LAKE KERKINI, GREECE
Lake Kerkini is the best place in the world to photograph Dalmatian Pelicans.
Lake Kerkini is in north Greece close to the Bulgarian border. It’s a 110 km² (42.5 mi²) reservoir that was formed in 1932 on a large flood plain of the River Strymon when the river was dammed. The river brings in silt that has created a large delta on the lake. The regulated water level varies about 5 m (16.4 ft) in a year; the highest level is in summer and the lowest level is at the end of autumn. When the water is low, the alluvial deposits are exposed and attract the migrating birds to land for rest, and some birds winter there. Fish-eating birds find a lot of food in the shallow waters.
Lake Kerkini is one of Greece’s most valuable wetlands. Many endangered or rare European species breed there. More than 300 species have been observed on the lake and in the neighboring areas, with more than 140 of them breeding in the area. Nesting platforms have been built for Dalmatian Pelicans, and now this endangered species belongs to the area’s breeding avifauna.
A big colony of Great and Pygmy Cormorants, Egrets (Great, Little, and Eurasian Spoonbill), Herons (Gray, Black-crowned Night, Squacco, and Purple), and Glossy Ibis breed on the River Strymon delta. Boat trips to the area are great in the winter because that’s when it’s easy to photograph Great Cormorants and Gray Herons in their breeding plumages, and you can sometimes see Spotted Eagles as they circle in the sky. The Dalmatian Pelicans’ nesting platforms are near the river delta, and the birds start to claim their nests already in February. They must not be approached because disturbance can cause the pelicans to abandon their nests.
Up to 130 species can be seen on the lake and the neighboring areas in winter; the number of birds wintering on Lake Kerkini is huge. The lake is also one of the main wintering locations in Europe for the endangered Lesser White-fronted Geese.
In winter the lake’s southern part gathers Dalmatian Pelicans, gulls, Great Cormorants, Pygmy Cormorants, and grebes as they follow the fishing boats in hopes of catching some food. The easiest place for observing them is in the village harbor in Lithotopos and near the fishing huts close to the village. The pelicans can be photographed at close range when the fishermen bring fish onto the shore; the pelicans follow the fishing boats on the lake like a pack of dogs. The fishermen don’t mind giving a share of their catch to the pelicans, but you can also buy some of the fish and feed it to the pelicans—more food for the birds and better photo opportunities for the photographer. I’ve been on Lake Kerkini several times over the years, and January and February are good for photographing the Dalmatian Pelicans.
A Dalmatian Pelican (Pelecanus crispus)
Canon EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm f/4.0, 1/500 second, f/9.0, ISO 800, manual focus, Gitzo tripod, Manfrotto 501 video head. Lake Kerkini, Greece, January 2009.
Dalmatian Pelicans, from young to old (Pelecanus crispus)
Canon EOS-1D Mark II, 500mm f/4.0 plus 1.4x extender, 1/1000 second, f/14.0, ISO 200, continuous focus with 45 focusing points, Gitzo tripod, Manfrotto 501 video head. Lake Kerkini, Greece, January 2005.
Dalmatian Pelicans posing (Pelecanus crispus)
Nikon D3S, 500mm f/4.0 plus 1.7x extender, 1/2000 second, f/14.0, ISO 1600, continuous focus with 51 focusing points, Gitzo tripod, Manfrotto 501 video head. Lake Kerkini, Greece, January 2010.
Lake Kerkini is quite easy to get to. The nearest airport is in Thessaloniki, where you can rent a car. It takes about two hours to drive to the lake. The Kerkini Wetland Information Centre, where you can see an exhibit about the lake and get brochures with more information, is in the Kerkini village on the western shore and is open in the morning.
There are accommodations and places to eat everywhere. I’ve stayed in the Oikoperiigitis hotel in Kerkini village (www.kerkinihotel.com) and the Erodios hotel in Lithotopos village (www.hotelerodios.com). Erodios is closer to the best pelican areas, whereas the Oikoperiigitis is closer to the River Strymon delta. You can book boat trips on the river at the hotel, and a local guide named Dimitris Vavylis is a good contact when negotiating with the fishermen; he can also help organize a photo trip in the area. You can find out more about Dimitris on his website (www.wildmoments.gr).
Dalmatian Pelicans reaching for fish and splashing water on my lens (Pelecanus crispus)
Nikon D3S, 24–70mm f/2.8, 1/2000 second, 24mm, f/11.0, ISO 1600, continuous focus with 51 focusing points, ground pod, Manfrotto 501 video head. Lake Kerkini, Greece, January 2010.