Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis
Paris was born on the Ile de la Cité. The first settlers came to this island on the Seine in 300 BC (see Historical Events in Paris) and it has remained a focus of church and state power through the centuries, with the great cathedral of Notre-Dame and the law courts of the Palais de Justice commanding the island. This tiny land mass also has the honour of being the geographical heart of the city – all distances from Paris are measured from Point Zéro, just outside Notre-Dame. While the Ile de la Cité seems overrun with tourists, the smaller Ile St-Louis, connected to its neighbour by a footbridge, has a village-like feel and has been an exclusive residential enclave since the 17th century. Its main street is lined with shops, galleries and restaurants and is a wonderful place for a stroll.
The GuillotineDr Joseph Guillotine invented his “humane” beheading machine at his home near the Odéon and it was first used in April 1792. During the Revolution some 2,600 prisoners were executed on the places du Carrousel, de la Concorde, de la Bastille and de la Nation, after awaiting their fate in the Conciergerie prison. |
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Sights
Conciergerie
This imposing Gothic palace, built by Philippe le Bel (the Fair) in 1301–15, has a rich history. Parts of it were turned into a prison, controlled by the concierge, or keeper of the king’s mansion, hence the name. Ravaillac, assassin of Henri IV, was tortured here, but it was during the Revolution that the prison became a place of terror, when thousands were held here awaiting execution at the guillotine. Today you can see the Salle des Gardes and the magnificent vaulted Salle des Gens d’Armes (Hall of the Men-at Arms), the medieval kitchens, torture chamber, the Bonbec tower, and the prison. The cell where Marie-Antoinette was held and the history of other famous Revolution prisoners is on display. Outside, look for the square Tour de l’Horloge, erected in 1370, which houses the city’s first public clock, still ticking away.
2 blvd du Palais, 75001
Open Mar–Oct: 9:30am-6pm daily; Nov–Feb: 9am–5pm daily
Admission charge
Conciergerie
Marché aux Fleurs
One of the last remaining flower markets in the city centre, the beautiful Marché aux Fleurs is also the oldest, dating from the early 19th century. It is held year-round, Monday to Saturday, in place Louis-Lépine, filling the north side of the Ile de la Cité with dazzling blooms from 8am to 7pm. There is also a bird market here on Sundays (see Flower and Bird Markets).
Crypte Archéologique
Fascinating remnants of early Paris dating back to Gallo-Roman times were discovered in 1965 during an excavation of the square in front of Notre-Dame in order to build an underground car park. The archaeological crypt displays parts of 3rd-century Roman walls, rooms heated by hypocaust, as well as remains of medieval streets and foundations. The scale models showing the evolution of the city from its origins as a Celtic settlement are particularly interesting.
Place du Parvis-Notre-Dame, 75001
Open 10am–6pm Tue– Sun
Admission charge
Crypte Archéologique
Pont Neuf
An incongruous name (New Bridge) for the oldest surviving bridge in Paris. Following its completion in 1607, Henri IV christened it by charging across on his steed; the bronze equestrian statue of the king was melted down during the Revolution but replaced in 1818. Decorated with striking carved heads, the bridge was unique for its time in that it had no houses built upon it. It has 12 arches and a span of 275 m (912 ft) extending both sides of the island.
Pont Neuf and Square du Vert-Galant
Palais de Justice
Stretching across the west end of the Ile de la Cité from north to south, the Palais de Justice, along with the Conciergerie, was once part of the Palais de la Cité, seat of Roman rule and the home of the French kings until 1358. It took its present name during the Revolution and the buildings now contain the city’s law courts. You can watch the courts in session from Monday to Friday and wander through the public areas, with their many ornate features. The Cour du Mai (May Courtyard) is the area through which prisoners passed during the Revolution on their way to execution.
4 blvd du Palais, 75001
Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–6pm Sat
Free
Place Dauphine
In 1607 Henri IV transformed this former royal garden into a triangular square and named it after his son, the Dauphin and future King Louis XIII. Surrounding the square were uniformly built houses of brick and white stone; No. 14 is one of the few that retains its original features. One side was destroyed to make way for the expansion of the Palais de Justice. Today this quiet, charming spot is a good place to relax over a drink or meal (see La Rose de France).
St-Louis-en-l’Ile
This lovely Baroque church on Ile St-Louis was designed between 1664 and 1726 by the royal architect Louis Le Vau. The exterior features an iron clock (1741) at the entrance and an iron spire, while the interior, richly decorated with gilding and marble, has a statue of St Louis holding his Crusader’s sword.
