Il Palio or Palio di Siena
HORSERACING, ITALIAN STYLE
Like many contemporary rituals, the Italian traditional horse race Il Palio is steeped in ancient rites, religious mysticism, and good old-fashioned pageantry. If you get a chance to witness this spectacle, be prepared to be swept up in the colorful display of a centuries-old tradition, dating back to medieval times.
Siena’s Piazza Del Campo, the site of the Il Palio.
Held in the Tuscan city of Siena every year during the dog days of summer, the 17 contrades (or city wards) compete for 10 coveted racing spots; those riders not included in last year’s race automatically get a spot with the rest left to compete in a lottery. The month-long festival includes spectacular parades filled with colorfully costumed musicians, soldiers, and flag bearers winding their way through the city filled with residents and tourists alike.
The culminating moment of Il Palio, the actual horse race, is quite brief: barely a minute and a half. Riding bareback, the riders push their horses three times around the narrow track. The event is dangerous for all involved; although a thick layer of dirt carpets the grounds of the Piazza de Campo and a row of mattresses cushions the tightest corners, many a rider, horse, and spectator have suffered injury, even death.
The winning horse and rider, awarded a hand-painted silk banner, or palio, are ushered into the main cathedral, surrounded by the deafening cheers of their supporters. If you find yourself sympathizing with your fellow contradaioli over the rivalries between the contradas, discussing the qualities of each horse and rider, and praying to the patron saint of your “adopted” contrada, chances are you have fallen under the intoxicating spell of Siena’s Il Palio! —SBR