- Cover
- Title
- Copyright
- Dedication
- Acknowledgments
- About the Author
- Contents
- Chapter 01 Essential Gear
- There Is Some Stuff Ya Kinda Have to Have
- You’re Going to Need a Sturdy Tripod
- Avoid Using the Center Column
- Extending Your Tripod’s Legs
- Hanging Weight for Sturdiness
- How to Splay the Legs
- Get Really Low Using a Platypod
- You’ll Want a Ballhead
- You’ll Need a Cable Release
- Get Your Horizon Line Straight, Method 1
- Get Your Horizon Line Straight, Method 2
- The Awesomeness of a Quick Release Plate and an L-Bracket
- In Every Landscape Photographer’s Bag: A Circular Polarizer
- You’ll Need a Graduated ND Filter
- And, You’ll Probably Want an ND Filter
- Seeing Your LCD in Bright Daylight
- You’ll Need a Small, Powerful Flashlight
- The Greatest Stuff on Earth: Gaffer’s Tape
- A Good, Cheap Lens Cloth
- Which Type of Memory Card to Use
- A Drive for Backing Up in the Field
- Extra Batteries (Especially in Cold Weather)
- A Good Backpack (but Not a Big One)
- Chapter 02 Camera Settings & Lenses
- How to Get the Right Settings for the Job
- Set Your Camera at Its Lowest Native ISO
- Shoot in Aperture Priority Mode
- Which Aperture (F-Stop) to Use
- What Shutter Speed to Use
- Shoot in RAW (Wider Dynamic Range)
- Right Now, Go Turn On Your Highlight Warning
- Is the Highlight Warning You’re Seeing Really Accurate? Well . . . No
- How to Deal with Clipped Highlights
- Which Metering Mode to Use
- When to Switch to Spot Metering
- Set Your White Balance to Cloudy
- You Have to Check Sharpness During the Shoot
- Live View Super-Sharp Focus Trick
- Which Focus Mode to Use
- Mirror Lockup
- Your Cable Release Alternative
- Wide-Angle Lens (Why and Which One)
- When to Use Ultra-Wide Lenses
- Chapter 03 Before Your Shoot
- The Art of Prepping for Success
- Do Your Research
- Start with Pinterest
- Then, Check 500px.com
- Google Images Search & Google Maps
- Location Scouting
- Great Landscapes Make Great Landscape Shots
- When to Shoot: Dawn
- When to Shoot: Dusk
- What to Shoot Other Times
- Shooting at Blue Hour
- What Time to Get There for Sunrise Shoots
- What to Do the Night Before Your Dawn Shoot
- Chapter 04 Composition
- Framing Is Everything!
- Choosing Your Shooting Position
- Should You Shoot Tall or Wide?
- Where to Focus
- Or Use Infinite Focus, So Everything’s in Focus
- Where to Put the Horizon Line
- How to Lead the Viewer’s Eye
- Drawing the Viewer’s Eye Using Negative Space
- Drawing Their Eye with Light
- Why You Need a Foreground Object
- You Need a Clear Subject
- Simplify the Scene
- Avoiding the Border Junk That Ruins Images
- Why We Need Clouds in Our Shots
- Getting Still Water Reflections
- Taking Great Shots of Mountains
- Mountains as Backgrounds
- Photographing Mountains from Down Low
- Shooting with the Sun in the Frame
- Shoot Right Before or Right After Bad Weather
- Study Other Landscape Photographers’ Work
- Chapter 05 HDR & Panos
- Ummm, It’s How to Make HDRs and Panos
- The Advantage of Panos Versus Wide-Angle
- Camera Settings for Shooting Panos
- Picking a Lens for Panos That Limits Edge Distortion
- Make Certain Your Camera Is Level
- Keeping Your Camera Centered
- Three Advantages to Shooting Them Tall
- Put Your Ballhead’s Notch on the Left for Tall Panos
- The Key to Panoramas That Stitch Together Perfectly
- The Two-Finger Trick Pano Helper
- Pano Trick for Keeping More with Less Cropping
- Be Quick About It
- Shooting Vertical Panos
- Shooting Multi-Row Panos
- How to Stitch Your Shots Into a Pano
- Which Is Best: Auto Crop or Boundary Warp?
