashions, historic

ancient people, 320, 328–331

eighteenth century, 322–323, 340–343

fifteenth century, 334–335

in hair, 327–371

in makeup, 320–326

Middle Ages, 320–321, 332–333

nineteenth century, 323–324, 344–346

seventeenth century, 321–322, 338–339

sixteenth century, 321, 336–337

twentieth century, 324–326, 347–371

Fifteenth century, hairstyles during the, 334–335

Fill light, 15

Film, natural makeup for, 252–258

Fingernails

aging, 125

fake, 152

Flat surfaces, 7

Foam gelatin, 190

Foam latex

closed molds, 175, 177

foaming latex, 177–180

making and attaching, 180–189, 395

painting, 189–190

Forehead

corrective makeup for, 60

frontal, 1, 2

modeling using highlights and shadows, 84–90

planes, 84–85

superciliary, 1, 2

wrinkles, 85–90, 170, 171

Foundations

cake, 52, 54

colors, selecting, 83

corrective, 59–60

creme, 48, 51

for darker skin tones, 261–263

highlights and shadows, 52

liquid, 48

for men, 256

for natural makeup, 253, 256

for television and film, 253

Freckles, stippling for, 74

Frontal eminence, 1, 2

G

Gelatin

examples of using, 394

foam, 190

three-dimensional modeling with, 139

wrap-around prosthetics, 196–200, 201

Ghosts, 276–277

Gnomes, 277, 278

Goblins, 277

Goodwin, 149

Grotesques, 277

H

Hadobas, Paul, 382

Hair

See also Beards; Mustaches; Wigs and hairpieces

coloring, 226

corrective makeup for, 72

crepe, 103, 207–212

cutting, 226

graying products, adding, 226–227

historic fashions, 327–371

restyling, 225–226

Hairlines

adding, 231–233

receding, 72

Hairpieces. See Wigs and hairpieces

Hands

aging, 122–125, 139–140, 145–146

fingernails, 125

modeling using highlights and shadows, 122–125

prosthetic, 172–174

Hard edges, 7, 79

Head

construction of, 2–3

modeling in clay, 3–4

Health

character analysis and, 20

hazards from makeup, 314–319

hygiene, makeup, 39, 41, 314–319

Heredity, character analysis and, 18

High-definition cameras, 252–253

High-definition makeup, 266

Highlights

cake makeup, 52, 54

colors for, 83–84

creating, 8

creme makeup and, 51

for darker skin tones, 263

Historic fashions. See Fashions, historic

Hoffman, Dustin, 180–188

Holbrook, Hal, 240–247

Hong, James, 394

Hue, defined, 10

Hygiene, makeup, 39, 41, 314–319

Hyperpigmentation, 265

I

Infra-temporal hollows, 2

Intensity, defined, 10

J

Jaw bones, 1, 2

Jaw line

aging, 117, 118

corrective makeup for, 61

modeling using highlights and shadows, 113–118

planes, 118

sagging jowls, 116–118

K

Keloids, 266

Key light, 15

L

Latex

See also Foam latex

aging effects with, 139–140, 141–146

base for crepe hair, 211–212

casts for prosthetic pieces, 16

cornmeal, wheat germ, or bran with spirit gum and, 143

cotton, spirit gum and, 143, 144–146

over derma wax, 133, 137

spirit gum, tissue, and, 142–143

three-dimensional modeling with, 139–140

and tissue, 141–142

Light and shade

flat and curved surfaces, 7

hard and soft edges, 7

highlights and shadows, 8–9

principles of, 6–7

Lighting

color and, 13

for darker skin tones, 264–265

direction of, and effects on facial features, 15

in makeup rooms, 41, 43, 44

pigment and, 13–15

Likenesses, creating, 238–250

Lip color

applying, 55, 71, 256

for darker skin tones, 264

for men, 257

types of, 55

for women, 256

Lip pencil, 55

Lips

aging, 119–120

color, selecting, 118

corrective makeup for, 69–71

men’s, 70, 120

reshaping, 71, 119

size of, 118

texture of, 119

women’s, 70

Liquid makeup, 48

Little Big Man, Dustin Hoffman character, 180–188

Long face, 126

Loose face powder, 51, 52

Lowlight, 8

M

Mad Hatter, 248–250

Makeup artists, 26, 257–258

Makeup charts, 35, 37

Makeup department, 257

Makeup designer, responsibilities of, 26–27

Makeup equipment

kits, 39–41, 258

palettes, 41, 42

Makeup kits

basic contents of, 266–268, 311–313

defined, 39