19 bis rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004
Open 9am–noon, 2–7pm, Tue–Sun
Square du Vert-Galant
The tranquil western tip of the Ile de la Cité, with its verdant chestnut trees, lies beneath the Pont Neuf – take the steps behind Henri IV’s statue. This king had a notoriously amorous nature and the name of this peaceful square recalls his nickname, meaning “old flirt”. From here there is a wonderful view of the Louvre and the Right Bank. It is also the departure point for cruises on the Seine on Les Vedettes du Pont-Neuf (see Boat Tours).
A Day on the Islands
Morning
Arrive at Notre-Dame by 8am to beat the crowds and appreciate its magnificence, then head for the fragrant Marché aux Fleurs. As well as flowers, you can buy all kinds of garden accessories and seeds. Return to Notre-Dame if you want to ascend the towers, which open at 10am. Take a coffee break at Le Flore en l’Ile , with its views of the cathedral.
The fascinating Crypte Archéologique is worth a half-hour visit, then spend the late morning at Sainte-Chapelle , when the sun beams through the stained-glass windows.
There are plenty of places for lunch, but on a sunny day try La Rose de France with its terrace seating.
Afternoon
Spend a leisurely afternoon strolling the narrow streets of the Ile St-Louis, which are filled with characterful shops and galleries (see Shopping).
Wind up with an afternoon treat by visiting Berthillon, considered the best ice-cream purveyor in France (
31 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile
Open 10am–8pm Wed–Sun, closed mid-Jul-aug & school hols
Shopping
La Petite Scierie
This friendly, old-fashioned shop sells all types of foie gras and other duck preserves, straight from the farm.
60 rue St-Louis-en-I’lle, 75004
01 55 42 14 88
Closed Tue–Wed
Calixte
The place to stock up for a picnic or the day’s treats: superb croissants for the morning, pâtés and terrines and irresistible desserts for lunch.
64 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004
Clair de Rêve
An interesting boutique that sells curiosities such as puppets and miniature theatres. It is an ideal place if you’re looking for a present with a difference.
35 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004
Alain Carion
A wealth of meteorites, fossils and minerals. Some are made into imaginative jewellery.
92 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004
Pylones Boutique
Wild about rubber? That’s the magic material for the whimsical jewellery and accessories here, along with novelty gifts.
57 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004
Galerie Bamyan
A wonderful collection of ethnic goods including carvings, furniture, jewellery and other craft items from Central Asia.
24 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004
La Ferme Saint Aubin
Cheese in all shapes and sizes from all over France. An aromatic delight.
76 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004
Places to Eat
Isami
One of the best Japanese restaurants in the city, but tiny so book ahead. Good choice of sushi.
4 quai d’Orléans, 75004
01 40 46 06 97
Closed Sun, Mon, Aug (3 wks)
No disabled access
Le Fin Gourmet
Excellent bistro in a 17th-century building. Expect dishes such as scallops with shallots, or veal and baked apples. Bustling at lunchtime, candlelit and quieter in the evening.
42 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004
01 43 26 79 27
Closed Mon
No disabled access
Spring
American chef Daniel Rose offers a no-choice daily menu created with fresh ingredients from the market. Advance bookings are necessary.
6 rue Bailleul, 75001
01 45 96 05 72
La Charlotte de L’Isle
This tiny tea room with a witch-themed decor serves flavoured teas, rustic tarts and what is surely the most potent hot chocolate in town.
24 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004
01 43 54 25 83
Closed Mon–Wed, Aug
No disabled access
Brasserie de l’Ile St-Louis
Wooden tables and a rustic look complement hearty Alsace fare such as Tripe in Reisling wine.
55 quai de Bourbon, 75004
01 43 54 02 59
Closed Wed, Thu L, Aug
No disabled access
Mon Vieil Ami
A chic interior is the backdrop for dishes such as duck en croûte with foie gras.
69 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004
01 40 46 01 35
Closed Mon, Tue, Jan, Aug
No disabled access
Le Flore en l’Ile
Go for the views as well as the food in this tearoom, open from breakfast until 2am.
42 quai d’Orléans, 75004
01 43 29 88 27
No disabled access
Berthillon
There is always a queue outside this legendary ice cream shop, except in August when it closes.
31 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004
01 43 54 31 61
Closed Mon–Tue, Aug
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