Traditionally one of the most peaceful areas of Paris, the medicinal herb gardens which give the quarter its name were established here in 1626. It retained a rural atmosphere until the 19th century, when the city’s population expanded and the surrounding streets were built up. Near the gardens is the Arènes de Lutèce, a well-preserved Roman amphitheatre. The rue Mouffetard, winding down the hill from the bustling place de la Contrescarpe, dates from medieval times and has one of the best markets in the city. The area is also home to a sizeable Muslim community, focused on the Institut du Monde Arabe cultural centre and the Paris Mosque. In contrast to the striking Islamic architecture are the grey slab 1960s buildings of Paris University’s Jussieu Campus.
French North AfricaFrance has always had close connections with North Africa, though not always harmonious. Its annexation of Algeria in 1834 led to the long and bloody Algerian war of Liberation (1954–62). Relations with Tunisia, which it governed from 1883 to 1956, and Morocco, also granted independence in 1956, were better. Many North Africans now live in Paris. |
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Jardin des Plantes
The 17th-century royal medicinal herb garden was planted by Jean Hérouard and Guy de la Brosse, physicians to Louis XIII. Opened to the public in 1640, it flourished under the curatorship of Comte de Buffon. It contains some 10,000 species, including the first Cedar of Lebanon planted in a French tropical greenhouse, and Alpine, rose and winter gardens (see Jardine des Plantes Sights).
57 rue Cuvier, 75005
01 40 79 30 00
Open 8am–5:30pm daily, to 6pm summer
Jardin des Plantes
Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle
Separate pavilions in the Jardin des Plantes house exhibits on anatomy, fossils, geology, mineralogy and insects. The Grande Galerie de l’Evolution is a magnificent collection of stuffed African mammals, a giant whale skeleton and an endangered species exhibit (see Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle).
57 rue Cuvier, 75005
Pavilions: open 10am–5pm Wed–Mon; Evolution Gallery: open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon
Closed 1 May
Admission charge
Ménagerie
The country’s oldest public zoo was founded during the Revolution to house the four surviving animals from the royal menagerie at Versailles. Other animals were donated from circuses and abroad, but during the Siege of Paris in 1870–71 (see Liberation of Paris) the unfortunate creatures were eaten by hungry citizens. A favourite with children (see Children’s Attractions), the zoo has since been restocked.
Jardin des Plantes, 75005
Open 9am–5pm daily
Admission charge
Riding a stone hippopotamus at the Ménagerie
Institut du Monde Arabe
This institute was founded in 1980 to promote cultural relations between France and the Arab world. The stunning building (1987) designed by architect Jean Nouvel (see Musée du Quai Branly) features a southern wall of 1,600 photo-sensitive metal screens that open and close like camera apertures to regulate light entering the building. The design is based on the latticed wooden screens of Islamic architecture. Inside are seven floors of Islamic artworks, from 9th-century ceramics to contemporary art, and a fine restaurant.
1 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard, 75005
01 40 51 38 11
Open 10am– 6pm Tue–Sun
Admission charge
Institut du Monde Arabe
Mosquée de Paris
Built in 1922–6, the mosque complex is the spiritual centre for Parisian Muslims (see Mosquée de Paris). The beautiful Hispano-Moorish decoration, particularly the grand patio, was inspired by the Alhambra in Spain. The minaret soars nearly 33 m (100 ft). There is also an Islamic school, tea room and Turkish baths, open to men and women on separate days.
2 bis pl du Puits-de-l’Ermité, 75005
Tours: 9am– noon, 2– 6pm Sat–Thu
closed Islamic hols
Admission charge
Minaret, Mosquée de Paris
Rue Mouffetard
Although the rue Mouffetard is famous today for its lively street market held every Tuesday to Sunday, it has an equally colourful past. In Roman times this was the main road from Paris to Rome. Some say its name comes from the French word mouffette (skunk), as a reference to the odorous River Bièvre (now covered over) where waste was dumped by tanners and weavers from the nearby Gobelins tapestry factory. Though no longer poor or Bohemian, the neighbourhood still has lots of character, with its 17th-century mansard roofs, old-fashioned painted shop signs and affordable restaurants. In the market you can buy everything from Auvergne sausage to horse meat and ripe cheeses.
Arènes de Lutèce
The remains of the 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre from the settlement of Lutetia (see Roman Settlement) lay buried for centuries and were only discovered in 1869 during construction of the rue Monge. The novelist Victor Hugo, concerned with the preservation of his city’s historic buildings, including Notre-Dame (see The Man Who Saved Notre-Dame), led the campaign for the restoration. The original arena would have had 35 tiers and could seat 15,000 spectators for theatrical performances and gladiator fights.
49 rue Monge, 75005
Open 9am–9pm daily (summer); 8am–5pm daily (winter)
Free
Arènes de Lutèce
Place de la Contrescarpe
This bustling square has a village community feel, with busy cafés and restaurants and groups of students from the nearby university hanging out here after dark. In medieval times it lay outside the city walls, a remnant of which still stands. Notice the memorial plaque above the butcher’s at No. 1, which marks the site of the old Pine Cone Club, a café where François Rabelais and other writers gathered in the 16th century.
St-Médard
The church at the bottom of rue Mouffetard dates back to the 9th century, when it was a parish church dedicated to St Médard, counsellor to the Merovingian kings. The present church, completed in 1655, is a mixture of Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance styles. Among the fine paintings inside is the 17th-century St Joseph Walking with the Christ Child by Francisco de Zurbarán. The churchyard was the scene of hysterical fits in the 18th century, when a cult of “convulsionnaires” sought miracle cures at the grave of a Jansenist deacon.