group, 39–41

individual, 39, 40, 258

Makeup materials

hazards from, 314–319

list of, 281–303

sources of, 304–310

Makeup morgue, 45–46

Makeup room, 41, 43–44

Makeup schools, 309–310

Makeup workshop, 44–45

Mandible, 1, 2

Mascara

applying, 54, 63–64, 65, 255–256

removing, 64

types of, 54

Maxilla, 1, 2

Men

cheek color for, 257

concealer for, 257

eyebrows, 66, 67, 68, 94

eyeliner for, 256

eyes, 68, 94

face powder for, 256

foundations for, 256

lips/lip color for, 70, 120, 257

natural makeup for, 256–257

noses, 134–135

skin texture and wrinkles, 147, 148

Middle age, character analysis and, 22–23

Middle Ages

hairstyles during the, 332–333

makeup used during the, 320–321

Modeling

See also Three-dimensional makeup

in clay, 2–5

Molds

casting for prosthetics, 161–168

wrap-around/sculpting prosthetics, 194–200, 201

Moles, creating, 152–154

Monsters, 277, 382, 392–393

Mouth

aging, 120

character analysis and, 24, 25

modeling in clay, 5

modeling using highlights and shadows, 118–120

Mungle, Matthew W., 202, 392

Musicals, makeup for, 373–374

Mustaches

crepe hair, 207–212

removing, 222–223

ventilated, 214–223

N

Nasal bone, 1–2

Nasolabial folds, 7, 107–112

Natural makeup

foundation, selecting, 253

makeup artist, working with, 257–258

for men, 256–257

for television and film, 252–258

for women, 253–256

Neck

aging, 121–122, 170

corrective makeup for, 71–72

modeling using highlights and shadows, 79–83, 121–122

Neutralizers, 55, 56, 263

Nineteenth century

hairstyles during the, 344–346

makeup used during the, 323–324

Nonrealistic styles

characters, 272–280, 382, 396

relating makeup to audience, 269–271

stylization, 269

Noses

building up, 131–135

character analysis and, 24

corrective makeup for, 60–61

men’s, 134–135

modeling in clay, 4–5

modeling using highlights and shadows, 103–105

planes, 103–105

prosthetic, 167, 168–169, 176–177, 191

putty, 131–133

women’s, 134–135

O

Ogres, 277

Old age

See also Aging effects

character analysis and, 23

Orbital hollows, 2

Oval face, 126

P

Painted eyebrows, 103

Painting method, latex cast, 168

Palettes, makeup, 41, 42

Pan, 277

PAX paint, 58, 189–190

Performers, makeup do’s and don’ts for, 257–258

Perspiration, 154

Photographs

adapting makeup to actor using, 29–30, 31

in makeup morgue, 45

Physiognomy, 23–25

Pierrot/Pierrette, 277

Pigment

color in, 10–12

lighting and effects on, 13–15

Pimples, creating, 154

Planes

cheeks, 106–107

eyes, 90, 91

face, 4, 84

forehead, 84–85

jaw line, 118

nose, 103–105

Plaster casts, 164–168

Plastic film

blocking out eyebrows with, 101–103

liquid, 140

Polyurethane foam, 190, 191

Pressed face powder, 51

Primary colors, 12

Prosthetics

application of, 174–175

bald caps, 170–172, 173

casting for, 161–168

chins, 170

cold-foam process, 190, 191

ears, 170

eyelids, 169

eye pouches, 166, 170

foam gelatin, 190

foam latex, 175, 177–190

forehead, wrinkled, 170, 171

gelatin wrap-around, 196–200, 201

hands, 172–174

necks, 170

negative mold making, 195–196

noses, 167, 168–169, 176–177, 191

sculpting, 194–195

silicone foam, 190

silicones, 200, 202–206

teeth, 190–194

transfer, 379–380

wrap-around, 194, 196–200, 201

Pseudofolliculitis, 265–266

Putty

nose, 131–133

silicone, 138

wax, 137–138

Q

Quick changes, 30

R

Race, character analysis and, 18

Removing

beards and mustaches, 222–223

beard stubble, 213

body paints, 48, 51

crepe hair, 211, 212

derma wax, 137

eyebrows, 213

latex prosthetics, 175

mascara, 64

nose putty, 133

putty-wax, 138

wigs, 237

Rivera, Chita, 374

Rouge

colors for, 68

creme, 51, 68

dry, applying, 54, 68

placement of, 68–69

Round face, 126–127

Rubber-mask greasepaint (RMGP), 56–57, 189

S

Safety issues, 314–319

Sagging eyelids, 151–152, 169

Sagging jowls, 116–118

Satyr, 382

