OULU AND VAALA, FINLAND
Interesting species can be seen in the middle of Finland.
The region and city of Oulu in central Finland borders the northeast shore of the Gulf of Bothnia, and it’s a meeting point of two different avifaunas: the birds of the shallow shores of the Baltic Sea and those of the northern coniferous zone. Open fields in flat landscapes are distinctive to this coastal area, where snow melts earlier than in the surrounding areas during spring. The open patches revealed by the spring sun draw geese, cranes, and swans. Graylag Geese breed in the area and are easiest to photograph in early April, just as they arrive but before they start breeding. Many other geese in the area are in transit, such as Bean, Pink-footed, Greater White-fronted, and the endangered Lesser White-fronted Geese.
In the beginning of May, many waterbird and wader species are busy feeding on the shores in the region, and the large network of surrounding bogs is rich in bird life. Most of the bogs have Black Grouse leks, with the males fighting for supremacy in spring, and cranes nest in these bogs.
The larger Oulu area has a wide range of habitats for birds: shore meadows, reed beds, fallow fields, logging clearances, and moist forest floors. There aren’t many old forests in the Oulu area, but there is variation that forms an interesting mosaic of habitats that also benefit vole populations, which bring owls to the forests on the northeastern coasts of the Gulf of Bothnia. The Great Gray Owl, for example, breeds yearly in the area between Pyhäjoki and Kemi. Other breeding owl species include the Eurasian Pygmy, Boreal, Short-eared, Long-eared, Ural, and Eagle. In peak vole years, there’s even the Hawk Owl.
Each of the four European harriers breeds in Oulu—the Western Marsh and Northern Harriers every year, and the rarer Pallid and Montagu’s Harriers infrequently. In winter you can photograph Gray Partridges, and in some years even Snowy Owls, on the fallow fields in the Oulu region.
Oulu is also known for Liminganlahti (Liminka Bay), Finland’s most valuable wetland. It’s a large and shallow bay in the Gulf of Bothnia. The shores are rough and difficult to access for a bird photographer, and the best birding sites are nearly impossible from a photographer’s perspective. Luckily there are a couple of good spots where a photographer can target some of the areas specialties from a blind.
The Oulu area offers the best opportunities in Finland for photographing the Pink-footed Goose (Anser brachyrhynchus)
Canon EOS-1D Mark II, 500mm f/4.0, 1/500 second, f/9.0, ISO 200, continuous focus with 45 focusing points, Manfrotto 501 video head attached to the blind’s equipment plank. Liminka, Finland, April 2005.
Great Gray Owl in the summer (Strix nebulosa)
Canon EOS-1D Mark III, 16–35mm f/2.8, 1/3200 second, 16mm, f/4.0, ISO 2500, continuous focus with an extended central focusing point, handheld camera. Siikajoki, Finland, July 2008.
When the vole populations are high in the greater Oulu area, the numbers of breeding Northern Harriers increase (Circus cyaneus)
Canon EOS-1D Mark II, 300mm f/2.8, 1/2000 second, f/4.0, ISO 320, continuous focus with 45 focusing points, handheld camera. Liminka, Finland, July 2005.
The Black-tailed Godwit is a local specialty that is best photographed in June, when the precocial chicks are moving about and the parents guide them with alarm calls, at times right by the road. The best fields with Black-tailed Godwits are along the Selkämaantie road leading from Liminka to Oulunsalo. I took the image of the parent sounding alarm calls from a barn roof using my car as a blind. Unfortunately, the barn is long gone, so this shot would be hard to reproduce. Barns are part of a vanishing culture.
Ruffs have been noticeably declining in Finland in recent years, but Liminganlahti still has a few Ruff leks where it’s possible to capture the fancy males in the heat of their flamboyant tournaments. While photographing at a Ruff lek in May 2010, I caught this image of a male that just received a blow to the corner of its eye and is bleeding. It had been fighting with another male over the females’ attention.
The only breeding Black-tailed Godwits are in the Liminganlahti area (Limosa limosa)
Canon EOS-1D Mark II, 500mm f/4.0 plus 2x extender, 1/500 second, f/8.0, ISO 400, one-shot focus with a central focusing point, beanbag, car as a blind. Liminka, Finland, June 2005.