141 rue Mouffetard, 75005
Open 9am–noon, 2:30–7pm Tue–Sat, 9am–noon Sun
Free
Manufacture des Gobelins
This internationally renowned tapestry factory was originally a dyeing workshop, founded by the Gobelin brothers in the mid-15th century. In 1662, Louis XIV’s minister Colbert set up a royal factory here and gathered the greatest craftsmen of the day to make furnishings for the palace at Versailles. You can see the traditional weaving process on a guided tour.
42 ave des Gobelins, 75013
Metro Gobelins
Tours: 2pm and 3pm Tue–Thu (arrive 30 minutes prior), open for temporary exhibitions only noon–6pm Tue–Sun
Tickets must be bought prior to the visit at a branch of FNAC
If it’s a fine morning get an early start and enjoy a stroll in the Jardin des Plantes before the city gets truly busy. The Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle doesn’t open until 10am, but the garden is close enough to rue Mouffetard to enable you to enjoy the fabulous market, which gets going by about 8am. Don’t forget to take your eyes off the stalls every now and then to see the splendid old buildings on this medieval street. Then return to the museum and its Evolution Gallery.
From the gardens it is a short walk to the Place de la Contrescarpe. Enjoy this friendly square before walking down the rue Mouffetard for a coffee at one of its many cafés. Once revived, walk down to the bottom of the road to see the church of St-Médard on your left.
Turn left along rue Monge to the Arènes de Lutèce. A couple of minutes away is a little bistro, Le Buisson Ardent (
25 rue Jussieu01 43 54 93 02), which is ideal for lunch.
You can spend part of the afternoon at the Institut du Monde Arabe , exploring its beautiful Islamic artworks, before walking down to admire the Moorish architecture of the Mosquée de Paris . Finish the day with a mint tea at the Café de la Mosquée (
pl du Puits-de-l’Ermité01 43 31 18 14).
Dinosaur Tree
One of the trees in the Botanical Gardens is a Ginkgo biloba, which is 150 years old but the species is known to have existed in exactly the same form in the days of the dinosaurs, 125 million years ago.
Rose Garden
Although only a fairly recent addition, being planted in 1990, the beautiful roseraie has some 170 species of roses and 180 rose bushes on display. Spectacular when they are in full bloom in spring and summer.
Alpine Gardens
One of the stars of the Botanical Gardens, with more than 3,000 plants from the world’s many diverse Alpine regions. There are samples from Corsica to the Caucasus, Morocco and the Himalayas.
Sophora of Japan
Sent to Paris under the label “unknown seeds from China” by a Jesuit naturalist living in the Orient, this tree was planted in 1747, first flowered in 1777, and still flowers today.
Iris Garden
An unusual feature is this designated garden which brings together more than 400 different varieties of iris.
Dinosaur Model
Outside the Palaeontology Gallery, which is crammed with precious dinosaur skeletons, is a huge dinosaur model of a stegosaurus (see Grande Galerie de l’Evolution).
Dinosaur model
Nile Crocodile
The crocodile in the Reptile House now has a better home than he once did. This creature was found in a Paris hotel room, left behind as an unwanted pet! It has yet to reach its full size of 5 m (16.5 ft).
Young Animal House
One of the zoo’s most popular features for children is this house where young creatures, which for one reason or another cannot be looked after by their natural parents, are raised. Once they reach adulthood they are returned to their natural habitat.
Le Terroir
The kind of place locals like to keep secret, because it’s good, inexpensive and has a great atmosphere.
11 blvd Arago, 75013
Metro Gobelins
01 47 07 36 99
Closed Sat–Sun, Easter, Aug
Léna et Mimile
Those in the know avoid the touristy restaurants around rue Mouffetard to savour a meal at this ambitious bistro with a peaceful terrace.
32 rue Tournefort, 75005
01 47 07 72 47
Au Petit Marguery
One for meat lovers, with plenty of steak, veal and game on the menu. Boisterous atmosphere.
9 blvd de Port-Royal, 75013
01 43 31 58 59
Closed Sun pm
No vegetarian options
Le Buisson Ardent
This creative bistro is a romantic nighttime destination.
25 rue Jussieu, 75005
01 43 54 93 02
Closed Sun, Sat L
La Truffière
A 17th-century building, a wood fire and welcoming staff all make for a great little bistro. Naturally, the menu features truffles.
4 rue Blainville, 75005
01 46 33 29 82
Closed Sun, Mon
Restaurant Marty
An Art Deco brasserie serving delicious classics such as pan-fried foie-gras with apples, and Provençal-style scallops.
20 ave des Gobelins, 75005
Metro Gobelins
01 43 31 59 51
Chez Paul
Not the best place for vegetarians, with pot au feu, tongue and other meaty delights, but there is also fish.
22 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles, 75013
Metro Place d’Italie
01 45 89 22 11
Au Coco de Mer
Spicy Seychelles cuisine, plus a “beach hut” terrace with soft sand. Vegetarians should book ahead.
34 blvd St-Marcel, 75005
01 47 07 06 64
Closed Sun, Mon L, Aug
Chez Gladine
A lively atmosphere with waiters running around serving huge portions of Basque cuisine. Arrive early to get a table.
30 rue des Cinq Diamants, 75013
01 45 80 70 10
Open daily
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