1. Combine the baking soda, cornstarch, and Epsom salt in a large bowl (fig. 1).

Fig. 1: Mix the dry ingredients except citric acid.

2. Combine the coconut oil, essential oil, water, and food coloring, if using, in a small dish and stir (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Mix the wet ingredients.

3. Using gloved hands, add the wet ingredients to the dry and combine with your fingers (fig. 3).

Fig. 3: Combine the wet and dry ingredients.

4. Add the citric acid to the mixture and work it patiently until it comes together like wet sand (fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Add the citric acid.

5. Mound the mixture into the two halves of the bath bomb mold (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Pack the molds.

6. Squeeze the two sides of the mold together to form a ball (fig. 6). Press out the excess and brush it away with your fingers. Set aside for a minute or two.

Fig. 6: Assemble the molds.

7. Carefully remove the top part of the mold (fig. 7). Flip the bottom gently into your hand and set the bath bomb on parchment paper to dry for about 48 hours. Wrap in tissue for gift giving, or take a bomb for a spin in the tub!

Fig. 7: Release the molded bath bombs.

2. Add the white sugar to the bowl with the oil (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Add the white sugar.

3. Add the raw sugar to the bowl. This sugar adds a bit more scrubbing power because of the larger granules. It’s great for hands and heels. If you want to use your scrub on your face only or have sensitive skin, you can skip the coarse sugar and use an extra 1/4 cup (50 g) white sugar (fig.3).

Fig. 3: Add the coarse raw sugar.

4. Add 8 to 10 drops of essential oil to the bowl and mix thoroughly (fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Add essential oil for aromatherapy (optional).

5. Scoop your scrub into jars or any airtight container to store (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Portion into airtight jars.

1. Knot some string around a sharpened pencil, which will serve as the anchor for your compass (fig. 1).

Fig. 1: Tie a string around a pencil.

2. Snip your string to about half the width of the yoga mat. Then tie the loose end to a washable marker (fig. 2). Choose a color similar to the yoga mat color so it isn’t too noticeable. Note: The amount of string that is used to tie on the marker will shorten the string a little. That’s perfect. You want the largest circle you draw to be an inch or two (a few centimeters) narrower than the mat.

Fig. 2: Tie the other end of the string to a marker.

3. Place the tip of the pencil exactly in the center of the yoga mat. You may need a helper to keep it steady as you extend the string and draw a circle with your homemade compass (fig. 3).

Fig. 3: Draw a circle.

4. Shorten the string about 3" (7.5 cm) and draw a circle, then shorten it again by 3" (7.5 cm) and draw another circle (fig. 4). You don’t need to be exact. The circle guides will just help your mandala stay symmetrical.

Fig. 4: Draw two smaller circles.

5. Paint a dot in the center. Then add slim petals like a daisy, filling the smallest circle (fig. 5). It’s easy to keep spacing consistent if you paint the first four petals like a cross, two vertical and two horizontal. Paint the next set of petals in the center of the remaining spaces, and so on.

Fig. 5: Paint the center flower.

6. Paint triangles using the middle circle guide. Think of a clock face and paint them at 12, 3, 6, and 9. Then add four more, centered in the spaces left behind. Finally, add petal/football shapes in a different color between the triangles (fig. 6).

Fig. 6: Paint the second row of designs.

7. Paint arches like a rainbow from triangle to triangle. Add three brushstrokes between the arches as shown (fig. 7). Then pick another color and paint another set of arches over those little brushstrokes. Finish with more little brushstrokes between the second set of arches.

Fig. 7: Paint the third row of designs.

8. Jazz up your design any way you like (fig. 8). Paint centers in the pink petals. Add dots in the second row. Use your creativity here!

Fig. 8: Add finishing touches.

9. Once the paint is fully dry, dampen a paper towel and wipe off the circle guides (fig. 9).

Fig. 9: Wipe off the marker guides.

2. Stir in the salt (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Add the salt.

3. Add the liquid soap and stir to combine (fig. 3).

Fig. 3: Add the liquid soap.

4. Add food coloring and stir gently so you don’t cause too many bubbles (fig. 4). You may choose to divide the mixture into smaller bowls so you can make multiple colors.

Fig. 4: Add the food coloring.

5. Pour the soap mixture into your silicone mold (fig. 5). If you don’t have a silicone mold, plastic cups can substitute. Any flexible container that will allow you to pop the soaps out is a good bet. If you use plastic cups, cut them down to about 1" (2.5 cm) tall to make removal easier. Pop the mold into the refrigerator for 2 hours or more to set. If you like, spritz some rubbing alcohol from a spray bottle to pop bubbles on the surface of the poured soap. It lowers the surface tension of the bubbles and makes them collapse!

Fig. 5: Pour the mixture into the mold.

6. Remove the soaps from the mold by pressing on the back of each form. Keep the soaps stored in the fridge in a covered dish when not in use. Enjoy (fig. 6)!