A Ruff with battle wounds (Philomachus pugnax)
Nikon D3S, 500mm f/4.0 plus 1.4x extender, 1/1000 second, f/7.1, ISO 3200, continuous focus with 51 focusing points, ground pod, Manfrotto 501 video head, tent blind. Oulunsalo, Finland, May 2010.
There are lots of waders to photograph on the shallow shores of sand and mud along Siikajoki and on Hailuoto Island, especially during autumn migration from July to September. The water level and the weather conditions have an impact on the occurrence of waders. The conditions are ideal when the water is low enough to expose the mud and silt for food, and when it is still high enough so the exposed area is not too large, because this would let the birds scatter over a wide area. The narrow stretch of shore helps photographers keep the birds close. The best weather conditions are unsettled because high pressure keeps the birds flying high and fast over the staging areas, whereas low pressure forces them to land and spend time feeding. Summer thunderstorms tend to bring birds to the ground, too. And while you’re out there photographing the waders, you’re likely to also photograph Common Shelducks feeding or Little Terns landing for some rest in front of your blind.
An Osprey with a catch (Pandion haliaetus)
Canon EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm f/4.0, 1/1000 second, f/4.0, ISO 1600, Gitzo tripod, Manfrotto 501 video head, blind. Vaala, Finland, June 2008.
The shallow shores around the Oulu area are good for wader photography. Dunlins in rain (Calidris alpina alpina).
Canon EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm f/4.0 plus 1.4x extender, 1/500 second, f/13.0, ISO 800, continuous focus with an extended central focusing point, ground pod, Manfrotto 501 video head. Siikajoki, Finland, July 2007.
The Dunlin image was taken during a heavy thunderstorm on the shore of the river Siikajoki. It’s not smart or advisable to wander around waders’ breeding grounds in May and June! You might inadvertently disturb an endangered species’ breeding time, such as Temminck’s Stints, Dunlins, or Little Terns.
One of Europe’s best winter feeding sites for the Golden Eagle is in Utajärvi between Oulu and Vaala. On good days it’s possible to see 10 Golden Eagles at the feeding station, plus a couple of White-tailed Eagles; in some years there has even been a Gyrfalcon. What’s special about the location is that you can photograph the eagles at their level. Out in front of the blinds is a mound where the eagles land to eat, providing great opportunities for taking flight shots. And when there is more than one eagle, it’s likely that they will get into fights over whose turn it is on the carcass. The place has yielded many good eagle images over the years.
The typical scenery in the Vaala area is barren, lichenous pine heath forests and lakes with crystal-clear water. In April and May the forests echo with display rituals of Eurasian Capercaillies, and the lakes carry the Arctic Loon’s hauntingly beautiful call far and wide. With the aid of a knowledgeable local guide it’s possible to photograph the latter, especially in June or July. Vaala also has beautiful bogs with birds such as the Red-throated Loon, which nests in the small bog pools. It can be photographed from a blind in June and July as the parents are busy feeding the young with fish that they catch from bigger lakes nearby. Vaala also offers good chances with Osprey and common species in the pine forests, such as Mistle Thrush, Redstart, and Common Cuckoo.
Arctic Loons breed on the clear lakes in the Vaala region (Gavia arctica)
Canon EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm f/4.0 plus 1.4x extender, 1/1000 second, f/13.0, ISO 800, continuous focus with an extended central focusing point, Gitzo tripod, Manfrotto 501 video head. Vaala, Finland, July 2009.
A Red-throated Loon parent feeding its chick (Gavia stellata)
Canon EOS-1D Mark II N, 500mm f/4.0, 1/2000 second, f/8.0, ISO 500, continuous focus with an extended central focusing point, Manfrotto 501 video head, blind. Vaala, Finland, July 2006.
Oulu Airport is the second busiest airport in Finland, making it easy to get into Oulu. Fast trains also go to Oulu many times a day. From Oulu to Vaala is about an hour’s drive. The area has a wide range of accommodations, blinds for rent, and bird guide services. The newly extended Liminganlahti Visitor Centre organizes birding courses and the annual Liminganlahti Bird Photography Festival in April.