Scabs, creating, 154

Scars

concealing, 55

creating, 154–157, 158–159

Schools, 309–310

Sculpting, 194–195

Secondary colors, 12

Seventeenth century

hairstyles during the, 338–339

makeup used during the, 321–322

Shade. See Light and shade

Shades, defined, 11

Shadows

See also Eye shadow

beard, 213

cake makeup, 52, 54

colors for, 84

creating, 8–9

creme makeup and, 51

dry rouge and, 54

Silicone foam, 190

Silicone putty, 138

Silicones, 200, 202–206, 394

Sixteenth century

hairstyles during the, 336–337

makeup used during the, 321

Sketches

defined, 27

materials for, 27, 30

preliminary, 27–29

Skin conditions, 265–266, 315–316

Skin texture and wrinkles, 147, 148

Skin tones, makeup for darker, 259–268

Skin types, 265

Slush method, latex cast, 168

Smith, Dick, 140, 179–188, 189, 395

Soap, blocking out eyebrows with, 97, 100

Soft edges, 7, 79

Spacek, Sissy, 394

Spirit gum

blocking out eyebrows with, 100

cornmeal, wheat germ, or bran with latex and, 143

latex, cotton, and, 143, 144–146

tissue, latex and, 142–143

Sponge applicators, 48

Sponges, stippling with, 73–74

Square face, 126

Stalin, Peter Falk as, 248, 249

Statuary, 278

Stippling

to add color, 76–77

for aging, 140–141

with brushes, 74

to conceal edges, 77

defined, 73

modeling using highlights and shadows, 83

prosthetics, 175

to reduce contrasts, 76

with sponges, 73–74

for texture, 74–76

Stubble, bread, 212–213

Stylization, 269

Superciliary arch, 1, 2

T

Tattoos

applying, 55–56, 57

concealing, 55, 391

Tears, 154

Teeth

aging, 125–126

corrective makeup for, 72

prosthetic/false, 190–194

Television, natural makeup for, 252–258

Temperament, character analysis and, 19–20

Temples, 2

Texture

lip, 119

stippling for, 74–76

Theater productions, makeup for, 375–378, 381, 383–385

Three-dimensional makeup

black eye, 146

blindness, 146, 149

bruises, 149

burns, 149

cornmeal, wheat germ, or bran with latex and spirit gum, 143

cuts, 149

derma wax, 133–137

ears, 149–150

eyelids, Asian, 150–151

eyelids, sagging, 151–152

fingernails, 152

gelatin, 139

latex, 139–140

latex, cotton, and spirit gum, 143, 144–146

latex and tissue, 141–142

moles, 152–154

nose putty, 131–133

perspiration and tears, 154

pimples, 154

plastic film, 140

putty-wax, 137–138

scabs, 154

scars, 154–157, 158–159

silicone putty, 138

spirit gum, tissue, and latex, 142–143

stippling for aging, 140–141

warts, 157

welts, 157

wens, 157

wounds, open, 157, 160

wrinkles, 147, 148

Tinsley, Christien, 379–380

Tints, 11

Tissue

latex and, 141–142

spirit gum, latex and, 142–143

Tones, 10

Toys, 278

Trolls, 278–279

Trotsky, Alvin Epstein as, 248, 249

Twain, Hal Holbrook as, 240–247

Twentieth century

hairstyles during the, 347–371

makeup used during the, 324–326

U

Undertones, 260–261

V

Value, defined, 10–12

Vampires, 279

Ventilated pieces, 103, 214–223

Vitiligo, 266

W

Warts, creating, 157

Water colors, 32

Wax

blocking out eyebrows with, 100–101

derma, 133–137

putty, 137–138

Websites, list of makeup, 268

Wens, 157

Wide face, 126

Wig cap, 235–236

Wigs and hairpieces, 72, 394

cleaning, 231

falls and chignons, 230–231

hairlines, adding, 231–233

measuring for, 229–230

parts of, 227

putting on and securing, 233–237

removing, 237

resources for, 308–309

styling, 230

Williams, Vanessa, 373

Witches, 279–280, 382

Women

eyebrows, 66, 67, 255

eyes, 65

lips and lip color, 70, 256

natural makeup for, 253–256

noses, 134–135

skin texture and wrinkles, 147, 148

Working drawings, 30–32, 33

Worksheets, 32, 34–38

Wounds, creating open, 157, 160

Wrap-around prosthetics, 194, 196–200, 201

Wrinkles

corrective makeup for, 61

creating, 147, 148

eyes, 90

forehead, 85–90, 170, 171

Y

Youth, character analysis and, 21–22

Z

Zombies, 279, 382

Zygomatic arch. See Cheekbones