Fig. 6: Pop the soaps out of the mold and lather up.

2. Pour the cornstarch mixture into the empty water bottle (fig. 2). Work slowly and carefully. It can get messy!

Fig. 2: Pour the mixture into a plastic bottle.

3. Stretch the balloon collar onto the water bottle, flip it upside-down, and fill the balloon with the mixture by gently squeezing the bottle (fig. 3). One recipe is enough for about two stress balls. Don’t overfill!

Fig. 3: Fill the balloon with the mixture.

4. Pinch the balloon neck, then turn the bottle right-side up before removing the balloon (fig. 4). You don’t want any air in the balloon. Knot the balloon tightly against the contents.

Fig. 4: Remove the balloon from the bottle and tie a knot in the balloon.

5. Squish, squeeze, and scrunch your way to relaxation (fig. 5)!

Fig. 5: Squish and squeeze!

1. Trace around a pair of glasses or sunglasses to make a template on cardstock (fig. 1). Draw your outline 1/2" (1 cm) or more outside the perimeter of the glasses. Use scissors to cut out the cardstock template.

Fig. 1: Make your template.

2. Use dressmaker pins to secure the template to two layers of fleece. Use scissors to cut through both layers (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Pin the template and cut the fleece.

3. Use fabric glue to attach the two fleece layers together for a fluffy sleep mask that blocks more light than a single layer (fig. 3). You can stitch the two layers together if you prefer. Just keep stitching very close to the edge.

Fig. 3: Glue the layers.

4. Glue the pompom trim along the edge of the sleep mask (fig. 4). Be sure to press firmly so the trim is secure.

Fig. 4: Apply the pompom trim.

5. Snip some silly eyelashes from black felt and attach it to the mask with fabric glue (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Snip and glue the eyelashes.

6. Stitch one end of your elastic to the back left side of the sleep mask. Try it for size to mark a good length of elastic for your head. Snip the elastic to length and stitch the other end to the back right side of the mask (fig. 6).

Fig. 6: Attach the elastic band.

1. Draw a shape for your warmer on paper. Be sure the warmer will fit into your coat pocket. About 4" to 5" (10 to 13 cm) is usually a good size. Simple shapes work best for ease of stitching and filling. Cut out the pattern (fig. 1).

Fig. 1: Draw the pattern and cut it out.

2. Use dressmaker pins to tack the paper pattern to a double thickness of fabric. Use pinking shears or scissors to cut out the shapes. Repeat for a total of four fabric shapes for each set (fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Pin the pattern to the fabric. Cut the shapes.

3. Use a needle and thread or floss to make a running stitch around the perimeter of each pouch (fig. 3). Stop stitching when you get about 1" (2.5 cm) from the starting point.

Fig. 3: Stitch.

4. Make a little paper cone and secure it with tape. Cut off the tip for an easy funnel. Insert the funnel into the pouch and fill with uncooked rice (fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Fill the pouch.

5. Finish stitching the pouch closed and tie a knot (fig. 5). Snip the tails. Repeat all steps for the second pouch.

Fig. 5: Stitch and knot.

6. Microwave the warmers for about 30 seconds alongside a mug of water. Lessen the time if necessary, as heating times can vary with different microwaves. You want them warm, not hot. Ask an adult to help if necessary. Place the pouches in your coat pockets (fig. 6) and forget about frosty fingers this winter!

Fig. 6: Warm your pockets.

1. Choose an assortment of papers for your journal interior and cut them into 6" (15 cm) squares (fig. 1).

Fig. 1: Trim the interior papers.

2. Wrap watercolor paper around two cardboard squares and tape them to make the covers (fig. 2). If you prefer to collage or use acrylic paint directly on your covers, go for it! The outside should represent YOU! This example merely shows one option.

Fig. 2: Wrap the covers.

3. Paint a design on the covers (fig. 3). Make it personal. Abstract watercolor art is shown here, but your journal should represent you and what you like to draw and paint.

Fig. 3: Paint the covers.

4. Punch a hole in the middle/edge of one of the interior pages. Then punch two more holes on either side for a total of three holes per page (fig. 4). You can use the first punched page as a template as you work your way through punching all the others.

Fig. 4: Punch holes in the pages.

5. Align the covers and punch holes in those (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Punch holes in the covers.

6. Thread a wide ribbon through the top corner hole of both covers and all pages. Wrap a piece of tape around the ribbon end to aid in threading it through the stack. Tie a bow or nice knot. Thread twine through the remaining holes and double knot it before snipping. Leave these twine loops a bit loose so you can turn the pages easily (fig. 6).

Fig. 6: Tie a ribbon in the top corner. Tie the twine.

7. Add any touches you’d like to your cover art (fig. 7). Then, if desired, use black masking tape and a colored pencil to make a name label to finish.

Fig. 7: Add finishing touches and a name label.