- Stacking Your Panos to Keep Things Tidy
- Printing Panoramas
- How to Shoot HDR Images
- How to Merge Those Into a Single HDR Image
- Creating HDR Panos
- Chapter 06 Long Exposures
- The Art of Showing Movement
- It Starts with a Tripod and Cable Release
- Start with Auto Focus, Then Switch to Manual
- Turn Off IS/VR
- Where to Set Your ISO
- How Long to Keep Your Shutter Open
- How to Shoot Longer Than 30 Seconds
- Cover Your Viewfinder to Avoid Light Leak
- Why You’d Want to Lock Your Shutter Release
- You’ll Need an ND (Neutral Density) Filter
- Stack ND Filters for Even Longer Exposures
- Try Using Live View to Focus
- Take a Second Shot in Aperture Priority Mode for Sharp Detail
- Long Exposure Noise Reduction
- Making Waterfalls and Streams Look Silky
- You Want the Clouds Moving
- How to Do Light Painting
- Chapter 07 Starry Skies & The Milky Way
- Shooting the Heavens
- Your Goal: a Landscape Shot with a Starry Sky
- Avoid Light Pollution
- Check the Weather, ‘Cause You’re Gonna Need a Cloudless, Clear Sky, Too!
- The Moon Is Your Enemy
- The Milky Way Is Only Visible for a Few Months Each Year
- Where Exactly Will the Milky Way Be? There’s an App for That
- Red Light Headlamp for Night Shooting
- Hold Your Camera Steady
- You’ll Need to Shoot in Manual Mode
- Here’s the F-Stop to Use
- Here’s How Long to Set Your Shutter Speed
- When to Bump Up Your ISO
- You Need to Shoot in RAW
- Use a Very-Wide-Angle Lens
- Turn Off IS/VR
- How to Set Your Focus on Stars, Method 1
- How to Set Your Focus on Stars, Method 2
- Use Live View to Focus
- Use Focus Peaking for Super-Sharp Stars
- Lighting Your Foreground Landscape, Method 1
- Lighting Your Foreground Landscape, Method 2
- Post-Processing Milky Way Shots
- Chapter 08 Post-Processing
- Take Your Images from Flat to Fantastic!
- Opening JPEG or TIFFs in Camera Raw
- Choosing a Better Starting Place
- Set Your White Balance First
- Choosing a More Creative White Balance
- Now Set Your White and Black Points
- Setting the Exposure Slider
- Fixing Damaged Highlights (Clipping)
- Opening Up Dark Shadow Areas
- Enhancing Detail and Texture
- Making Your Colors Look More Vibrant
- Adding a Graduated ND Filter in Post
- Cropping and Straightening
- Converting to Black and White
- Two Methods for Adding Contrast
- Removing Haze from Your Scenes
- Correcting Lens Problems
- Dealing with Purple or Green Color Fringing (Chromatic Aberrations)
- Sharpening Your Landscape Images
- Creating Reflections
- Dealing with Glows
- Post-Processing Focus-Stacked Images
- Blue Sky Trick
- Using the Auto Button as a Starting Place
- Adding That “Dreamy Look”
- Cloud Replacement, Technique #1
- Cloud Replacement, Technique #2
- Removing Distracting Stuff
- Noise Reduction Just Where You Need It
- Combining Long Exposure Images
- Get Detail in the Moon by Combining Images
- Chapter 09 Even More Tips
- Really, There’s More? Yes, More!
- Rain Gear (and Why You Need It)
- How to Dry Your Wet Gear
- Small Ponds or Puddles for Reflections
- Cloudy Days—Enjoying Nature’s Softbox
- Don’t Shoot Black & White In-Camera
- Putting People in Your Landscape
- Creating Mystery with Fog and Atmospheric Effects
- De-fogging Your Lens
- The Secret to Getting an Amazing Sky
- How to Get Detail in the Moon
- Longer-Lasting Batteries in Cold Weather
- Creating Beams of Light in Forests
- Creating Sun Starbursts
- Increasing Your Depth of Field Through Focus-Stacking
- Avoiding Sensor Dust
- Changing Lenses On Location
- Your “Landscape Assistant” Phone App
- Shooting Time-Lapse Photography
- Chapter 10 Landscape Recipes
- How to Cook Up Some Tasty Looks
- You’ll Need These Two for Most of These Recipes
- Leading Lines Composition
- Mirror-Like Reflections
- Strong Foreground Elements
- Dramatic Skies
- Mountaintops
- Waterfalls
- Creeks with Silky Water
- Oceanside Sunrise
- Daytime Landscape
- Long Exposure Water
- HDR Landscape
- Mountainscape with Layers
- Simplicity
- Panoramic Images
- Low-Angle Wide
- Atmospheric Effects
- Canyon Slots
Set Your White Balance to Cloudy
I picked up this trick out on a shoot with a top pro and I’ve been using it ever since: for landscape photography, set your White Balance to Cloudy, even if it’s not cloudy. This makes your images look warmer overall, and generally, we find things that are a little warmer more pleasing, including flesh tones, but it works wonders for landscapes. Anyway, that’s what I’ve been using for at least the past 10 years. Give it a shot—I think you’ll like the results.
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